Chemical peels and sensitive skin: the possibilities of modern cosmetology

Author: Vladlena Kalashnikova, dermatovenerologist, candidate of medical sciences, methodologist of the Academy of Scientific Beauty company (Ukraine)

Peeling is not just a popular procedure, but also one of the most ancient cosmetological techniques. Even four thousand years ago, the Egyptians noticed the cosmetic effect of exfoliation and began to add crushed fruit seeds, mineral particles and even sand to the composition of special cosmetics. The chemical peeling technique familiar to us was developed in ancient times: the first “preparations” were mainly natural acids, which the ancient Greeks obtained from citrus juice, grapes and dairy products (analogues of modern kefir and curdled milk).

Modern peelings are divided into mechanical, chemical, ultrasonic and laser based on their method of action. Chemical peels also differ in depth of penetration: superficial, medium and deep. Due to their high efficiency and affordable pricing, peelings have taken a leading position among aesthetic procedures in the last decade.

Sensitive skin, like all other skin types, needs regular cleansing and renewal. But not every peeling can be used by people who have sensitive skin prone to hyperreactive reactions.

Sensitive skin: clinical picture

What is sensitive skin and how to choose the right exfoliating product for it?

Rashes, irritations, peeling skin and itching are not always signs of an allergic reaction or skin disease. Often, the appearance of unpleasant symptoms is due to the peculiarity of such skin, namely increased sensitivity to external or internal irritants. Sensitive skin may react inadequately to decorative cosmetics, changes in air temperature and humidity, wind, sun, and cold. It becomes irritated, itches, peels, there is a burning and tingling sensation, and areas of inflammation or swelling appear on the skin.

Most often, the skin of the face, décolleté, and neck is sensitive. As a rule, sensitivity is a common problem for those with fair, dry skin. This is due to a small amount of subcutaneous fat and low protective pigmentation.

Another manifestation of skin sensitivity is rosacea, when a network of subcutaneous vessels becomes visible.

Unlike an allergic reaction, skin sensitivity manifests itself as an immediate response to any impact (after 5 to a maximum of 30 minutes).

Increased skin sensitivity can be congenital or appear during life. This is facilitated by the incorrect use of cosmetics, physiological and psychological reasons (physiological reasons for increased skin sensitivity include hormonal disorders, a tendency to allergies, psychological reasons include frequent stress, overwork).

Unpleasant symptoms on the skin can appear as a result of unfavorable climatic conditions, exposure to sunlight, taking certain medications, using cosmetics and certain cosmetic techniques (mechanical cleansing, cryoprocedures, injection and thermal procedures). Provoking factors also include allergenic foods, poor diet, and vegetative-vascular dystonia.

Despite the increased reaction of sensitive skin to almost any procedure, it also needs care. He must be careful, especially during periods of exacerbation of symptoms. Among salon procedures, superficial chemical peels are the most popular.

Acid peels

Chemical peels are a well-proven method of cosmetic correction of involutive skin changes resulting from physiological changes and chronic insolation. They are also highly effective in the treatment of hyperpigmentation and scarring. They are based on controlled damage to certain layers of the epidermis and, in some cases, the upper layers of the dermis. The final expected effects of the procedure are smoothing of the skin profile, changes in skin color, activation of reparative and regenerative processes (increased mitotic activity of basal keratinocytes, increased synthesis of epidermal lipids and extracellular structures of the dermal matrix, stimulation of angiogenesis).

The superficial peeling procedure is carried out using AHA acids (glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric, citric), combinations of glycolic and salicylic acids, as well as retinoic (5–10%), phytic, mandelic and polyhydroxy acids, low concentrations of trichloroacetic acid (TCA 1 –15%) and resorcinol. But in the case of sensitive skin, it is possible to use only mandelic, lactic and low concentrations (up to 15%) of glycolic acid.

Almond peeling

Almond peeling is a superficial chemical peel. It affects the upper stratum corneum of the skin, not reaching the shiny layer. The almond peel contains mainly mandelic acid , 2-hydroxy-2-phenylacetic acid or phenylglycolic acid, which belongs to alpha hydroxy acids (they are often called fruit acids), obtained by hydrolysis from bitter almond extract. The diffusion of this acid into the skin tissue occurs to a much lesser extent due to the large size of the molecule compared to other alpha hydroxy acids, so almond peeling can be considered one of the most gentle, like milk peeling. The most famous manufacturers of almond peeling are Sesderma Laboratories (Spain), Mediccontrolpeel (Russia), Holy Land (Israel), Christina (Israel), Martinex (Russia).

