Popular permanent makeup techniques: arrow with shading
Possibilities of permanent makeup
An arrow with feathering is a great choice if you want to move away from the classics and the intensity of the lines on the eyelids
Victoria Lisitskaya, methodologist of the training center "Cosmotrade", winner of the championship "Permanent style of Ukraine", speaker of the scientific and practical conference on permanent makeup "Picturesque Beauty"
An arrow with feathering is a great choice if you want to move away from the classics and the intensity of lines on the eyelids. In addition, this technique is perfect if the client does not want to acquire arrows for a long time or wants them to be “not like everyone else”.
Soft shading enjoys well-deserved popularity among clients and masters. Clients appreciate the work done in this technique, primarily for its elegance and unobtrusiveness. An important factor is the service life of this work, since the shading stays on the eyelids less than the classic arrow, made using the technique of dense coloring. Due to this, with age-related changes in the area of the upper eyelid, the arrow will not deform, fall and break in the area of the folds on the eyelid.
Also, shading on the eyelids can come to the rescue in cases where the client insists on fairly thick arrows or wants the master to go beyond the crease on a fixed eyelid.
Masters, on the other hand, love this technique because it provides more opportunities in sketching, since the rules for drawing a classic arrow do not allow the tail to be pulled out of the crease.
And also for the low traumatic nature of the work, due to which healing is often easier than in the classics.
The essence of technology
For a master who masters this technique, it is first of all important to learn how to perform uniform shading, without spots and gaps, since shading on the eyelids often heals with almost one hundred percent color retention.
The essence of the technique is to paint over the space between the eyelashes well and create a soft gradient in the area of \u200b\u200bthe arrow (Fig. 1).
The main condition when performing work with the capture of an area on a fixed eyelid is that the shading is light, uniform and airy, so that it looks unobtrusive and guarantees the client that in the future, after a while, the pigment on the fixed eyelid will disappear (unlike the classic arrow, which can keep for years).
No special preparation is required on the part of the client before the procedure of permanent make-up of the eyelids. The exception is when the client wears eyelash extensions: they must be removed at least three days before the procedure.
There are two ways to execute an arrow with feathering:
1. The pigment in the region of the inter-ciliary space is laid in the same way as when performing a classic arrow, that is, it is quite dense and saturated. When moving to the shading zone, the same pigment is diluted, which reduces the concentration of the coloring matter and creates a light shadow.
2. Both the inter-eyelash space and shading are performed with undiluted pigment. The gradient effect is created exclusively by the correct application technique. This method is suitable for experienced craftsmen who are good at creating soft and airy shadows.
Shading can be either one-color or using different colors. For example, a combination of black eyelashes and brown shading looks very good.
Progress
Stage 1. We draw a sketch of the future arrow, observing symmetry in front of our eyes. We simulate a soft shadow in the sketch so that the client can understand how the work will look like in the end.
Stage 2. We fix the sketch. The easiest way to do this is with a white gel pen: it holds the sketch securely, it does not float under anesthesia. We apply primary anesthesia and keep it under occlusion (film) for 5⎼10 minutes.
1. We start by fixing the bottom line of the “tail”. This is the most important part of the arrow, so you need to fix it slowly so as not to lose the sketch.
2. With light shading movements, we fix the shadow area.
3. We carry out the first pass through the inter-ciliary space.
4. We apply secondary anesthesia. We do this carefully to avoid getting into the eye. Immediately after applying the product, the client may feel a tingling sensation on the eyelid, but this is a normal skin reaction. If the client complains of a burning sensation in the eye, then the anesthesia has got under the eyelid, in which case the eye must be immediately rinsed. We repeat the same manipulations on the second eye.
It is important to properly fix the eyelid so that the client does not blink and there are no wrinkles on the eyelid.
Stage 3. After secondary anesthesia, the vessels narrowed and the sketch can be seen better. Create a gradient in the shadow area ⎼ from dark at the interlash to the most transparent to the still eyelid. The movements should be uniform, with the same depth of penetration of the needle. You need to work with the very tip of the needle, slightly scratching the skin. Stroke length ⎼ 0.5⎼0.8 mm. Repeat on the second eye. The main movements are horizontal lines. Shading can also be done with diagonal movements from the bottom up.
Stages of work. Photos provided by the author
Care instructions
On the 2nd-3rd day after the procedure, the eyelids may swell. The degree of reaction depends on the individual characteristics of the skin and the degree of trauma. You can remove the swelling by applying dry ice to the eyelids (that is, wrapped in a film to avoid soaking the area of work). There is no need to smear the arrows with anything. It is also not recommended to paint eyelashes with mascara for one and a half to two weeks, the same applies to eyelash extensions.
The material was first published in Permanent