Whitening agents: active components

Peculiarities of the use of such means in European countries

2016-04-08

Most often, clients believe that in order to solve the problems of hyperpigmentation that they have encountered, it is necessary to go to extreme measures - so to speak, to overcome evil with evil. However, this is not entirely true. How do whitening agents work, what depigmenting ingredients are used in them?

Oleksandra Shokh, cosmetologist, make-up artist, wellness trainer, marketing and communications specialist (Germany)

For some time, Europe has been experiencing a period of grand return to aristocratic paleness. Dark age spots, large pores and pigmentation disorders prevent the skin from being given the fashionable "porcelain" look. That is why brightening cosmetics, so-called whitening products, are popular products not only in Asian countries. High-tech whitening products are capable of more than just whitening. In addition to the main effect, they provide effective support in the fight against visible signs of skin aging.

Changes in skin color

The color of the skin and its ability to tan depend on the amount of melanin contained in it - the natural pigment of the skin. Melanin to some extent protects cell nuclei from the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays by absorbing sunlight. The more melanin produced, the darker the skin. Melanin is produced by melanocytes. These special cells are located in the basal layer of the epidermis of the skin.

Currently, whitening products are available in the form of creams, lotions or concentrates. The active components of depigmenting agents are diverse, differ in effectiveness and have different origins.

To reduce melanin production, they usually use:

substances that reversibly inhibit melanin synthesis in melanocytes (hydroquinone, azelaic acid);
tyrosinase enzyme inhibitors (arbutin, kojic acid);
derivatives of ascorbic acid (magnesium ascorbyl-2-phosphate).

Full version of the access article in Ukrainian