Milk peeling

Lactic acid ( l actic acid ) - alpha-hydroxypropionic, 2-hydroxypropionic or lactanoic acid, belongs to the group of organic acids and is formed during the breakdown of glucose. It is a natural and biologically safe product, since it participates in the process of carbohydrate metabolism in the human body, and is also one of the components of the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF).

Lactic acid for industrial purposes is obtained as a result of an enzymatic reaction - the method of lactic acid fermentation of glucose. In nature, it is found in sour milk, in pickled and salted vegetables, in ripened cheese, and during the fermentation of wine and beer. The lactic acid molecule is very small and easily passes through the cell membrane, which ensures uniform penetration of the acid into the skin and the same effect over its entire surface. Lactic acid activates the renewal of epidermal cells, improves microcirculation, accelerates the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and collagen in the dermis, deeply moisturizes the skin, strengthens the protective function of the lipid barrier of the skin by increasing the synthesis of linoleate-containing ceramides.

Among the most famous manufacturers of milk peeling are Dermaceutic (France), Toskani Cosmetics (Spain), UltraCeuticals (Australia), Meillume (USA), Sesderma (Spain), Dr. Irena Eris (Poland).

Glycolic peeling

Glycolic or hydroxyacetic acid is the main component on the basis of which the material for the procedure is made. Glycolic acid belongs to the group of alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), or fruit acids. It is found in unripe grapes, sugar cane and beets; has an anti-inflammatory effect, regulating the synthesis of substances responsible for the elasticity and healthy appearance of the skin. Glycolic peeling generally has a rejuvenating effect and allows you to achieve visible results in a short time, since glycolic acid stimulates the production of fibroblasts and collagen. Thus, skin turgor increases (the ability to resist mechanical stress), its relief is leveled and the depth of fine wrinkles decreases.

The glycolic acid molecule has the smallest molecular weight of all fruit acids, so it easily penetrates the upper layers of the skin. Thanks to this, glycolic acid is the most widely used and popular among most cosmetologists.

Most often, beauty salons offer glycolic peels from the following brands: Academie Scientifique de Beaute (France), Mediderma (Spain), Christina (Israel), Laboratoires Filorga (France).

Enzyme peels

Another peeling that deserves undoubted attention in the case of sensitive skin is enzyme peeling. This is a surface peeling, where the active component is not acids, but enzymes, special substances of protein structure that act as biological catalysts (accelerators) or inhibitors (retarders) of chemical reactions occurring in living organisms.

The stratum corneum of the epidermis contains proteolytic enzymes (proteases) of the class of hydrolases, which regulate the rate of chemical reactions in tissues and take an active part in the processes of renewal of the epidermis by breaking down proteins into peptides and amino acids. Epidermal proteases are responsible for the differentiation of keratinocytes, the formation and destruction of desmosomes (mechanical intercellular connections), and the formation of lipid “cement,” in particular ceramides. As a result of aging processes, the activity of proteases decreases, which in turn leads to loss of moisture, a decrease in the rate of formation and renewal of the structural parts of epidermal cells. That is, the upper stratum corneum thickens, sebum and impurities accumulate on the surface of the skin, its texture becomes uneven, and the color becomes dull and gray.

Proteolytic enzymes included in the enzyme peeling weaken the cohesion of corneocytes by destroying the structural chemical bonds of desmosomes and thereby facilitate the exfoliation of horny scales, and also directly break down keratin. The effect of enzymatic peeling does not extend beyond the stratum corneum of the epidermis, since the size and charge of the enzymes prevents their further penetration into the skin, but by removing the top layer, the production of fibroblasts and skin cell renewal are stimulated.

Enzyme peels contain enzymes of plant, animal and bacterial origin, which are similar to skin proteases. In plants, protease is found in papaya, pineapple, coconut, kiwi, fig, mango, pumpkin, lemon, pomegranate, blueberry, etc. The main plant enzymes used in enzyme peels are papain, bromelain, ficin and actinidin.

Among the enzyme peels, it is worth noting biophytopiling for all skin types Bio Phyto Peeling (Christina, Israel), Phytogen Facial Powder Enzyme Peeling Mask (Janssen, Germany), Prozyme enzyme peeling (Danne Montaque King, USA), enzyme peeling gel (GIGI, Israel ).

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Thus, despite all the difficulties in caring for sensitive skin, there are quite a lot of products and methods on the modern market of cosmetology services that can satisfy the needs of any type of facial skin.

Source: Les Nouvelles Esthetiques Ukraine, No. 6 (88), 2014, pp. 70-74