Removal of permanent makeup with a remover: features of preparations

Alesya Khokhlova , artist, teacher of permanent make-up and art tattoo, founder of the school-studio of permanent make-up and art tattoo Millecenta (www. millecenta.com , tel.: +3 7529 171-17-71), author of the unique method "5- step-by-step permanent makeup training system”, author of the Inkjecttechnique training system: Ink-Technique + InjectTechnique (Ink-Technique – working with color in permanent makeup), creator and developer of the color wheel system Khokhlova A. M. (color in permanent makeup)

What is a remuver? What is it for and how does it work to remove permanent makeup? Many who are looking for an alternative to laser removal are probably interested in these questions.

At their core, removers are suspensions that can bind to pigment molecules stabilized in the skin and remove them from the tissues of the skin. Depending on the active component , acid, hydrochloric and alkaline removers are distinguished. Acid is divided into three main groups: single-acid, two-acid, multi-acid. Another classification of acid removers: single-phase, two-phase, three-phase. Alkaline removers are single-phase.

Manufacturers and craftsmen call some alkaline removers oxide, since the main active ingredient of the remover is calcium oxide (CaO - quicklime).

The manufacturer should indicate the composition of the remover on the jar of the drug.

Types of removers

Removers, which have acids in their composition, penetrate into the place of accumulation of the stabilized pigment, bind to the pigment molecules, destroy the connection between them and the skin cells and contribute to their extradition from the tissues when exposed to the apparatus or handpiece. Acids are inherently clotting agents. Therefore, under the influence of acid-based removers, a rather dense scab (crust) is always formed on the skin.

Removers containing salts of heavy metals in their composition are prohibited for use today. Instead, modern manufacturers include sea salt concentrate in their salt-based removers .

It all depends on the concentration of salt. If salt enters the wound surface in the form of a solution with a concentration of 0.9% (as in blood plasma, therefore such a solution is called physiological), then there will be no unpleasant consequences for the wound. Moreover, a similar solution is used for washing wounds in official medicine. True, for the purpose of removing pigments from tissues, the impact will also be zero. A slightly higher concentration of salt in a solution of 3-5-10% (hypertonic solution) when applied externally removes pus well and has an antimicrobial effect. But for the purpose of removing pigments is also useless. If salt in its pure form gets on open wounds, it causes dehydration (dissolving, it takes water from the cells of the body) - from this the cells are destroyed. Therefore, the likelihood of scarring when using salt removers is quite high.

Alkali-based removers, such as sodium, potassium, calcium hydroxide, are used for the chemical removal of pigments of any complexity. If acids are clotting agents, then alkalis are liquefying.

When using alkaline removers, the likelihood of scarring or inflammation is possible only if the client grossly violates the rules of care after the procedure. In addition, the place where the pigment was removed should be lubricated with special oil-based products, applying them in a very thin layer.

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Let's analyze some popular companies: Rejuvi, A. Sivak's Recolor IX remover, A. Shakova's remover (Shakhova's AS-Pigments remover, Alina Shakhova's remover), Pigment Off remover. All presented preparations are alkaline removers with the main active ingredient CaO.

Characteristics of alkaline removers

Calcium oxide is chemically active, reacts vigorously with water, releasing a large amount of heat: CaO + H2O = Ca(OH)2;

reacts with non-metal oxides: CaO + SO2 = CaSO3;

dissolves in acids: CaO + 2HCl = CaCl2 + H2O.

Calcium oxide is obtained:

- in the interaction of simple substances: 2Ca + O2 = 2CaO;

- during thermal decomposition of hydroxide and salts of some oxygen-containing acids: 2Ca(NO3)2 = 2CaO + 4NO2 + O2.

Calcium oxide does not interact with metal oxides, so we cannot conclude that it destroys pigment particles, as described by manufacturers and previously stated in many schools in permanent makeup removal training. Calcium oxide, which is contained in the remover, reacts with water (it is contained in the lymph): CaO + H2O = Ca(OH)2. Lymph - a component of the internal environment of the body, a type of connective tissue, is a transparent liquid; the lymph secreted from small wounds is colloquially called "ichor".

Thus, after the reaction, a dry white powder is obtained, which we observe in the process of removing permanent makeup. The powder consists of small crystals, and when interacting with water, we observe the process of dissolution.

As a result, the client sometimes feels a burning sensation in the area of removal, since, according to the chemical formula, a large amount of heat is released and during this reaction calcium hydroxide - Ca (OH) 2 is formed.

Calcium oxide is involved in the breakdown of fats and the absorption of moisture.

Permanent makeup artists should understand that it is not advisable to leave a concentrated composition of slaked lime (an alkaline remover composition) beyond the recommended time on the client's skin during and after the removal process, as this can cause burns on the skin.

Calcium hydroxide Ca(OH)2 (slaked lime) is a white crystalline substance that crystallizes in a hexagonal crystal lattice. When heated to 580°C, it decomposes: Ca(OH)2 = CaO + H2O. Calcium hydroxide absorbs carbon dioxide and hardens to form calcium carbonate. Therefore, in the process of removal with a remover (in this case, alkaline), we observe whitening on the skin and the instant formation of a white crust.

