Dermatogenetics in the practice of a cosmetologist

Yulia Trifonova, President of MAMASU, General Director of Ukrainian-German Clinic LLC, Candidate of Medical Sciences (Ukraine, Kiev)

Genetic matrix and rate of aging

The speed of our aging depends on heredity, lifestyle, thoughts and the world around us. Is it possible to influence the components of our longevity? Can. And quite effective. But this requires knowledge of our personal genetic matrix, which affects the rate of aging.

In 2003, humanity witnessed a significant event: the human genome, that is, the sequence of the entire DNA chain, was deciphered. It turned out that human DNA is almost identical in all people. But a slightly different gene sequence (called a polymorphism) can change the normal form and function of proteins, thereby having the ability to have both positive and negative effects on our body.

That is why we do not inherit diseases as such and do not have strict natural restrictions on youth and long life. We inherit a set of factors of susceptibility to various influences, which form the risk of developing disease and premature aging. The study of these processes and the possibility of correcting them in humans is carried out by applied areas of genetic medicine: cardiogenomics, oncogenomics, osteogenomics, immunogenomics, toxicogenomics, nutrigenomics, pharmacogenomics, dermatogenetics...

A cosmetologist who uses the capabilities of new genetics in his work is a professional wizard who is able to predict and, accordingly, prevent the occurrence of certain functional skin imbalances in a patient, develop an individual system of facial care, justify the need to prescribe certain procedures and products care, hardware and surgical techniques

Test for youth and longevity

Genetic testing is performed as a routine test. To do this, you need to obtain a certain amount of biological material from the patient (blood, scraping from the buccal mucosa) and send it to a specialized clinic. The result is displayed in the form of a table that lists the genes under study and the presence or absence of polymorphisms. An interpretation with detailed recommendations is also attached. Since the set of genes does not change throughout life, such a study is done only once.

Today, in many leading clinics in the world, a person can receive a genetic passport, on the basis of which individual preventive and therapeutic medical programs, lifestyle programs, nutrition, social behavior, physical activity, slowing the rate of aging and minimizing the risk of using medications and taking cosmetic procedures are developed.

A cosmetologist who uses the capabilities of new genetics in his work is a professional wizard who is able to predict and, accordingly, prevent the occurrence of certain functional skin imbalances in a patient, adverse individual reactions to methods used by traditional cosmetology, adequately assess the capabilities of the patient’s skin, develop an individual system of facial care, reduce the risk of intoxication and the development of inflammatory processes, and also justify the need to prescribe certain procedures, care products, hardware and surgical techniques.

What genes need to be studied to maintain healthy and youthful skin? There are quite a lot of them. The complete “dermatological panel” - a set of genes related to the functioning of the skin as a body system - is very extensive, but the main hereditary determinants of longevity and youthful skin include the following seven groups.

Detoxification genes

The first group is detoxification (biotransformation) genes. Metabolism in the body is continuous, and biochemical processes are constantly taking place in it. There are two main phases in the operation of the biotransformation system - activation and detoxification, and both of them are controlled by certain genes. At the first stage of activation, neutral molecules that enter the body with air, food, or through the skin undergo oxidation, which is accompanied by the formation of free radicals. Moreover, the resulting secondary substances are sometimes more toxic than the primary ones. The cytochrome C 450 genes are mainly responsible for this stage. At the second stage, the biotransformation processes are completed by detoxification, when all intermediate active molecules are inactivated, bound and excreted from the body through the kidneys and gastrointestinal tract. This process is regulated mainly by the genes of the glutathione system. Due to genetic polymorphisms, these two phases are not always equally active, that is, balanced. If the capacity of the second phase lags behind the first, toxic molecules are able to linger in the body and damage tissues, organelles, and DNA (so-called oxidative stress).

What genes need to be studied to maintain healthy and youthful skin? There are quite a lot of them. The complete “dermatological panel” - a set of genes related to the functioning of the skin as a body system - is very extensive, but the main hereditary determinants of longevity and youthful skin include the following seven groups

Polymorphisms of these genes can be signaled by such signs as a tendency to constant headaches, sensitivity to odors, energy deficiency, etc. The manifestation of these polymorphisms is aggravated by smoking, poor ecology, food with a large number of preservatives, caffeine-containing products, household chemicals, and active insolation. The activity of the first phase is reduced by carotenoids, legumes, celery, and parsley. The activity of the second phase is increased by products containing selenium (garlic), lycopene (tomatoes), astragalus-based preparations, and a small amount of glucose.

For skin care in this case, it is advisable to use natural, environmentally friendly ingredients whenever possible. The most preferred are products containing turmeric, calendula extract, various antioxidants, for example polyphenols of green tea, grape skin or seeds. It is recommended to limit the use of highly toxic chemical peels, anti-cellulite and other caffeine-based procedures (if there is increased activity of the first phase). Mesotherapy using complexes of microelements (including Mg, Se), hophytol, and ginkgo biloba extract is becoming increasingly relevant. Detoxifying physical treatments, such as lymphatic drainage or an infrared sauna, are very useful.

