Facial masks in the practice of a cosmetologist

Karin Otten, cosmetologist, makeup artist and eurythmy specialist, specialist in marine cosmetology, chief cosmetologist at Biomaris (Germany)

Like many cosmetic products, the mask was originally used for religious purposes. There is evidence that the Egyptians were the first to use masks for skin care. Nowadays, in beauty salons, masks are performed, as a rule, in combination with hygienic cleansing of the facial skin, plastic or hygienic massage. The procedure time is approximately 30 minutes.

Today in cosmetology there are the concepts of “mask” and “mask-wrap” - highly effective and favorite care techniques that involve applying or applying a paste-like mass to the face. Masks and wrap masks are designed primarily to cleanse the skin: they tighten pores and remove dead skin scales from the skin surface. In addition, they have an anti-inflammatory and tonic effect and slow down the appearance of wrinkles. Masks and mask-wraps supply the skin with biological nutrients that activate skin metabolism. By adhering hermetically to the skin and thereby preventing air from entering, masks stimulate blood circulation in the skin.

Masks and wraps

Often no distinction is made between the concepts of “mask” and “mask-wrap”. However, there is a certain difference between them.

Thus, the wrap mask has the following features:

• the active mass is applied to the skin warm; her warmth must be maintained by covering her face with a towel;
• a porous film forms on the skin, allowing air to pass through, which is then washed off with warm water;
• The main goal is to deliver into the skin, together with applied fats and plant extracts, substances necessary for the skin.

In addition, the wrap mask affects the deeper layers of the skin, and therefore its effect on the skin is more effective than that of a regular mask.

Temperature, layer thickness and exposure time play a significant role in the successful use of a mask. In particular, heat activates processes in the skin, cold has a calming effect, and a thick layer reduces the effectiveness of the mask

Unlike a wrap mask, a regular mask is applied cold . Once dry, it forms an airtight layer on the skin surface. The mask hardens and can be removed from the skin by pulling it off (or washed off with warm water). When you remove the mask by pulling, clogged skin pores open, resulting in much smoother skin. At the same time, the mask causes an increase in metabolism, the sweat glands begin to secrete sweat more intensely, and the activity of the sebaceous glands is activated. Due to the increase in skin tone, dead epidermal cells are rejected, and young cells move upward to the skin surface. After removing the mask, the skin looks soft and rejuvenated.

When using masks and mask wraps, the specialist must be aware of this basic principle in order to select forms of application in accordance with the needs of the client.

Main Components

There are two main forms of wrap masks:

• powder;
• creamy.

Most often, masks-wraps with powder particles are found in powder form. They gently remove excess fat and have a special suction and cooling effect. Both organic and inorganic substances are used as powder particles. Organic substances are carbohydrates or various starches, their advantage is good cooling. Inorganic substances, such as lime, medicinal and peat mud, have a strong dehydrating effect. If wrap masks are used for the purpose of stimulation, essential oils are added to them. Creamy wrap masks usually come in the form of emulsions or gels based on protein and high-quality fats, and are especially suitable for dry skin.

Since regular masks are mostly airtight, they must contain essential ingredients that harden on the skin. Various fats and oils, as well as cellulose and gelatin, are suitable for this. The basis of the mask is made up of active substances that can penetrate deeply into well-prepared skin during the period of exposure.

It is important to remember that the effectiveness of a mask depends not only on its composition, but also on the actions of the cosmetologist, which can either increase or decrease it.

Wide range of effects

Temperature, layer thickness and exposure time play a significant role in the successful use of a mask. In particular, heat activates processes in the skin, cold has a calming effect, and a thick layer reduces the effectiveness of the mask. The duration of exposure depends on the composition of the product and ranges from 15 to 40 minutes. Using a mask can achieve different results. It can have a soothing, healing, whitening, astringent, warming, regenerating, moisturizing, softening, degreasing, dehydrating, smoothing, impregnating or stimulating effect. These effects can be achieved individually or in combination.

