Runway makeup: main rules, nuances and tips for beginners

In a previous article, Larisa shared her own experience of working at the New York Fashion Week show and explained the difference between working as a makeup artist at large shows and small intimate events. In this article, we’ll talk in more detail about the features of fashion makeup, important nuances, durability and backstage work with exposed areas of the body.

Larisa Larina , professional makeup artist in New York with over 16 years of experience, teacher, founder of the LARINA MAKEUP cosmetics brand, member of the Pat McGrath makeup team

What is important to consider when doing runway makeup?

It is important to follow the rules that were announced to you before starting work, because each show will have its own tricks. In addition, each team has its own established work characteristics. For example, Pat McGrath has her own nuances of working with leather. If there are no special wishes from the designer, at each show we work according to certain rules.

At fashion shows, you need to listen to what the key makeup artist is telling you. There is no need to reinvent the wheel and make your own adjustments - no one likes this. When you work on big shows as part of a team, it's not about you as a master. There is no need to be an upstart and show what great equipment you have. In this case, it is important to do your work quickly, efficiently, talk less and not create problems for anyone. And be ready to quickly provide help if needed.

Should makeup for a fashion show be long-lasting?

Runway makeup is not long-lasting, because durability is achieved with the help of dense textures, and now the trend is lightness, transparency, and naturalness. I witnessed a case where a makeup artist was asked to remove the makeup she had done and transfer the model to another artist because the layer of foundation on her face was too thick.

Makeup is corrected 100 times at each stage. Immediately before entering the catwalk, models line up with makeup artists standing next to them. Even a few seconds before leaving, they make their own adjustments: someone will fix the concealer that has rolled off, someone will comb their eyebrows, someone will add highlighter.

Does a makeup artist need to work with exposed areas of the body?

Yes, open areas of the body definitely need to be worked out. First we do facial makeup, then the models get dressed, and only after that the body is worked on: arms, legs, neck, ankles, décolleté and other areas not covered by clothes.

If a girl has tattoos, they need to be painted over. It is also necessary to disguise all pimples, redness and any other problem areas. Before going on the catwalk on the backstage, makeup artists sometimes have to literally crawl on their knees to make the girls’ skin look perfect.

What products are needed for this?

To make your skin look beautiful, you need to treat it with lotion. It is important to choose loose textures so that the product can be quickly applied, shaded and so that it does not leave stains on the skin.

What advice can you give to a makeup artist who will be working on makeup for a fashion show for the first time?

First, study the list of products necessary for a makeup artist to work at a fashion show. We're not talking about sparkles, some unusual textures or substrates - it's important to have a good basic set. If you need something special to do your makeup, these products will be given to you in the dressing room.

Second, open your eyes and ears and close your mouth. You need to carefully watch and listen to what they want from you, and try to repeat as much as possible what is required of you. If suddenly someone doesn’t like the result of your work and you are asked to redo something, there is no need to be hysterical and show emotions. This is normal practice, everything is fine. Especially if this is your first time working in a team.