Oncogenes

The second group is oncogenes. In dermatogenetics, polymorphisms of the T53 oncogene (apoptosis factor) are studied. This gene regulates apoptosis - programmed cell death, that is, its uncontrolled growth is under its control. Polymorphism of this gene, manifested in increased expression, can lead to cancer and the appearance of keloid scars.

At the physical level, this polymorphism does not manifest itself in any way. It is aggravated by fairly well-known things - smoking, poor environment, contact with toxic substances, etc. Antioxidants that have anti-carcinogenic activity help: green tea polyphenols, resveratrol, etc.

In this case, doctors recommend that patients limit exposure to the sun, and also be wary of thermal procedures and interventions that may cause scarring: continuous laser skin resurfacing, deep chemical peels, etc.

Antioxidant protection

The third group is genes that protect against oxidative stress. Our body is constantly attacked by free radicals coming from polluted air and food. For residents of Ukraine, this process is especially relevant in connection with the Chernobyl disaster, as a result of which the level of ionizing radiation and, accordingly, the level of oxidative stress increased. The enzyme superoxide dismutase (SOD) plays an important role in the system of antioxidant protection of cells from damage. Polymorphism of the SOD gene is directly related to the processes of premature aging.

Externally, these polymorphisms can manifest themselves in pale, dry skin. If they are present, a state of chronic fatigue often develops. The manifestation of polymorphisms is aggravated by smoking, poor environment, excessive sun exposure, and poor-quality products. It is recommended to take biologically active compounds with antioxidant activity (lipoic acid, carnosine, vitamin C, polyphenols), and a dietary supplement containing superoxide dismutase.

For these polymorphisms, the use of cosmetics containing SOD is very useful. There is evidence that the first target for free radicals is epidermal lipids. And SOD on the surface of the skin prevents their peroxidation, thereby indirectly preventing premature aging of elastin and collagen fibers. Mesotherapy preparations should include microelements, vitamins and other substances with antioxidant activity - selenium, magnesium, manganese, copper, zinc, vitamins A and C, milk and whey peptides, placenta extract.

Inflammatory reactions

The fourth group is genes responsible for the immune response. The immune response is the body's ability to respond to a foreign substance with inflammation. In the body, the genes of the interleukin system (in particular, IL-6, IL-10, TNF-a) are responsible for these processes. The presence of polymorphisms in these genes may indicate either a decreased or increased susceptibility to inflammatory reactions. Their research makes it possible to predict how strong and long the inflammation will be, assess skin sensitivity, predict wound healing, persistence of erythema, and scar formation.
External signs of these polymorphisms include frequent inflammatory skin diseases and allergic reactions. Their manifestation is again aggravated by toxins coming from the environment, poor diet and lifestyle. In turn, a balanced diet rich in vitamins and microelements, sufficient sleep, and a reduction in stress factors helps.

Patients with TNF-a and IL-6 gene polymorphisms should be prescribed invasive procedures with caution. For example, only gentle peeling options using partially neutralized acids are suitable for them (especially when combined with polymorphisms of the biotransformation system genes). You should refrain from using peelings at home. Skin care products after invasive procedures must contain various antioxidants (lipoic, ascorbic acids, tocopherol, flavonoids, carotenoids, lycopene), herbal ingredients with anti-inflammatory effects (licorice extract), lactoferin. If serious inflammation develops, you need to be prepared to use antibacterial agents.

Causes of pigmentation

The fifth group is genes responsible for pigmentation. These include the gene responsible for the synthesis of tyrosine, TYR (it protects the skin from ultraviolet radiation) and the gene responsible for melanin transport, TRP1. Knowledge of the activity of these genes makes it possible to predict the formation of excess pigmentation.

The external manifestation of these polymorphisms are freckles, age spots, and the formation of pigmentation in areas of skin damage. The manifestation of polymorphisms is aggravated by factors such as uncontrolled exposure to the sun, a state of chronic anxiety and stress. The situation is improved by taking vitamin C, a dietary supplement with licorice.

When starting to fight excess hyperpigmentation in this case, it is important to keep in mind that with these polymorphisms, all achievements in the fight against pigmentation are temporary. After all, the root of the problem lies in a genetically weak adrenal system, which is further weakened by stress through the hormone cortisol. Deficiency of adrenal hormones leads to their active stimulation by the pituitary gland, which at the same time stimulates melanocytes in the production of melanin pigment - the culprit of pigmentation. When planning procedures, you must take into account that any damage to the skin may be accompanied by pigmentation. For example, the appearance of brown dots in the injection area. For patients with such polymorphisms, it is better to use non-invasive procedures whenever possible: needle-free mesotherapy, cosmetic non-invasive lasers.

