Eyelids in the technique of shadow shading: a master class from Christina Rudko

Kristina Rudko, certified master teacher of the Rudko ArtLine training center, participant of international congresses and conferences, winner of the international creative competition in the nomination "For the subtlety and elegance of lines", specialist in tattoo removal and tattoo removal (laser technologies, remover), master colorist of TM Purebeau

Make the look open and radiant, add brightness to the eyes and even change the cut - all this is possible with permanent makeup. We suggest considering aspects of the "shadow shading" technique ⎼ and immediately start decorating the faces of your clients

The technique of shadow shading of the eyelid “effect of soft shadows” is becoming more and more popular among our clients every day. There are reasons for this, because the air shadow created on the eyelid can hide the traces of blepharoplasty, has a noticeable lifting effect, and makes the look softer. Its main advantage is the ability to visually rejuvenate even the most aged eye, to make the problematic overhanging eyelid less noticeable. Done right, it's a great alternative to plastic.

Unlike the usual classic arrow, the master, as well as the client, has a wide range of variations in shape, color, density. If we bring the shade of the pigment as close as possible to the color of the eyes, we will successfully emphasize the individuality of the client. We can choose one of a dozen possible sketch shapes and use it to change the shape of the eyes, making the look many times more expressive. For different age categories, you can apply any density of shading - from gentle and airy to intense. In a word, the technique allows you to perform almost any make-up solutions that the client can admire from a year to five years.

Technical aspects of the procedure

Like every procedure, eyelid shading has its own characteristics - moments on which the quality of work depends.

• In the work, it is necessary to use several shades of pigment: dark ⎼ for the inter-ciliary coloring and the outer corner of the eye, light ⎼ for the middle of the eyelid.
• Do not use pigments that are too liquid: if they accidentally enter the vessel, they will migrate and turn into a terrible stain. This advice is especially relevant for working with clients who have a pronounced vascular network on the eyelid.
• On the age age, work as transparently as possible.
• On a too vascular eyelid, only an intercilia is acceptable for execution. Don't take risks!
• Work as superficially as possible ! Do not go deep, as the skin of the eyelids is thin and delicate.
• Control the continuity of movements ⎼ they are important for shading techniques.
• Spray the pigment in layers - this is the only way to achieve smooth color transitions.
• Do not stretch the skin with force! Work with small areas so that in the folds (especially on the age eyelid) there are no dirty spots.
• Remember that the more traumatic the work, the greater the swelling. The more swelling, the less residue.
• It is important to know: the higher the speed of the apparatus, the faster the movements of the master's hand should be.
• Avoid getting the anesthetic in your eyes! In case of contact, rinse immediately with running water.
• Do not reach the lacrimal to avoid injury to the lacrimal ducts.

Step by step procedure

The first step in the shadow shading of the eyelid is the secure fixation of the sketch. We start with the most important, guide line. With slow movements of the hand at high speed of the apparatus, we draw a thin, perfectly even line. It is best to hold the maniple in relation to the skin at an angle of 90 degrees, only a slight deviation is permissible. The line is drawn with dashed movements that overlap each other. If you are in a hurry, you will not get a dense line the first time. The line with a quick movement of the hand will be transparent, and you will have to repeat it several times, as a result of which the jewelry and subtlety of the result will be lost. The tail of the line, if you cannot enter the skin softly and airily, leave it in the end, stepping back from the edge of 1⎼2 mm. After the guide line is fixed, you can bring the tail with a slight movement, working "on the fly." (Fig.1)

At the second stage, we begin to perform shading with small dashed movements from the eyelash growth zone upwards. The speed of the device is slightly below average, the movements are fast and continuous. If you slow down in some areas, the resulting feathering will be patchy. (Fig.2)

The third and fourth stages are similar to the previous one. The stroke is getting longer and longer each time. For this technique, eyelid tension is very important: it is necessary that the skin surface be as flat and even as possible. Otherwise, spots and uneven coloring are possible. (Fig.3-4)

At the fifth stage, we perform horizontal stroke movements from the guide line to the middle of the eyelid. This gives us the opportunity to make a so-called mesh, which creates a veil effect. When shading movements, the maniple should be strictly at an angle of 90 degrees with respect to the skin. It is thanks to this that we get a small scattering of dots, which, when healed, looks like air shadows. (Fig.5)

At the sixth, final stage, we paint over the space between the eyelashes with slow and very dense small stroke movements. The slower the hand movements, the more pigment is applied to the skin. We paint over from the last to the first eyelash. There are two danger zones on the eyelid - these are the inner and outer corners of the eye. In the inner corner, the lacrimal canaliculi are closely located, damaging which can provide a “crying eye”. In the outer corner there is very thin skin, under which there is a large accumulation of blood vessels (if the pigment gets into one of them, a “smudge” may form). (Fig.6)

For work, I usually use a single needle and a powerful Purebeau machine. Favorite and time-tested sorbitol pigments ⎼ Purebeau Brazilian black night for interlashes and black warm Imhotep (heals with “graphite”).

After the procedure. Photos provided by the author

Post-procedure care

Despite the jewelery of the permanent makeup zone, it is the shading of the eyelid that provides the most comfortable healing. No special care is required. It is enough to refrain from visiting the sauna, solarium, swimming pool, wait a little while using decorative cosmetics in the first 7⎼10 days. On the first day, you should not allow contact of the century with water, do not drink coffee and alcoholic beverages.

Absolute contraindications: moles, papillomas, wen; diabetes mellitus (insulin-dependent patients), oncological diseases, conjunctivitis, hepatitis, neoplasms of unknown etiology, diseases associated with impaired blood clotting.

I wish everyone excellent work and the most delicate eyeshadows on the eyelids of clients!