The art of runway makeup: main features and nuances

Alesya Kuzmenok, makeup artist-stylist, multiple winner of the Ukrainian Makeup Championship with experience working on TV channels and UFW

What is runway makeup?

Runway makeup is a special type of makeup art, the embodiment of the latest trends and the most fashionable trends in the fashion world. It can be natural or catchy, gentle or fatal, restrained or bright, it all depends on the idea of the collection and the vision of the stylist or designer.

Let's understand the basic idea behind runway makeup. The purpose of ordinary makeup is to hide flaws and emphasize the natural advantages of appearance, but in the runway version it is important to convey to the viewer the character, style and mood of the designer, his vision of fashion. This kind of makeup is designed to create emotion, sensations and is an integral part of the collection on display. Unity of style and handwriting are the main features of runway makeup. Such makeup should not concentrate attention on the model’s face, but must be an additional attribute, an accessory to the artistic image. And a team of professionals should always work on this image - a designer, a makeup artist, a hairdresser and, of course, the model who presents this catwalk makeup.

Features of runway makeup

Runway makeup has its own characteristics. It must be clearly visible to all spectators, stable (especially under bright spotlights), match the lighting and be suitable for the time of year and weather conditions, since a collection show, for example, can be held on an open podium.

The cosmetics with which it is performed must be professional and with the maximum degree of fixation. When designing a look, runway makeup needs to be assessed by taking two steps away from the model and checking whether it looks as intended from a distance.

Now let's talk in more detail about the technique of performing runway makeup and the products that should be used.

About tone

Like any other makeup, runway makeup starts with applying a good tone. The main assistants in its creation:

• A foundation that suits your skin tone, possibly with a reflective effect. The foundation for the face is carefully selected in color and texture. Thanks to it, the skin should look healthy and natural, not too oily and not too matte, flawless in any, even the brightest, lighting.
• A high-quality concealer that helps even out skin tone and eliminate all imperfections.
• Loose powder that applies thinner and more accurately than regular powder.

About the eyes

Depending on the makeup idea, eyes can be an accent or complement bright and clearly defined lips. Black predominates in the color palette; it is indispensable if it is necessary to highlight the model’s eyes.

All types of eyeliners and winged eyeliners are very relevant and typical for runway makeup, allowing you to give expressiveness to your look.

Eye makeup smoky eyes is still relevant. Instead of the usual black and gray shadows, you can safely use bright colors and shades - turquoise, bluish-gray, lilac, brown, green. A soft colored pencil is also great for lining the eye, especially if you use creamy shadows with shading on top.

About lips

When creating catwalk looks in a classic style, makeup is often used with an emphasis on the lips. Matte lipstick is chosen in fiery red, pink, burgundy, dark red, plum shades. Deep tones look better on the lips when the outline is left vague. If lip pencil is used, it should match the lipstick.

Makeup artists recommend using long-lasting lipsticks not in sticks, but in jars; they have a more pleasant texture. You can blend the lipstick with a brush or your fingers to achieve the desired effect. It is also advisable to blot your lips with a napkin to remove excess lipstick.

About details

Today, the elements of even rich runway makeup are becoming lighter and many of its details are increasingly applicable in everyday life. For example, for girls with pale skin, bright lips or smoky eyes, like at European fashion shows, are suitable for cocktail makeup. However, you need to remember that with regular makeup, such professional face toning with concealer and special effects is not required. All details are more simplified and minimalistic.

About tastes

In general, my favorite beauty product is a clear gloss, it can be used on lips, eyelids, even cheeks to give them a subtle shimmer. I also like the makeup base, which allows the skin to look as if the face was not tinted at all. Creamyblush and shadows always give a feeling of freshness and glow from within, they are very often used for runway makeup. On top they can be fixed with crumbly textures of shimmering blush and shadows.

And most importantly, always remember that the main task of a professional makeup artist when performing runway makeup is to convey the idea and style of the designer, while combining maximum naturalness plus bold expressiveness.

The article was first published in Makeup&YOU Professional magazine.