Features of working with dark skin: a note to the PM master

The demand for permanent makeup for cosmetic and medical purposes has recently increased, with patients of all races and skin tones coming to the procedure. It would be unfair to say that working with any one type of skin is easier. However, when performing the micropigmentation procedure on dark skin, the PM master may need to take into account some of the features of the latter, which will determine the further approach to work.

This material is dedicated to such a delicate matter as working with dark skin - an exclusive translation of an article published on the website of the international magazine for micropigmentation specialists PMU International. Magazine of Permanent Makeup (original article - link )

A bit of histology

In terms of histology, the difference between dark and light skin is as follows:

• the stratum corneum of dark skin is more layered and consists of stronger cells. It also has a large amount of random lipids. The dermis of dark skin is thicker and more compact than that of light skin. Darker skin is also characterized by increased electrical resistance. These factors determine its thickness compared to fair skin;
• At the epidermal level, dark skin contains less glutathione than light skin. Among other bodily functions, glutathione is responsible for the lack of skin color. Thus, stimulation of the epidermal systems by glutathione slows down or inhibits the formation of melanocytes;
• dark skin has more melanosomes than light skin, which is obviously the cause of increased pigmentation;
• dark skin fibroblasts are more numerous, larger, and more multinucleated compared to fair skin. These factors lead to the propensity of dark-skinned people to keloid formation.

Tasks of the master PM

The main concern is the healing process of dark skin. In response to needle wounds, the needle may develop abnormal scars or keloids, scars that rise above the surrounding skin and tend to progress over time. Before any manipulation, the PM master must find out how likely the patient is to form keloids. Although negroid skin tends to be prone to them, exceptions can be found. The easiest way to understand if a patient is at risk is to check their earlobe piercing - in the piercing area, as this is one of the main causes of keloid formation. Although scarring of this type rarely develops on the face, it can be a reason for refusing to undergo a micropigmentation procedure.

It is never an easy task for a novice master to control the depth of pigment injection , since the depth of the epidermal layer varies quite significantly in different areas, especially on the scalp. However, this process becomes even more laborious when working with dark skin due to its increased thickness. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully choose the technique of applying the pigment to prevent the removal and fading of the pigment.

Last but not least, dark skin is more prone to allergic reactions and sensitive to irritations of any kind. Therefore, some PM masters do not consider patients with Negroid skin types to be good candidates for micropigmentation. However, with the right pigments, tools, and techniques, and following post-procedure restoration guidelines, permanent makeup can still be applied to dark-skinned patients.