Slightly soluble in water, it is a strong base.

Reacts with acids: Ca(OH)2 + 2HCl = CaCl2 + 2H2O;

with non-metal oxides: Ca(OH)2 + 2CO2 = Ca(HCO3)2; Ca(OH)2 + CO2 = CaCO3 + H2O;

participates in exchange reactions: 3Ca(OH)2 + 2FeCl3 = 2Fe(OH)3 + 3CaCl2; Ca(OH)2 + 2NH4Cl = CaCl2 + 2NH3 + 2H2O.

Calcium hydroxide is obtained by dissolving calcium and calcium oxide in water, by reacting calcium salts with alkalis: Ca(NO3)2 + 2NaOH = Ca(OH)2 + 2NaNO3.

Calcium hydroxide Ca(OH)2 is the main active ingredient in the Reviving remover (Reviving remover).

Calcium hydroxide and calcium oxide are substances that allow us to mix immiscible ingredients during the removal process (otherwise they are called emulsions). Thanks to them, the substances that were part of the pigment move freely.

Some removers (Shakhova remover, Sivak remover) contain benzoic acid . In these removers, benzoic acid fulfills its purpose of neutralizing alkali.

Benzoic acid is used in medicine for skin diseases, as an external antiseptic (antimicrobial) and fungicidal (antifungal) agent.

Other components of the removers perform auxiliary functions. For example, zinc oxide relieves inflammation, glycerin moisturizes and retains moisture, magnesium oxide dries the skin.

Triethanolamine (TEA) is a neutralizing agent, the presence of which in the composition of the remover improves the physicochemical properties and shelf life of the substance (contained in the remover of Shakhova and Sivak). On the other hand, this substance is often criticized due to potential toxicity and carcinogenicity. Let's see how appropriate triethanolamine is in the composition of the remover, how its properties are manifested, and how dangerous it can be for the skin?

Triethanolamine is a low molecular weight amino alcohol that is widely used in the cosmetics industry as a soap base, an oil emulsifier, and a buffering and neutralizing agent.

As part of the remover, TEA acts as an acidity regulator, performs the functions of a cleansing and foaming agent. During the removal process, it dissolves contaminants. Triethanolamine contributes, so to speak, to the washing out of pigment particles from the skin.

TEA is produced synthetically - it is obtained by the oxidative reaction of ethylene with ammonia. In its pure form, it is a viscous colorless or pale yellow liquid, sometimes smelling of ammonia. TEA is highly soluble in water, oil, alcohol, acetone, but slightly soluble in hydrocarbons and ethers. It combines with acids to form salts.

Analyzing the Pigment Off remover, we note that it contains sodium hydroxide (Sodium Hidroxide) - a strong alkali, potassium hydroxide (Potassium Hydroxide) - an alkali. Therefore, it can be argued that this is also an alkaline remover.

Sodium hydroxide in the composition of the remover is able to corrode organic substances and iron oxides; forms sodium salts of fatty acids, which have a detergent effect.

Potassium hydroxide (in a certain concentration) in the composition of the remover performs a cleansing action, acts as an acidity regulator, but in large quantities it can cause burns.

Other components of the Pigment Off remover perform auxiliary actions. Using this remover, the permanent makeup master should observe the client, since there are a lot of components and an allergic reaction to one of the components is possible in the client.

Conclusion

In the composition of removers (Rejuvi remover, A. Sivak remover) CaO (quicklime) destroys organic and inorganic components. There is no chemical reaction with paint particles and remover particles. Removers do a good job of pigment inversion after laser application. CaO, when interacting with water, forms an alkali Ca (OH) 2 - slaked lime. Potassium hydroxide and potassium oxide are emulsifiers that allow mixing of immiscible ingredients in a remover.

The action of removers is based on the physical destruction of particles of the coloring matter, when some of the particles leave with the lymph flow, some can be carried into the scab, some are destroyed by phagocytes (cells of the immune system that protect the body by absorbing harmful foreign particles, as well as dead or dead cells). In this regard, the restoration of the skin requires a long time - 2 months.

Removers with CaO are effective, but require delicate work on the part of the master in the process of removing permanent makeup. The master and the client will need several procedures to remove the pigment, because if you remove it in one procedure, you can make burns on the client's skin.

It is not professional to say that only removers should be used to effectively remove permanent makeup. In the process of removal, it is important to resort to the use of laser equipment. Sometimes the laser is more effective in the removal process, sometimes the remover. It all depends on the composition of the pigment and what result we need after removal.

I do not recommend guaranteeing removal to the client to clean skin after one procedure. As a rule, in many cases, more than one procedure is always required. Removal procedures require a lot of effort, time, patience on the part of the client and the master.

If you have any questions related to the removal procedures, please send your questions to millecenta@icloud.com

This article is part of the special project “Work on bugs. Removal of permanent makeup»

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SPECIAL PROJECT. PERMANENT MAKE-UP REMOVAL