Essential Hydration

The sixth group is genes responsible for hydration. Good skin hydration is known to be the key to its youth. And one of the best natural moisturizers remains hyaluronic acid. One molecule of it retains up to 500 molecules of water. Although this skin component has been learned to be obtained biotechnologically, it is better when it is produced by the body itself. The recently discovered Has3 gene is responsible for hydration and the production of hyaluronic acid.

The manifestation of polymorphisms is aggravated by long stays in air-conditioned rooms, central heating, and excessive use of baths and saunas. Drinking enough liquid, dietary supplements with hyaluronic acid, plenty of fruits and vegetables, and freshly squeezed juices helps.

In this situation, any methods of replenishing the amount of hyaluronic acid in the skin are useful: mesotherapy, biorevitalization, needle-free mesotherapy. It is important to keep in mind: with reduced skin hydration (this is always observed after menopause!), radio wave lifting does not have the desired effect. Therefore, two weeks before these sessions, it is recommended to do moisturizing procedures.

Collagen synthesis

The seventh group is genes responsible for the synthesis and degradation of collagen. These genes are the most important in dermatogenetics. After all, as you know, collagen is the main element of the dermis, providing the mechanical properties of the skin: its strength and resistance to deformation. A decrease in the quantity and change in the quality of collagen fibers in the dermis provokes accelerated aging of the skin, a decrease in the thickness of the dermal layer, the formation of wrinkles and folds, and the manifestation of gravitational ptosis of soft tissues. The Col1A1 gene is responsible for collagen synthesis. With certain polymorphisms, its activity can be reduced - as a result, inferior immature collagen is formed in the skin, devoid of the elastic-mechanical properties we need. Another gene, MMP (matrix metalloproteinases), is responsible for collagen degradation. With its increased activity, the breakdown of collagen in the skin increases, which is accompanied by increased formation of wrinkles.

Very thin, pale, wrinkled skin may indicate a “failure” in the functioning of these genes. The situation is aggravated by solar radiation, smoking, unbalanced diet, etc. A diet based on animal proteins helps - primarily the meat of young animals, rich in ligaments and tendons, as well as ingestion of collagen and vitamin C preparations.

The main goal of most of the most fashionable procedures is to stimulate the synthesis of new collagen through the destruction of old. If collagen synthesis is impaired due to polymorphism of the Col1A1 gene, such an intervention will be ineffective. In the worst case scenario, ingredients and procedures that stimulate collagen synthesis may promote the accumulation of an atypical protein that is more resistant to the action of proteolytic enzymes. Stimulating procedures are prescribed to such patients with great caution. The same advice also applies to polymorphism of the MMP gene - with increased destruction of collagen, it is better not to aggravate this process using hardware techniques. In the case of polymorphisms of the Col1A1 and MMP1 genes and their combinations, there are direct indications for retinoic peels or mesotherapy with glycosaminoglycans, as well as biorevitalization using high molecular weight hyaluronic acid. Retinoids, glycosaminoglycans, and green tea polyphenols have an inhibitory effect on MMP1, preventing the destruction of “correct” collagen and the accumulation of altered collagen. However, the greatest benefit will come from procedures that increase the natural activity of cells: the introduction of growth factors into the skin, as well as (in the case of menopause) the temporary administration of growth hormone or estrogen creams.

Professional approach

Of course, using research into the seven groups of genes described above, a specialist can choose the right procedures and ingredients for cosmetics, adjust nutrition and lifestyle, and is able to compensate for the effects of unfavorable polymorphisms and realize the possibilities of favorable ones. But we must not forget that the condition of the skin depends on the balanced functioning of the whole organism. Therefore, a correctly collected anamnesis will make it possible not to miss other mechanisms of skin aging and, if necessary, expand the range of genetic studies, for example, on nutrigenomics - one of the most important components of health. After all, properly selected nutrition can not only solve a number of cosmetic problems, but also increase life expectancy by an average of 14–17 years.

Thus, knowledge of the personal genetic capabilities of a patient at a cosmetology clinic and, most importantly, the ability to correctly interpret them, enable a dermatocosmetologist to carry out the most effective techniques, satisfying the needs of the most demanding patients.

Literature

1. Sahakyan Zh. Genes will help you choose the procedure //www.1nep.ru.
2. Fefilova I. Dermagenetics - new opportunities for aesthetic medicine // Les Nouvelles Esthetiques, 1/2008.
3. Baranova E. DNA: getting to know yourself, or How to prolong youth”, 2006.
4. Baranova E. Genome and antiaging, 2006.
5. Genomics – medicine / ed. V. I. Ivanova, L. L. Kiseleva, 2005.

First published: KOSMETIK international journal, No. 1 (47) / 2012