Probiotics and prebiotics in cosmetics

Author: Yulia Gagarina, chemical technologist, cosmetologist, leading specialist in the development of new products at Ecolife (Kiev)

As above, so below

From the moment the colossal role of normal intestinal microflora (bifidobacteria, lactobacilli and E. coli) in maintaining human health was revealed (remember that beneficial bacteria provide antiallergic protection, actively participate in the enzymatic process, promote normal bowel movements, and take part in the immune response and metabolism), the direction of creating medicines and biologically active food additives (BAA) aimed at maintaining and restoring normal intestinal microflora began to develop. But the use of probiotics and prebiotics did not stop with nutraceuticals - advanced cosmetology has also become very interested in their use.

The idea of using prebiotics and probiotics in cosmetology is natural and simple. Since numerous studies have confirmed that live microorganisms (probiotics) are “capable of providing beneficial effects on health” (World Health Organization definition) due to the balancing effect of bacterial flora at the intestinal level, it was decided that dermatological problems caused by “microbiological disorders” could also be addressed approach from the standpoint of solving intestinal problems. At the same time, it is obviously worth using the term “dysbiosis” not only in relation to the intestines, but also when talking about skin problems.

There are different types of probiotics , but the most common strains of microorganisms are Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium, which make up up to 90% of the intestinal microflora (de Vrese, 2008; Kromhout van Capelle, I. 2008).

Until now, probiotics have been used to treat the gastrointestinal tract. But relatively recently, some Internet sites (for example, www.verablo.eu) began to popularize the idea of the positive effect of probiotics on the skin in the treatment of acne, allergies and eczema. However, most scientific publications also talk about the positive effect of internal probiotics on the condition of the skin. According to publications, different types of probiotics are effective for solving various skin problems (Table 1).

Table 1. Probiotic strains that have been studied for beneficial effects in the treatment of various types of diseases

A natural question arises: why are probiotics not added to cosmetic preparations? Yes, because the cream a priori should not contain any microorganisms, otherwise it will quickly deteriorate (for example, become moldy). To prevent this from happening, preservatives are added to the cream. And those, without discerning whether a bacterium is good or bad, “kill” everything.

Attempts are being made to isolate probiotics in special capsules and then introduce them into creams, but the effectiveness and survival of probiotics is very limited in time.

Such questions do not arise with prebiotics - these are not living organisms, but “food” for them, so the cosmetic industry can widely use them. Currently, prebiotics in the strict sense of the word are considered to be fructooligosaccharides and galactooligosaccharides. According to Roberfroid MB (2007), inulin (see sidebar) and trans-galactooligosaccharides best meet these criteria.

However, there is also a large class of substances that have prebiotic activity, not prebiotics. These are considered:

• gluco-oligosaccharides;
• isomaltooligosaccharides;
• lactosucrose;
• polydextrose;
• co-oligosaccharides;
• xylooligosaccharides;
• oligodextrans;
• gluconic acid;
• gentiooligosaccharides;
• pectin oligosaccharides;
• mannanoligosaccharides;
• lactose;
• glutamine;
• hemicellulose-rich substrates;
• indigestible fiber and its derivatives;
• melibiose oligosaccharides (galactose + glucose);
• lactoferrin derivatives and N-acetylchitooligosaccharides;
• arabinoxylan;
• agarooligosaccharides;
• cyclodextrins;
• raffinose;
• stachyosis and others.

Prebiotics and acne

In the last three years, there has been enormous interest in the practical use of prebiotics, primarily for the care of problem skin. Studies were carried out with prebiotics obtained from different plant species.

Ginseng, black currant and pine

Articles by Bockmul (2006), Krutmann (2009), Simmering and Breves (2009), Korting, Borelli & Schöllmann (2010) examined the effectiveness of topical application of prebiotics obtained from extracts of ginseng, black currant and pine.

The Bockmul study involved 11 acne patients who applied a herbal prebiotic preparation to their skin twice a day. After three weeks of use, a significant inhibition of the growth of propionic bacteria was observed, while the rest of the skin microflora remained virtually unchanged.

In the work of Simmering et al. (2009), the sample was already increased: 30 people with acne tested the products, and they also showed positive treatment dynamics.

Probiotics and propionic bacteria

In a study by Al-Ghazzewi & Tester (2009), two sets of in vitro experiments were conducted. In the first series of experiments, the effect of probiotics on the growth of propionic bacteria was studied. The second series of experiments examined the effectiveness of suppressing the growth of propionic bacteria under conditions of a combination of probiotics (L. casei, L. acidophilis, L. Plantarum, L. Gasserian, Lactococcus lactis) and a prebiotic substance - glucommann hydrolyzate (GMH), obtained from Asian mannan tubers. A number of authors (Gibson, 2005) suggest that small amounts of lactobacilli (as a transit microflora) and veillonella (as a saprophytic microflora) present on the skin ferment prebiotics and lower the pH level (due to the production of lactic acid), and also produce natural antibiotics , which has a positive effect on problem skin.

Jerusalem artichoke inulins

In the work of Ukrainian researchers from Elf Laboratory, the effect of Jerusalem artichoke inulins on problem skin was studied. The study involved 11 people with acne who applied a prebiotic cream twice daily and used special cleansers with a low pH (4.8–5.2) and mild surfactants derived from rice and wheat. They were also recommended to use probiotics internally (containing a complex of bifidobacteria and lactobacilli) and add foods rich in dietary fiber to their diet. After 2 weeks of using this complex, 10 people experienced a significant reduction in inflammatory elements on the skin (up to 40%) (see photo).

Summary

I would really like to attach the label “panacea” to pro- and prebiotics, but it is impossible. The same prebiotic substances can be an ideal “menu” for both normal flora and pathogenic microorganisms. After all, saccharides are an ideal environment for the growth of a huge “microbial zoo”. Therefore, it is very important, when setting a “rich table” for microorganisms with prebiotics on the menu, to create such conditions so that only “good” microorganisms “approach the table”. And for this you need an acidic environment (below pH 5.5), which is modeled by AHA acids and lactic acid hydrolysates.

It is also advisable (to be on the safe side) to introduce components that can selectively inhibit the growth of pathogenic and opportunistic microflora. For example, in the work of Ukrainian researchers, cosmetic products, in addition to inulins, contained a complex of fruit acids and a specific component Acnacidol®, which inhibits the growth of only propionic bacteria, and in a study by German scientists, prebiotics of ginseng, black currant and pine were introduced into cosmetic cream with a pH below 5.

The study of the effects of pro- and prebiotics on the skin is just beginning. Significant space is opening up for studying them in the context of caring for sensitive skin and accelerating the treatment of fungal skin diseases, wound healing, etc. The topic is open - so we will wait for new research.

Source: Les Nouvelles Esthetiques Ukraine, No. 4 (68), 2011, pp. 90-92