Unsuccessful eyebrow tattoo: examples of correction

Anna Zabolotnaya , Head of the International Academy of PM and Aesthetic Dermopigmentation "Biotek" (Russia), certified artist, international class master teacher in permanent make-up, aesthetic dermopigmentation and trichopigmentation, winner of the first Contour of the Century competition (2003), judge of permanent make-up championships in Russia and abroad, lecturer at the International University of PM (Milan, Italy) (Russia)

Unfortunately, many permanent makeup specialists treat their work, and initially the process of learning and purchasing equipment, very negligently. Indeed, why go to study if good friends briefly explain the principle of work? Just take the machine - and paint! Therefore, more and more often you have to deal with situations where your experience and knowledge save affected women from suffering. After all, permanent makeup is a real art, and any mistake and ignorance of the theory can cost your client very dearly. For example, an incorrectly selected depth of pigment injection or black color leads to the fact that the color of the eyebrows becomes cold dark blue. In addition, damage to the deeper layers of the skin causes scarring and spreading of paint in the subcutaneous fat. In addition, due to an incorrectly selected pigment color or a pigment that is unacceptable for use on the face, purple, green or red spots are formed. And an illiterately chosen shape of the eyebrows turns a pleasant face into an ugly mask. Cheap equipment, poor quality paints, lack of taste and experience of a specialist - these factors greatly exacerbate the problems of customers.

For some women, a visit to a permanent makeup master ends in tragedy. The face is always in sight, it is impossible to hide it under clothes. But I think that everything can be fixed! It just takes a lot of time and money. Therefore, I advise my clients to take themselves seriously and carefully approach the choice of a master who will do permanent makeup. And my advice to novice masters is the following: master the profession in such a way as to be sure that you will not harm a person!

Experiments with eyebrows: how much can you do?

Today we will talk about eyebrows, because this is the most popular area for experiments with clients and masters. Many believe that this procedure is the simplest, compared to the same permanent eye or lip makeup, for example. And they do not understand that it is the eyebrows that can change not only the image, but also the character, and often the fate of a person. The reason for an unsuccessful tattoo can be many factors: errors in the selection of the form, in the application technique and in the choice of color. Many examples:

• too "raised" eyebrows;
• too low tail of the eyebrow or a very long eyebrow;
• too large angle of refraction of the eyebrow;
• very clear eyebrow head;
• asymmetrical eyebrows;
• too deep penetration of the needle, scarring, spreading of paint;
• overstretching of the skin in the area of pigment application;
• traumatic procedure;
• equipment of poor quality;
• pigments unacceptable for permanent eyebrow makeup;
• master's inexperience.

There are two options for correcting an error: removing the pigment with a laser and correcting with special corrector colors.

laser removal

Today, the removal of low-quality permanent makeup and tattoos using a YAG laser is the most effective way. The wavelength of 1064 nm effectively destroys the pigment, especially the colors of the cold spectrum. Allows you to remove the pigment implanted in the dermis without damaging the integrity of the skin. Does not lead to the formation of connective tissue (scar). Biological tissues are not visible to him.

Example 1

This atrophic scar was formed after the client asked an incompetent cosmetologist to remove low-quality permanent makeup, who used a laser that was not designed to remove pigment for the procedure. As a result, the client received a "minus-fabric", and the color remained in place. After several removal sessions with the yttrium aluminum garnet laser, I was able to completely clear the skin of unwanted color.

Condition after the 4th laser removal (photo 2): in order to lift such a scar, contour plasty with collagen or other fillers is used. As a result, the skin becomes firmer and denser, the scar becomes less noticeable, and in combination with permanent makeup, we can make such a scar almost invisible.

The first stage: basting drawing of hairs on scarred skin.

Next comes the detailed drawing of the hairs (photo 4).

During the procedure, it is necessary to hold the machine firmly and move it smoothly, there should be an angle of approximately 45 degrees between the needle and the skin surface. Remember: deep and incorrect insertion of the needle leads to scarring. The best way to get an excellent result from the very first sessions is to move the machine in the direction of the line to be executed.

Example 2

The following example shows three work steps. In the first photo - an eyebrow after laser removal. There are no longer clear contours, the color is light and even enough to be able to switch from laser removal to a new permanent makeup. The middle photo is the eyebrow immediately after the procedure. Three colors of pigments were used. The main color is dark brown. They draw the bulk of the hairs. The color should be matched to the natural roots of the hair or the color of the eyebrows. To enhance the contrast and give the picture a 3D effect, I added light graphite, with which I highlighted the middle of the eyebrow - the stiffener (the contact of the hair growing from above and below). Between some of the hairs, I added a skin color to thin out the overall mass of the drawn hairs. It must be remembered that all colors with a high content of white are very dense and opaque, so one pass is enough for the paint to fix in the skin. The final photo shows a healed eyebrow after one month. As expected, the pigment does not look so bright, the whole drawing looks softer. All three colors are visually quite separable, which gives the work volume.

Pigment Overlay

Too cold color can be covered with the opposite, that is, warm. For lips, this color will be orange, while the color will go into coral. For eyebrows - yellow, the color goes into gray-olive. To correct the red pigment on the eyebrows, you will need a green corrector - it will take the color to a neutral gray.

To cover the blue, pigments with a large amount of warm color can be used, depending on the color of the skin. And to cover the redness, you can use pigments with a large number of cold or olive shades. The larger the palette of pigments, the easier it is to choose a shade for your client. The more pigments you have to mix to get a new color, the more difficult it is to predict the final result.

When choosing a color, the master must tell the client about all the stages of fixing the pigment in the skin. On the palette, the colors seem more saturated due to the peculiarities of printing. As a result, the client can opt for the lightest shade. As a result, after a month, the pigment already fixed in the skin will look much lighter due to the matte epidermis that covers it.

Now we can safely say that permanent makeup is a completely painless procedure. In the arsenal of a good master there is always a large selection of anesthetics. In the absence of pain, the master performs his work carefully, and correction is not always required. Properly performed permanent makeup will never leave marks in the form of scars or scars. Every self-respecting specialist should have a portfolio of works performed in different techniques so that the client can see not only the result of the procedure, but also the quality of its execution. Feel free to talk about the pigments and the equipment used, because a professional knows all the subtleties of his business and even more, because dermapigmentation is a complex process that requires specialist knowledge in the field of medicine, make-up, color, psychology and a creative approach to each client.

The material was first published in Permanent No. 3/2016