If you are using a nourishing mask , apply it to the skin of your neck and décolleté. When using a mask with a degreasing or suction effect, the product is applied only to those areas where it is necessary. Purifying masks remove dead skin, open clogged pores and regulate excess sebum production. Moisturizing masks are great for any skin condition and any age category. Foam masks are quickly and completely absorbed into the skin, they do not need to be washed off and they moisturize it quite well.

If you want to use special ingredients , choose paraffin masks. They do not contain any active ingredients; they form an airtight layer on the skin, improving microcirculation. The substance contained in the cream or ampoule penetrates deeply into the skin, thereby achieving a targeted, strong effect.

For any cosmetologist, it should be a self-evident fact that before using a regular mask or wrap mask, it is necessary to thoroughly cleanse the skin. Without cleansing, the effect of the mask is zero. If the skin is very dry or prone to flaking, you can also perform a light peeling. Before applying the mask, the skin must be well warmed with a damp and warm compress - the pores will open and the effectiveness of the procedure will increase significantly.

Types of masks

Depending on the type of base, masks are divided into the following main groups:

• gel-like;
• creamy;
• liquid;
• pasty with fillers;
• wax;
• powder;
• thermoplastic;
• silicone;
• biomatrices;
• parfait.

Gel masks are usually used for oily skin. In addition, they are good if it is necessary to increase the concentration of vegetable and essential oils in the recipe. They perfectly moisturize the skin, tighten pores and relieve inflammation.

Creamy masks come in both drying and non-drying types. The former absorb dirt, cleanse and tighten pores, lightly whiten, model the oval of the face, tone and tighten the skin, improve lymphatic drainage and blood circulation, and rejuvenate. The latter often act as nourishing masks.

Liquid masks are based on gelatin, egg white and cellulose. When dry, they form a film on the face that compresses the skin and does not allow water to pass through, thereby increasing the temperature of the skin and improving blood circulation in the small vessels of the dermis. A variety of liquid masks are also cream-scrubs containing small abrasive particles, thanks to which, by lightly massaging the face, you can cleanse the skin of dead cells of the stratum corneum.

Paste mask fillers are usually kaolin, bentonite, white clay, alum, starch, talc or mud. They are applied with a brush, spatula or by hand and left for 15 minutes. In most cases, the mask dries on the face and is removed as an impression. It deeply cleanses and tightens the skin. If a high concentration of fatty composition is added to a paste mask, then it also has a nourishing effect, and if colloids and moisturizers are used, then, accordingly, it has a moisturizing effect.

Wax masks are made from wax, paraffin and lanolin. The preparations are melted, applied to the face and left until hardened. As a result of the action of the product, the vessels of the superficial plexus of the dermis narrow, and the deep microvessels expand. Blood circulation improves, the skin is cleansed, the nutrients of ampoule preparations or nourishing creams, which are applied under a wax mask, easily penetrate through the open pores into the epidermis and dermis. However, wax masks cannot be used for acne, dilated capillaries, eczema and other skin problems.

Modeling (plasticizing) masks are very popular and are used very widely. The powder mixture is diluted with water or fruit lotion until creamy and applied in a thick layer to the skin. Under such a mask, the necessary preparations are applied (an ampoule containing enzymes, a nourishing cream, vitamins, oxygen). 2-3 minutes after application, the mask dries, turning into a dense film, which is removed like an impression. The elasticity of aging skin increases, the oval of the face is modeled.

Powder masks can have a thermal effect if they are made from gypsum, which releases heat when mixed with water. Such masks are called thermoactive or thermoplastic. As a rule, another mask is applied under this mask, with the corresponding active substances, which are absorbed thanks to the gentle heat. A gauze “lining” must be placed under the thermoactive mask so as not to remove the “plaster cast” along with the eyebrows and eyelashes.

