Eyebrows in hair technique: secrets from Zhenya Deniseri

Zhenya Deniseri , international permanent makeup master trainer, low-quality permanent makeup and tattoo removal master trainer, official coach of the Svyatoslav Otchenash team in Turkey, representative of the Biodermalogic MTDERM Germany brand in Turkey, founder and president of Jenya Permanent makeup ART studios and academy , speaker and jury member of permanent make-up competitions, founder of the project of assistance in social adaptation to people diagnosed with alopecia

Eyebrows in hair technique are one of the most precious works in permanent make-up. And everything matters here: from the experience and skills of the master to the quality of the apparatus and the type of skin of the client.

Eyebrows on our faces perform not only an aesthetic, but also a practical function. They are a natural barrier to the eyes from moisture, because, thanks to the hairline, drops of sweat and rain flow down the bridge of the nose and temples to a greater extent.
Our clients come for an aesthetic function, it is important for them that the eyebrows look well-groomed, symmetrical and emphasize the look. Eyebrow PM can be done in various techniques . Beautiful hair styling attracts our clients more than shading, since the latter option is associated with methods of full, too dark shading. The indication for permanent eyebrow makeup in the hair technique is alopecia (a disease in which baldness occurs (partial or complete), as well as a scar in the eyebrow area (an exception is a keloid scar or a scar in the stabilization stage).

Photos provided by the author

In order to perform the PM eyebrow hair technique without undesirable consequences, the master needs to know many nuances, which we will talk about.

“Genius is 1% inspiration and 99% perspiration,” said Thomas Edison. You cannot ignore the fact that without professional training you will go a very long way, because it is better to learn from coaches than from your mistakes.
It is impossible to achieve high-quality work on the face, bypassing the practice on artificial skin. Actions and drawing of hairs should be honed to automatism. It is also necessary to own more than one option for styling hairs, because the natural growth of an eyebrow is different for people, and this fact will already guide us in choosing the styling strokes that you will use.
Hair styling patterns

With this knowledge, you can easily determine the styling option with which you will work.

Skin types

The first thing that the master must do before starting the procedure of permanent makeup of eyebrows in the hair technique is to determine whether the client's skin type is suitable for this technique. Only dry and normal skin types are suitable for the hair technique of permanent makeup (but clients with oily skin will have to refuse the hair technique).

Let me remind you how skin types are determined.

You understand that you have a dry type if you observe the following signs:

• pinkish-yellow skin color;
• to the touch the skin is delicate, thin;
• prone to peeling;
• lack of oily sheen and inflammatory processes.

Normal skin type is characterized by the following features:

• beige-pink shade;
• to the touch soft, smooth, elastic;
• moderately matte, fresh, clean, with small pores;
• there are no red spots and inflammatory processes.

When working in the hair technique with other types of skin, you risk getting results that are the opposite of what you expect. Namely, blurry, similar to poor-quality shading, interrupted, not like hair lines.

Photos provided by the author

Machine and Consumables

Another factor affecting the quality of work is the correct choice of equipment and pigments. For permanent make-up, it is recommended to use a European-quality rotary apparatus, as we need a clear hairline. The principle of operation of rotary devices is based on the transformation of rotational motion into reciprocating motion, which ensures the absence of vibration and the movement of the module is strictly rectilinear. Induction devices have too much lateral vibration, which will not give us a perfectly traced hair.

In this method, a needle 1 from 0.2–0.3 mm is used. The thinner the skin, the thinner the needle should be.

Permanent makeup pigments must be certified in your country. The label must contain the following information:

• product brand name;

• purpose of the composition of the product;
• composition of the product;
• date of manufacture, period and storage conditions;
• volume.

It will be convenient and easy to work with water-based inorganic pigments. Organic pigments are less suitable for the permanent make-up hair technique, since we technically lay the hair deeper than shading. From this we can conclude that organic pigments containing less iron oxide red will be colder at the output than inorganic ones. In this case, there is a risk of getting gray-blue hairs as a result.

Read about the technical nuances of the hair technique in the continuation of the material.

The material was first published in Permanent No. 1(9)/2018