Skin Types: Why a Permanent Makeup Master Should Know Them
Dermatology for permanent makeup artists
When offering a client one or another type of tattoo, the master must take into account the type of skin and its elasticity. The result of the procedure directly depends on them.
When offering a client one or another type of tattoo, the master must take into account the type of skin and its elasticity. They directly depend on:
- tattoo technique;
- choice of pigments;
- duration of wearing a tattoo;
- type of tattoo after healing.
Characteristics of skin types
Depending on the natural fatty lubrication and moisture content present on the skin, the skin is conditionally divided into normal, dry, oily and combination. You should also remember about aging skin, which has its own characteristics.
normal skin
Normal skin is rare. This is a matte skin, of normal density, clean, smooth, and uniform. coloring. Normal skin without dilated vessels, peeling, blackheads (or with a minimal amount). The pores are small, barely noticeable in the central part of the face. Sebum secretion is normal, only a slight sheen in the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin) is characteristic. The owner of a normal skin type tolerates any cosmetics, soap, temperature changes well. Such skin is resistant to external stimuli, its condition does not change depending on the season or the phase of the menstrual cycle. Wrinkles appear after 35 years, normal skin ages gradually.
Dry skin
Dry skin is more common in blondes with light eyes, less often in brown-haired women and brunettes. In hot weather, it loses a lot of water, which leads to rapid dehydration. It is a thin, transparent skin, similar to parchment. May look stretched, sometimes flaky. On dry skin, there are no enlarged pores, blackheads and oily sheen, it has a matte finish. The vascular network is visible on it and the capillaries appear. Abundant growth of vellus hair is rarely observed. There are "crow's feet" and small wrinkles.
Dry skin is very sensitive, reacts to temperature changes, water, soap. Prone to allergies to cosmetics, to the formation of mimic wrinkles. Ages early, often occurs in women over 40, looks good in young people.
Oily skin
Often the cause of oily skin is puberty, hormonal failure and poor lifestyle. But if this is a hereditary condition, it will persist until the age of 35-45, and then it will turn into a combined type. It is thick and dense skin, produces a lot of sebum. Differs in the increased elasticity and elasticity. Oily skin is shiny, there are enlarged pores, acne, moles, warts. Visually, it can be compared with an orange peel. It is prone to inflammation and redness, not prone to the formation of small mimic wrinkles. Oily skin does not age for a long time, wrinkles appear late.
Combination (mixed) skin
This is the most common skin type and combines areas of oily and normal to dry skin. In the T-zone, the pores are enlarged, in other areas they are hardly noticeable, sebum secretion is increased only in the T-zone, dry areas are located on the cheeks and around the eyes. Black dots and pimples periodically appear on combination skin, especially on the eve of critical days. Combination skin is not prone to premature aging.
Age skin
Speaking of aging skin, we must understand that these are 40+ clients. The main problems faced by women of this age are insensitivity of the skin, slow processes of epidermis renewal, and a decrease in skin tone. There are wrinkles (facial and / or on the forehead, between the eyebrows) and "crow's feet" around the eyes, often there are age spots.
Age-related changes are associated with lowering of the eyebrows, the appearance of bags under the eyes, sagging skin in the cheek area, the appearance of a nasolabial fold, a decrease in the volume of the lips and a change in their color and contour.
Ideally, when the client knows what type of skin he has. Be sure to ask him about it at the preliminary consultation. If the client is in doubt, invite him to conduct a simple test at home:
- In the morning, wash your face with foam or gel cleanser. Pat dry with a towel and do not apply any cosmetics to the skin
- After two hours, apply a thin napkin to the face and make light pressure on the forehead, nose, chin and cheeks
- Rate result:
- there are no stains on the napkin - the skin is dry;
- intense greasy spots in the forehead, nose and chin - combined;
- mild spots - normal;
- oily spots in the T-zone and cheek area - oily skin
Reminder for clients before the test:
- Do not test from 11 am to 5 pm - at this time of day, metabolic processes in skin tissues are slowed down, and the result may be incorrect.
- The test results are indicative for skin up to 30 years old.
Skin Type and Permanent Makeup Techniques
For clients with oily skin , all types of hardware tattooing are suitable, manual hair tattooing (microblading) is not suitable.
It is difficult to tattoo on oily skin - due to the excess of the hypodermis, it does not absorb the pigment well, the procedure takes longer and after it several corrections are required.
Pigment fixation is hindered by regeneration processes. In oily skin, they pass faster, as you have to constantly fight infections. The pigment is perceived as a new irritant and the body tries to reject it.
Why is microblading not suitable? Since the skin is dense and thick, the pigment must be laid deeper than in normal or dry skin. In hair techniques, they work superficially. If the pigment is laid to a minimum depth in oily skin, the active work of the sebaceous glands will interfere with the strengthening of the paint - the skin will push out the pigment, and fine hairs will swim up. That is why microblading is not suitable for this type of skin.
If the client insists on the hair technique, he should definitely be warned that the success of the procedure is only 50%, and that he will have several corrections. Another option is to offer the client hair hardware equipment. But ideally still do shadow spraying. This technique is performed without clear boundaries, with a play of shades and colors. Over time, the boundaries of such a tattoo will blur imperceptibly, and the tattoo will fade evenly.
Correction of permanent makeup on oily skin is recommended every six months. To ensure the perfect appearance of the tattoo, the client is advised to refuse alcohol-containing cosmetics, use sunscreen in the warm season and not peel in the area of the tattoo.
For clients with dry skin, any permanent makeup technique is suitable. Such a tattoo will be worn for a long time.
Dry skin should be handled with care, as it is thin, "parchment". A needle can be easily penetrated into such skin, and this will provoke leakage of the pigment, which, after healing, will look like a stain. Dry skin absorbs pigment very well, and the color of the tattoo turns out to be colder and brighter than in other types of skin.
Normal and combination skin is suitable for any type of permanent makeup. It absorbs pigment well. On it, tattooing in machine technique and powder coating in manual technique heals perfectly. Microblading is also suitable for normal skin. When microblading on combination skin, individual characteristics should be taken into account - in the eyebrow area, the skin should not be too oily.
If the skin is not hardened, you can make a permanent on it using any technique. If it has become noticeably rougher, hair tattooing is not recommended.
You need to work carefully to prevent lines from passing through wrinkles. It is better to choose a lighter color of the pigment in the first procedure, and add brightness to the corrections.
Slow processes of epidermis renewal make it possible to work on aging skin without anesthesia (be sure to take into account the individual characteristics of the client) and increase the duration of the tattoo.
When choosing a tattoo technique, communicate with the client and try to find out everything about him to the smallest detail.
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