From personal experience: features of the work of a makeup artist at the largest fashion shows

Larisa Larina , professional makeup artist in New York with over 16 years of experience, teacher, founder of the LARINA MAKEUP cosmetics brand, member of the Pat McGrath makeup team

What is Fashion Week? It's not just certain fashion shows. This is Fashion Week, during which many different events take place, including parties and receptions.

It is important to understand that fashion shows are different. There are top designers whom we all know well. From year to year they organize shows in Paris, Milan, London and New York. For example, Marc Jacobs and Anna Sui hold their shows every season of New York Fashion Week.

But in addition to well-known brands, large-scale Fashion Weeks also host shows for young designers and amateurs - and they also need makeup artists. Such fashion shows look completely different. They can be intimate and take place in small restaurants or clubs, or consist of several shows and represent some kind of youth organization. That is, if a makeup artist says that he worked, for example, at Fashion Week in New York, this does not always mean that he did makeup for brands of the level you are thinking about.

I can say with confidence that these are completely different things, because I worked at both large shows and intimate ones. For the last few seasons I have been working at the most famous fashion shows, but when I first arrived in New York, I often attended shows of emerging designers. But this is also a useful experience, and what’s interesting is that sometimes such events are paid even better than top shows.

In this article we will talk exclusively about shows of famous fashion brands, which are well organized and where everything is thought out to the smallest detail so that the answers are as accurate and useful as possible.

What is the main purpose of runway makeup?

The main goal of runway makeup is to convey the designer’s idea and concept and enhance the image with the help of makeup. Some designers, on the contrary, love the most natural and natural makeup, so sometimes we don’t even paint the models’ eyelashes. In this case, the main goal is not to interrupt the intended image with makeup. An example of such a brand is The Row, founded by the Olsen sisters. They have quite conservative images, so makeup should be almost invisible.

What is the process of collaboration between makeup artists and a designer from discussion of makeup to implementation?

Typically, there is one key makeup artist at the show who consults with the couturier. I work in Pat McGrath’s team, and she is the key makeup artist and, together with her assistants, offers her makeup ideas and options that will bring the designer’s idea to life.

When the makeup is thought out and all the details are developed, it is performed on several models participating in the show. The photographer takes photos of test makeup from different angles, then the images are printed and approved by the designer. On the day of the show, the photos are hung on the mirrors - they serve as a guide for all the artists.

It happens that a makeup test is performed the night before the show. I remember how the makeup test for the Marc Jacobs show last season was completed at six in the morning, despite the fact that we started working with the models at 9-10 in the morning. The schedule may change, so you must always keep your finger on the pulse and be ready to quickly respond to changing circumstances.

Important point: at large shows it is prohibited to take photos or videos from the backstage. This is indicated by the signs that are placed everywhere there. But at the shows of emerging designers, you can most often do whatever you want.

What is the work process for makeup artists on the day of the show?

The chief assistant does a makeup demonstration and explains key points before starting work. This can be either a complete make-up from A to Z, if there are many newcomers in the team of make-up artists, or a demonstration of the most important elements, for example, arrows or smoky eyes. Also at this moment it is said what products need to be used. For example, we apply brown mascara to all fair-haired girls, and black mascara to all dark girls, which areas we apply highlighter to and how we shape the eyebrows.

Then the craftsmen go to their workplaces and lay out their tools and cosmetics. When the manager brings a model (all major shows have managers), the makeup artist works on her makeup and at the end shows the result to the main assistant or key makeup artist. Makeup may be approved immediately or you may be asked to modify something.

How important is it to work quickly backstage?

Working quickly is always important because you don't know what situation might happen. But as a rule, at large shows everything is well organized (there are even make-up artists on hand), and the artist is given about two hours to apply makeup to one model and still have time to chat with her. But force majeure can always happen, for example, the model is late, and then you need to work as quickly as possible.

How to achieve the required speed when creating makeup without losing quality?

To achieve the required speed, you need to constantly train, not get hung up and, if necessary, cut off extra steps. More often than not, newbies think a lot and it also takes time. Experienced professionals already have answers to all questions and the work has been brought to automaticity.

And yet, what are the main differences between the work of a makeup artist at large shows of legendary designers and at small shows?

For comparison, I’ll tell you about my experience working at one of these amateur shows. Before the show, they sent me wishes by mail about what the models' makeup should be like. On the day of the event, the idea changed several times, and I had to do makeup and hairstyles for 20 girls! I started working at six in the morning and finished at 11 at night.

At such events there is often no proper organization of the work of all participants in the process and sometimes complete chaos reigns. During the whole day of continuous work, you may not even be fed once. At major shows, you will always be taken care of: there is always catering, because top models, famous hairdressers and makeup artists work on the site. And even you feel like a star in these working conditions!

In our next article, Larisa Larina will tell you what is important to consider when creating makeup at fashion shows, what trends need to be followed in 2020, and how to properly work with exposed areas of the body on the backstage.