Shadow shading of the eyelids: a master class from Christina Rudko

Kristina Rudko , certified trainer and representative of the international Purebeau company, leading colorist of TM Purebeau, co-founder and founder of the RUDKO ARTLINE international permanent makeup academy in Ukraine, TOP trainer of online permanent makeup training programs, participant, winner and prize-winner of international permanent makeup championships , speaker of conferences and congresses, author of publications in the scientific and professional journal PERMANENT, creator of author's techniques (Ukraine)

The technique of shadow shading of the eyelid with the effect of soft shadows is becoming more and more popular among our clients. There are reasons for this, because an air shadow on the eyelid can hide the traces of blepharoplasty, create a noticeable lifting effect, and make the look softer. Its main advantage is the ability to visually rejuvenate even the most aged eyes and make the overhanging eyelid less noticeable. Permanent makeup in this technique, when performed correctly, becomes a wonderful alternative to plastic surgery.

Unlike the usual classic arrow, the master, as well as the client, has a wide range of variations in shape, color, density. If you bring the shade of the pigment as close as possible to the color of the eyes, you can successfully emphasize the individuality of the client. By varying a dozen possible sketch forms, we can choose one, with its help change the shape of the eyes, make the look more expressive. For different age categories, you can apply any density of shading - from gentle and airy to intense. In a word, the technique allows you to perform almost any make-up solutions that the client can admire for several years.

Technology features

Like every procedure, eyelid shading has its own characteristics - moments on which the quality of work depends.

• In the work, it is necessary to use several shades of pigment: dark ⎼ for the inter-ciliary coloring and the outer corner of the eye, light ⎼ for the middle of the eyelid.
• I do not recommend using pigments that are too liquid: if they accidentally enter the vessel, they will migrate and turn into a stain that, to put it mildly, will not steal the client's face. This advice is especially relevant for working with clients who have a pronounced vascular network on the eyelid. Not worth the risk! On a too vascular eyelid, only an intercilia is acceptable for execution.
• On the age age, work as transparently as possible.
• Since the skin of the eyelids is thin and delicate, it is important to work as superficially as possible and not go deep.
• Continuity of movement is important for shading techniques. Control this moment
• You can achieve smooth color transitions only if you spray the pigment in layers.
• Do not stretch the skin with force! Work with small areas so that in the folds (especially on the age eyelid) there are no dirty spots.
• Remember that the more traumatic the work, the greater the swelling. The more swelling, the less residue.
• the higher the speed of the apparatus, the faster the movements of the master's hand should be.
• Avoid getting the anesthetic in your eyes! In case of contact, rinse immediately with running water.
• Do not reach the lacrimal to avoid injury to the lacrimal ducts.

Step by step procedure

The first step in the shadow shading of the eyelid is the secure fixation of the sketch. We start with the most important, guide line. With slow movements of the hand at high speed of the apparatus, we draw a thin, perfectly even line. It is best to hold the maniple in relation to the skin at an angle of 90 degrees, only a slight deviation is permissible. The line is drawn with dashed movements that overlap each other. If you are in a hurry, you will not get a dense line the first time. The line with a quick movement of the hand will be transparent, and you will have to repeat it several times, as a result of which the jewelry and subtlety of the result will be lost. The tail of the line, if you cannot enter the skin softly and airily, leave it in the end, stepping back from the edge of 1⎼2 mm. After the guide line is fixed, you can bring the tail with a slight movement, working "on the fly" (see Fig. 1).

At the second stage, we begin to perform shading with small dashed movements from the eyelash growth zone upwards. The speed of the device is slightly below average, the movements are fast and continuous. If you slow down in some areas, the resulting feathering will be uneven (Fig. 2).

The third and fourth stages are similar to the previous one. Only the stroke is made longer and longer each time. For this technique, eyelid tension is very important: it is necessary that the skin surface be as flat and even as possible. Otherwise, spots and uneven coloring are possible (Fig. 3-4).

At the fifth stage, we perform horizontal stroke movements from the guide line to the middle of the eyelid. This gives us the opportunity to make a so-called mesh, which creates a veil effect. When shading movements, the maniple should be strictly at an angle of 90 degrees with respect to the skin. It is thanks to this that we get a small scattering of dots, which, when healed, looks like air shadows (Fig. 5).

At the sixth, final stage, we paint over the space between the eyelashes with slow and very dense small stroke movements. The slower the hand movements, the more pigment is applied to the skin. We paint over from the last to the first eyelash. There are two danger zones on the eyelid - these are the inner and outer corners of the eye. In the inner corner, the lacrimal canaliculi are closely located, damaging which can provide a “crying eye”. In the outer corner there is very thin skin, under which there is a large accumulation of blood vessels (if the pigment got into one of them, a “smudge” may form) (Fig. 6).

For work, I usually use a single needle and a powerful Purebeau machine. Favorite and time-tested sorbitol pigments ⎼ Purebeau Brazilian black night for interlashes and black warm Imhotep (heals with “graphite”).

After the procedure (photos provided by the author)

Care after the procedure

Despite the delicate zone of permanent makeup, it is the shading of the eyelid that provides the most comfortable healing. No special care is required. It is enough to refrain from visiting the sauna, solarium, swimming pool, wait a little while using decorative cosmetics in the first 7⎼10 days. On the first day, you should not allow contact of the century with water, do not drink coffee and alcoholic beverages.

And, of course, it would not be superfluous to remind you of absolute contraindications : moles, papillomas, wen; diabetes mellitus (insulin-dependent patients), oncological diseases, conjunctivitis, hepatitis, neoplasms of unknown etiology, diseases associated with impaired blood clotting.