Secrets of gel nail modeling from a nail expert

Svetlana Zhitnik is the founder of art SV school & art SV studio, developer of original programs and technician, and also a member of the jury of our new project - Pro Beauty Battle: Nails . We invite you to take part in the new format of the competition to be inspired to conquer new heights, try your hand, demonstrate your creativity and skill level, and also win cool prizes from partners!

Today we decided to talk with Svetlana about modeling nails with gel , because who, if not her, knows all the nuances, secrets and life hacks that will help do the job cleanly, efficiently and beautifully. Read and take note of the tips!

Svetlana Zhitnik , founder of art SV school & art SV studio , developer of original programs and innovative techniques for manicure, modeling and nail design, multiple champion of Ukrainian and international championships, gold medalist of the Ukrainian Championship (2015), judge of ABC championships

Every girl dreams of long beautiful nails of the correct shape at least once in her life. And if in the past these were only dreams or short-term pleasure thanks to false nails, now, in a few hours spent in the salon, any girl can become the owner of beautiful nails of the ideal length and shape.

And this is due to the rapid development of the nail industry, which resulted in the emergence of various materials and techniques for modeling artificial nails. After all, with the help of special materials you can not only increase the length of the nail plate, correct a broken free edge, but also create a unique creative design.

Today I will introduce you to gel nail modeling, and together we will understand the intricacies and secrets of working with this material.

Types of gels for nail modeling

Modeling gels are polymers that have a thick, viscous, honey-like consistency. They are divided into single-phase, two-phase and three-phase systems.

Single-phase gels are materials that perform all the functions required for modeling artificial nails. Or rather, adhesive, sculptural and finishing. Such gels include polygels and acrygels, as well as some liquid gel systems.

Two-phase gels are materials that perform adhesive (priming) and sculptural (modeling) functions. These include medium-viscosity gels, jelly gels, transparent and translucent gels.

Three-phase gels are materials that perform only one of three functions: either adhesive, or sculpting, or finishing. Such gels include base and finishing gels, as well as dense pigmented gels (camouflage, white).

What else is needed for modeling?

For polymerization (hardening) of gels, ultraviolet light is required, which is emitted by fluorescent or LED lamps. The speed and quality of gel polymerization directly depends on the power of the lamps and the quality of the LEDs.

Sequence of procedure

Step 1. We treat the hands of the master and the client with a disinfectant. We examine for the presence of wounds, cuts, warts. We cover deep cuts or warts with a band-aid to prevent contact and infection during work.

Step 2. Prepare the nail plate for modeling. We perform a manicure, file down the entire free edge of the natural nail, and remove the gloss from the nail plate. To work with natural nails, we use a file of at least 180 grit.

Step 3. Degrease the nail plate with Gel Cleanser, wash away any remaining dust and grease.

Step 4. Apply dehydrator and primer, if necessary.

The Prime Bond dehydrator is a moisture integrator that binds water molecules and removes them from the nail plate, further drying it.

Primer Perfix, Fix It is a primer that provides additional adhesion between the polymer and the nail plate.

Step 5. Apply a thin layer of base gel or gel from a two-phase system to the entire nail plate, additionally priming it. We polymerize in a lamp.

Step 6. Set the template depending on the desired length and shape.

Step 7. Lay out the sculpture layer of gel. We polymerize in a lamp.

Step 8. We file down the artificial structure, bringing it to perfection.

Step 9. Remove any remaining dust and cover with finishing gel.

Benefits of gel nail modeling

Modeling artificial nails is a procedure that gives them the ideal desired length and geometric shape. Professional nail modeling has many advantages compared to conventional gel polish. In this case, the nails are strong, smooth, and equally modeled. Moreover, the coating protects the natural nail plate from various types of exposure to adverse external factors, hides the imperfections of natural nails (if there are unevenness, redness, etc.), and also serves as the basis for design - from varnish coating with artistic painting to three-dimensional competition entries .

Artificial nails, like natural ones, require care - corrections must be made every 3-4 weeks, since all the highest points and parallels shift as natural nails grow. And contrary to all the rumors, after removing the artificial ones, natural nails have all the same characteristics as before the procedure, and in some cases they even become even.