Biological peelings based on badyagi

Ekaterina Glagoleva, dermatocosmetologist, scientific editor of the portal on aesthetic medicine, chief physician of the ComeMode beauty bureau (Russia, St. Petersburg)

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Traditionally, cosmetologists and patients begin "cold" care with programs built around chemical peels - a proven and well-established method. However, our clients are modern, knowledgeable people and, naturally, interested in the latest in aesthetic medicine. Fortunately, scientific progress is rethinking the knowledge of classical cosmetology, turning known things into high-tech innovations. One of the striking examples of such a "transformation" is biological peelings based on badyagi (badyagi).

Cosmetic properties of badyagi

I would like to talk in more detail about such a well-known and seemingly understandable active substance as badyaga, within the framework of the “new”, modern direction of biological peelings.
Badiaga is a freshwater sponge that consists of dried colonies of coelenterates.

The beneficial properties of badyagi as a means of facilitating the resorption of stagnant spots and the rapid elimination of bruises are familiar to many.
Badiagi suspension has long been used as an anti-inflammatory, regenerative and microcirculation-improving substance. Modern biochemical and cosmeceutical knowledge has made it possible to create products that solve many aesthetic problems.
Badiaga consists of silicon needles, connected to each other by the organic substance spongin, or sponginolin, which is similar in chemical composition to silk. Badiaga also contains phosphate and carbonate salts of lime and a number of organic substances.
During the biological peeling procedure, the silicon microspicules of badyagi (microneedles) penetrate the epidermis, where they are autoresorbed. As a result of the absorption of the microneedles of badyagi, a typical inflammation process is triggered in the epidermal-dermal layers of the skin.

Correlation of microcirculation disorders and aging
Aseptic inflammation caused by badyagi microspicules during the biological peeling procedure goes through all stages, during which the regenerative processes necessary to achieve therapeutic results are activated.
Due to the fact that the process of aseptic inflammation is typical, regardless of the damaging agent under any conditions, it includes three mandatory components: alteration, exudation and proliferation. The process always begins with primary alteration: during the massage, the cosmetologist ensures active penetration of badyagi microneedles into the middle layers of the epidermis.
The next stage is exudation, which during the peeling procedure based on badyagi has the character of mixed hyperemia.
The first reaction of the vessels, very short-lived, is ischemia, which lasts 3-5 seconds. This is followed by arterial hyperemia, which begins with the dilation of arterioles and then venules. The number of functioning capillaries increases, and the partial pressure of oxygen increases. The increased content of oxidized hemoglobin in the outflowing blood and the increase in the number of functioning capillaries cause the classic sign of inflammation - redness (rubor).

It should be noted that there is a very clear connection between microcirculation disorders and the type of aging. In addition to decreased hydration, changes in barrier functions (increased transepidermal moisture loss) and decreased skin elasticity, patients with involutional skin changes also experience significant disruption of microcirculation processes, which is reflected in various types of skin aging (Imaeva N.A., Potekaev N.N., Tkachenko S.B., Shuginina E.A.). Thus, the fine-wrinkle type of aging corresponds to the spastic type of microcirculation disorder, manifested by increased arteriolar tone and congestion in the venular link. The deformation type of aging is accompanied by dilation of arterioles, increased pressure in nutritive and resistive vessels. These changes are called the atonic type of microcirculation disorder.
The fight against changes in the microcirculatory bed is pathogenetic in nature in the fight against structural changes in the skin and should be a priority for a cosmetologist in choosing the tactics of patient management. Using badyagi microneedles as an irritant, we create a focus of aseptic inflammation in the skin, and during the second typical stage of inflammation, a powerful activation of microcirculation occurs.

The third stage of the inflammatory process is proliferation. At this stage, fibroblasts and the main regenerative processes that are so necessary for maintaining the collagen-elastin matrix of the skin are activated. The reparative processes that unfold as the acute phase of inflammation subsides are reduced to regeneration and fibroplasia. These effects are achieved both by enhancing proliferation and by limiting cell apoptosis. And knowing these mechanisms, we can talk about the prevention of aging by recreating controlled aseptic inflammation with badyagi microneedles.