Thermoplastic masks are used not only for modeling facial contours, but also for the body. The main components of such masks are mud, silt, algae, and Dead Sea salts. These components perfectly break down fats in areas with cellulite, saturate the skin with healing sea ions, normalize water and electrolyte balance, and have not only a rejuvenating, but also a calming and restorative effect on the entire body.

Among powder masks, the most popular are silicone-based masks. They differ from ordinary powder ones in that they contain a wide range of active additives (vitamins, fruit extracts, berries, etc.). Silicone masks are easy to remove, since they do not form a plaster film on the surface of the skin, but a soft “rubber band”. In addition, silicone masks have a strong moisturizing effect and smooth out wrinkles.

Biomatrices are a dense substance, like a sheet of paper, from which a piece of the required size is cut, applied to the face and moistened with water. After a minute, it turns into a gel-like mass, which, depending on the active additives, has one or another effect. Typically, biomatrices are created on the basis of algae and other marine products. They are especially beneficial for dry, aging, dehydrated skin.

The consistency of the parfait mask is reminiscent of fruits whipped into a delicate mousse. Before applying the drug to the face, it is passed through a special can (pulvarex), as a result of which the mass turns into a microemulsion, is saturated with oxygen and literally forms a foam “cap” on the surface of the skin before our eyes. This cosmetic form allows the drug to be perfectly distributed and instantly absorbed, saturating the skin with a complex of active substances.

Mask rules

The main purpose of the mask is to activate blood circulation in the skin and improve its nutrition. Masks are best absorbed after a steam bath or cold steaming. Cold steaming allows you to hydrate your facial skin without preheating it with steam, which is especially important if you are intolerant to thermal procedures. This procedure consists of applying a special jelly to the skin for 10 minutes and covering it with a film, under which the process of cold steaming occurs. Masks can also be applied after a massage.

Thick consistency masks are applied with a spatula, brush or fingers, and liquid ones are pre-impregnated with gauze and cotton wool, which are then distributed over the face (either in individual pieces or as a whole flap with holes for the eyes, nose and mouth). Masks are applied from bottom to top along skin lines on previously prepared skin, excluding the area around the eyes and lips.

Remove the mask with a spatula along the massage lines from bottom to top. It is also convenient to remove the mask with a wet cosmetic sponge. To do this, take two sponges, lower them into warm water and at the same time, with both hands, starting from the middle of the chin, remove the mask along the massage lines.

Communication with the client

Wrap masks are well tolerated by almost all clients. They penetrate the skin well and allow air to pass through. In some cases, caution must be exercised when using masks, in particular with rosacea, the presence of warts and during menopause. Before applying the mask wrap, you need to find out about the medications the client is taking. When using certain medications, in particular for the treatment of acne, masks and wrap masks are not tolerated by the skin.

Young and middle-aged women can apply the mask once or twice a week. But older women should not use masks so often. The determining factor for the frequency of use of the mask is the condition of the skin and health of your client.

You should be sure to explain the following two points to your clients:

• the mask is an intensive skin care product; it should not replace daily basic care;
• It is necessary to use masks for a long time; one-time or irregular use will not bring long-term results.

If the client is going to a resort, offer her a course to prepare her skin for the holiday. Perform 6-8 treatments over 4-6 weeks. Thoroughly cleanse the skin, apply an appropriate mask, and at the end of the exposure time, perform the final stage of the procedure. Depending on the age and condition of the client’s skin, use it once or twice a week. Use preparations based on algae or herbs - depending on whether your client prefers to relax at sea or in the mountains. You will see that such a promotion will help strengthen your connection with customers and bring additional profit.

In addition to the mask

In addition to face masks, you can offer clients masks for the skin around the eyes or wrap masks for the skin around the mouth. In addition, there are body masks - for example, based on seaweed limestone and sea salt. These drugs and procedures can be used once or in courses. In your work, use forms of masks that are not so easy to prepare at home. And try with all your might to create an atmosphere in your beauty salon that would allow your clients to completely disconnect from their problems and relax.

First published: KOSMETIK international journal, No. 4/2012, pp. 76-79