Lifting face makeup: how to work with the skin correctly?

Elena Yudina, makeup artist-stylist, international class master, world champion in makeup, certified judge of Ukraine and international competitions, trainer of all-Ukrainian international competitions in makeup and body art, founder of the author's school of makeup and style VISART Academy

Doing makeup is a magical act. Decorating, giving charm and charm, raising self-esteem, improving mood and, finally, making you fall in love. But does makeup always decorate? Are you happy? Rejuvenates? Indeed, makeup can work wonders - remove several years, but it can also add age. Young girls often put on makeup, wanting to appear older, while mature women are trying to find the answer to the exact opposite question: how to look younger?

You can't wear the same makeup your whole life. And the point is not at all that fashion trends are changing. The face may change, but the desire to look beautiful and young remains. It is possible if you learn the simple rules of anti-aging makeup. I’ll reveal some secrets and tell you which techniques help you look younger, and what makes your clients look older. Avoid the following mistakes and follow the rules of lifting makeup.

Skin preparation

Proper and regular skin care is the best thing you can do for it. The sooner girls begin to understand this, the greater the chance, despite genetics (which may not always be favorable), to look young for as long as possible. Regular high-quality cleansing of the skin, properly selected moisturizing and nourishing creams, protecting the skin from exposure to aggressive environments - these rules are very simple and not always expensive. Proper nutrition, good sleep, quality rest, sports, fresh air and a positive attitude will also give you a head start for several years, perhaps more than a dozen. At the same time, the correct selection of cosmetics plays an important role in the appearance of every woman.

Makeup bases

Before directly applying the toning product, it is desirable and even preferable to use a special makeup base - moisturizing, with a slight radiance, with a smoothing or even out effect on the skin, and, if necessary, mattifying, especially in the T-zone. This base not only cares for the skin, but also evens out its texture, gives it a moist glow, and also ensures the durability of the makeup.

For a rejuvenating effect, you can choose a foundation slightly lighter than your skin color - this will make your face look more fresh. But just don't overdo it! A face that is too bleached looks puffy. Remember that, oxidizing in air, the foundation darkens a little 20-30 minutes after application. If the tone is too dark, then the face, although it looks thinner and more toned, looks rough, wrinkles are emphasized - this certainly does not make you look younger. Mixing tone and makeup base is a very successful combination! Since each of these products brings its best properties to makeup: moisturizing, glowing effect from within and evening out the complexion and skin structure.

Foundations and powder

With age, facial skin becomes dull and pigment spots appear on it - the need to use foundation is obvious. However, powder is the worst choice if you want makeup that will make you look younger. Even the smallest particles of powder will settle in wrinkles and only emphasize them. You can apply powder, but only to areas that are shiny (for example, the T-zone), as well as to areas that need to be prepared for the application of powdered textures (for example, blush or eye shadow).

In addition, we understand that powder is different from powder. The latest developments of cosmetic companies - mineral powders, HD - are not only completely invisible on the face, but also do not dry out the skin due to the presence of silk, mineral silicas and a minimal amount or complete absence of “outdated” talcs, which dry the skin by absorbing moisture and sebum .

Thick foundation is also not the best solution: it is difficult to achieve the effect of freshness when there is an impenetrable mask on your face. To even out your clients’ complexion, choose liquid and weightless foundations (they can be either cream or liquid). If there are minimal problems on the face that need to be masked, a moisturizer with a tinting effect will be sufficient. Ideally, the foundation you choose also promises a natural radiance or glow effect through the use of reflective particles, because the distinctive feature of young, well-hydrated skin is a natural radiance that comes from within. But mature skin often suffers from a lack of moisture, especially during menopause, when dryness is caused by estrogen deficiency, so moisturize, moisturize, and moisturize again in any convenient way.

Black and white correction

Working with the skin is one of the most important stages of lifting makeup, so do not forget about light and shadow correction and camouflage, that is, masking larger imperfections on the skin. It is performed using cream correctors, but not very dense in texture.

• Pigment spots will be hidden with a concealer of a lighter color than your base skin tone.
• A corrector with a greenish tint will remove unwanted redness.
• If the face has an unpleasant yellowish tint, then a small amount of lilac product will make the complexion more fresh and pleasant (according to the laws of color, lilac-violet color neutralizes yellowness).
• If there are individual spots or pimples on the face, then you need to work with a small, very soft brush - applying the corrective product with spreading, rather than rubbing movements.
• Lightening areas of the face that require light correction (for example, nasolabial depressions, circles under the eyes, wrinkles at the corners of the mouth, vertical wrinkles between the eyebrows) is best done using liquid or light cream products - a light tone or a reflective concealer.
• Shadow correction of the face is also very important, as it helps to hide not only excess volume, but also to create a lifting effect. Here you can already use both cream correctors (for dry and normal skin) and powdered ones, since the shadow correction does not affect areas with an accumulation of wrinkles - mainly the oval of the face, as well as protruding parts, for example, a wide nose or an elongated chin, or wide temporal areas, too plump cheeks (in overweight women).

Important nuance! Dark, pronounced shades of contouring on the cheekbones make the face thinner, but add age. This technique can be used by women with a round face shape, but carefully, carefully choosing a shade for the “natural” hollow and carefully blending the product used.

Apply blush

A lightsoft blush is the best choice for refreshing and rejuvenating the face. Pinkish-apricot, peach shades, depending on your skin color type, will give you the desired result. Be careful with cool pink and purple-pink blushes! Alas, they are getting old.

To get a better feel for the rules for applying blush, look at how young girls look: their cheeks are plump and voluminous. With age, the plumpness decreases, the cheeks become smoother, and their volume goes down towards the contour of the face. By creating volume in the cheeks, as well as volume in the cheekbones (which is what plastic surgeons and cosmetologists do when introducing fillers) with the help of a highlighter, we rejuvenate our clients – that’s what they come to us for!

Don't forget to put a drop of reflective product on your upper lip. This way you will not only hide possible wrinkles, but also add volume to the upper lip and above it, which also rejuvenates. It is known that with age, lips become compressed, thinner, lose volume and sexual swelling. In addition, the distance from the nose to the lip increases, the nose becomes slightly sharper and larger. It’s good if you know how to work with your nose, you know how to narrow and shorten it. Having properly treated your face with the help of correctors and highlighters, you will get a fresh and rejuvenated face, as well as a good mood for your client!