As inflammation progresses through all stages, the following is observed clinically:

• hyperemia (redness), which develops immediately after biological peeling;
• edema, which increases several hours after the procedure and passes in about a day;
• an increase in temperature in the treated area - passes several hours after the procedure;
• large-plate peeling, which begins the next day after the procedure and ends by the third day.

The term "peeling without peeling" is applicable to badyagi-based peelings. Despite the improbability of this statement, it is based on a physiological mechanism. Peeling occurs not due to protein coagulation (as with chemical peelings), but as a result of pronounced biostimulation. The upper horny layer of the epidermis is exfoliated in large plates on the second day after the procedure, without maceration and the formation of characteristic crusts. The absence of damage to the skin insures the patient and cosmetologist against iatrogenic complications, such as hyperpigmentation and secondary infection.

Protocols of procedures combined with biological peelings

Let's consider two basic strategies of combined winter skin care using two types of aging as an example. Of course, this division is rather arbitrary, because the boundary between them is often blurred. But it is the basic approach to understanding the formation of certain aesthetic changes that allows you to combine methods and achieve beautiful long-term results.

Deformational type of aging
Stage 1. Carrying out microcurrent drainage (4 procedures, 2 times a week). This procedure is necessary to prepare the vascular microcirculatory bed for subsequent active actions.
Stage 2. Biological peelings based on badyagi (once every 7-10 days). To achieve the maximum effect, the cosmetologist can perform elements of deep modeling massage during the procedure directly on the suspension of biological peeling. In case of deforming type of aging, special attention should be paid to the lower third of the face: here biological peelings demonstrate a bright lifting result. Depending on the severity of the aesthetic defect, the course consists of 6-7 procedures.
Stage 3. After completing a course of biological peelings, the skin and underlying structures are ideally prepared for targeted procedures. As part of the correction of aging in the deforming type, it is relevant to use lipolytic peptides and powerful venotonics and antioxidants, such as quercetin and resveratrol, aimed at maintaining the microcirculatory bed and consolidating the therapeutic result.

Fine-wrinkle type of aging
Stage 1. Creating a skin hydroreserve for further stimulation. At the moment, the cosmetologist's arsenal includes invasive and non-invasive methods to provide the skin with an additional source of glycosaminoglycans and increase its moisture level, for example:

• biorevitalization with preparations based on native hyaluronic acid (one procedure a week before the start of the course of biological peelings);
• introduction of hyaluronic acid by hardware delivery methods (to accumulate a therapeutic dose, it is advisable to carry out 2 procedures with an interval of 3-4 days 7 days before biological peeling);
• use of application hydropeptides in the presence of contraindications to invasive methods and in case of the patient's unwillingness to resort to injections.

Stage 2. For fine-wrinkle type of aging, we use a more liquid solution of badyagi, making the suspension less aggressive, and perform the most gentle massage.
The course consists of 5-6 procedures and necessarily includes basic home post-procedure care using active moisturizing and nourishing products.
Stage 3. Having achieved improvement in the trophism and texture of the skin, you can move on to targeted correction of facial and static wrinkles (botulinum therapy, correction programs based on neuropeptides, contour plastic surgery).
Stage 4. Conducting maintenance moisturizing and stimulating procedures of regular professional care.

The modern microdispersed form of badyagi is a very active cosmeceutical effect, requiring the cosmetologist to follow the rules of the procedure, undergo professional training, and take into account all indications and contraindications.

Indications for biological peeling:

• gravitational aging;
• post-acne marks;
• correction of connective tissue formations (scars, stretch marks);
• skin atony;
• seboregulation disorder.

Contraindications:

• inflammatory skin elements in the areas where the procedure is performed;
• acne in the acute stage;
• dermatoses;
• erythematous stage of rosacea;
• herpesvirus infection.

During the initial consultation, the patient wants to receive a certain plan of further actions, a personalized scheme that will take into account the basic needs of the skin, solve primary aesthetic problems and prevent the appearance of new ones.
The emergence of new peelings, developed as a result of reviewing many years of experience in using badyagi in cosmetology, gives us the opportunity to influence one of the causes of changes in the skin structure. By integrating this method into our practice, we achieve a lasting improvement in the microcirculatory link and activate reparative processes. Correction of formal signs of aging alone is not enough – it is necessary to improve the condition of the skin as a whole. This is the comprehensive approach that provides the results needed by both doctors and patients.

First published: KOSMETIK international journal, №1/2013