Natalya Dolgopolova , international class master teacher, IBF participant (2016, 2018), head of the Nataly Beauty school, author of the book Coloring in PM. Accurate Color Prediction (Israel)

Let's look at what pigments are, their characteristics, features, safety and predictability. Knowing in detail about what we work with, we will not only become more professional, but will also be able to expand the horizons of our clients.

Permanent makeup is currently one of the leading areas of aesthetic cosmetology. And it has many advantages in comparison with decorative cosmetics. The permanent makeup professional knows that a flawless result of a procedure depends on a combination of many factors such as the right technique, quality equipment and of course the quality of the pigments. Knowing the composition of pigments and the process of their production will help the master to make the right choice and avoid many problems. Let's try to identify the main points in this matter.

What is a pigment

Pigment is a durable substance, colored or black and white. It has stable physical characteristics and does not dissolve in the environments that surround it. The size of pigment particles (molecules) is within 4–6 microns, which ensures the most even color of permanent makeup, stable fixation of the pigment in the skin and does not allow the pigment to migrate to nearby tissues. The quality and intensity of the coating that the pigment provides are directly dependent on the quality of the original, base material. That is, the cleaner and better the dry pigment, the better the finished paint. The structure of the dry part should be homogeneous, without lumps when dried. The heterogeneity of the powder can cause difficulties in the work of a specialist.

All pigments (dry matter) are divided into organic and inorganic.

Inorganic (mineral) pigments are natural substances - minerals (for example, titanium dioxide, barium sulfate, iron oxide and chromium oxide). These are matte dyes that are durable. They are insoluble in water, solvents and fats.

Titanium Dioxide and Barium Sulphate are white. It is used to lighten dark shades and make them more pastel. These dyes are insoluble in water.

Iron oxides (Iron Oxide) are used to obtain red, brown and black colors, as well as for skin tones. Iron oxide pigments also occur naturally as an impurity and contain nickel. Iron oxides occupy the most important position in the pigment market due to their wide color gamut as well as their durability and non-toxicity. With the help of iron oxides, pure colors can be obtained: black, red, yellow, as well as all kinds of shades and combinations of these colors. Mixing these three colors allows you to get a brown color, without which, in turn, it is impossible to create the widest range of colors for both eyebrows and lips. Shades of brown can be different depending on the content of iron oxides in the pigment - from the color of tea rose to the color of dark chocolate.

Chromium oxide (Oxide Chrome) - green color. Another component, without which the range of pigments for working with eyebrows and eyelids would not be complete. Added to eyebrow dye, green provides an olive tone to permanent makeup, very natural (especially characteristic of fair-haired people). In addition, it is a natural stabilizer of redness, which can appear in the process of pigment fading.

For tattoo inks, pigments with a predominance of inorganic mineral components are used, since they are more resistant and are practically not excreted from the body, they only fade under the influence of sunlight.

Organic pigments are insoluble and do not contain metal ions. Possess low stability, transparent. Vegetable dyes are especially popular, as they have a large number of shades (plant components with a non-crystalline structure, such as umber, sienna, ocher, ultramarine, soot, etc.). They are of animal and vegetable origin, and carbon is necessarily present in their molecules. Their bright, saturated colors are very suitable for permanent makeup. The problem is that with all the advantages of inorganic (mineral) pigments, the shades that can be obtained with their help are pastel, so you can achieve brightness and saturation only by adding organic pigments. Such plant-based pigments are very popular and successfully used for permanent make-up of the face, as they have a huge variety of natural shades. They have an excellent ability to mix with base substances and therefore a huge opportunity to create an unlimited number of different shades.

Also, organic pigments have a low hiding power, which allows you to create translucent shades. Organic pigments differ from inorganic pigments in their fine and delicate structure. However, organic pigments are not as persistent as mineral ones, and after a while they are washed out of the body, leaving behind a barely noticeable trace. Ultraviolet exposure, like masks, peeling and other cosmetic procedures that stimulate blood circulation, can speed up this process.

Separately, I would like to talk about black pigment - it can be obtained from black iron oxide or carbon black Carbon Black. The latter option is preferable because it is the most saturated. The cardinal difference between carbon black and other organic and inorganic pigments lies in the size of the molecule: it is ten times smaller, which makes it possible to achieve the brightest black color during the production of permanent makeup paints.

Also now there is a novelty in the field of tattooing - plastic pigments. Instead of mineral and organic components, this pigment contains plastic that is biologically compatible with our body. It is very convenient to use, solid particles do not settle to the bottom, since the specific gravity of the plastic elements is close to the density of the liquid base of the paint, and the mixture itself does not delaminate. The color of the plastic pigment is more saturated and bright compared to mineral water-alcohol based paints due to the addition of eucalyptus, thymol and menthol, which allow the paint to penetrate deeper into the dermis.

The pigment consists of a dry coloring matter (pigment itself) and a liquid medium (pigment conductor to the skin). Even the most high-quality and wonderful pigment itself does not get into the skin - it needs to be delivered there. The conductor here is a needle, and the pigment must have the necessary consistency in order to use this conductor. In other words, it must contain a liquid medium. Several components of this medium are basic and are part of the pigments of all manufacturers, these are distilled water, isopropyl alcohol and glycerin.

foundation of the foundations

Depending on the percentage of the basic elements, all paints can be divided into water-alcohol, alcohol and glycerin.

Water-alcohol pigments have some features when applied. They are uneconomical, as they dry out quickly. Pigments on this basis penetrate deeper into the layers of the epidermis, which is why they are more prone to changing the shade. Water-alcohol-based pigments are most often used for tattooing.

Pigments based on glycerin are denser, are introduced into the skin relatively shallowly and look brighter. The cream base can be glycerin, sorbitol. The addition of natural extracts with regenerating, restorative and antibacterial properties improves color retention. Cream pigments splatter less for crisp lines. Such dyes, unlike water-alcohol-based dyes, fade faster when exposed to light and then disappear. Glycerin pigments are considered to be the most convenient in work and providing the most uniform healing of the skin! Therefore, they are very convenient to use in permanent make-up, they correspond to its goals to the maximum - temporary correction of certain areas of the face.

Information about the pigment can be found on the label: the components are indicated there in descending order, that is, the higher the element is in the list of ingredients, the more it is in the preparation.

Quality pigments should not contain iodine, bromine, chlorine. These are very harmful substances that can cause dangerous complications in the body even after some time. By the way, one more thing is the homogeneity (uniformity) of the pigment. Ideally, the size of the coloring particles should be the same, and the pigment should be uniform. Put a drop of pigment on a napkin and wait for it to dry. If lumps are felt on the surface of the napkin, the pigment is heterogeneous and will be unevenly distributed in the skin in the work. Another test is for the insolubility of the coloring matter in water and other constituents of the pigment. Drop a drop of pigment on a white sheet of paper, and if a transparent solvent trace forms along the contour of the pigment, this is a guarantee that after laying the pigment will not spread in the skin. If not, the colored base of the pigment will easily go beyond the boundaries of the zone you need and cause leakage. Taking into account all these nuances, special compositions are created, color stabilizers, thickeners are used, which make the work of the master comfortable, the behavior of the pigment in the skin is predictable, and the degree of pigment penetration is sufficient.

The material was first published in Permanent No. 3(11)/2018