Additives for permanent pigments, or What do dyes hide?

Permanent makeup masters know that the quality result of the procedure depends on a combination of several factors: flawless execution of the procedure, modern equipment and high-quality pigments. We can say that the “3K rule” applies here: high-quality PM = high-quality execution + high-quality equipment + high-quality pigments.

The reality is that some pigments can present rather unpleasant surprises to specialists, including:

• difficulty in application and unstable color during healing;
• too strong and unpredictable color change after the rehabilitation period;
• allergic reactions.

What should the PM masters know, what are the main points to pay attention to in this matter?

It is impossible not to know: the composition of the pigment

The pigment consists of a dry coloring matter (pigment itself) and a liquid base (pigment conductor into the skin). According to the Dry Color Manufacturers Association (DCMA), a pigment is a durable substance, colored or black and white, of organic or inorganic origin, that has persistent physical characteristics and does not dissolve in the media that surrounds it. Another point - all pigments (dry matter) are divided into organic and inorganic.

The first group includes:

- iron oxides;

- chromium oxide;

- titanium dioxide;

- ultramarine.

Iron oxides occupy the most important position in the pigment market due to their wide color gamut, durability and non-toxicity. Pigments are obtained from iron-bearing rocks of various shades - red-brown, ocher, brown. On the example of Biotek brand pigments (Italy), we can designate samples of the pure color of iron oxide:

• Black Cl: 77499 - Black Mixing Color;
• Red Cl: 77491 - Mineral Red Mixing Color;
• Yellow Cl: 492 - Yellow Mixing Color.

The combination of these colors allows you to get a brown color, without which it is impossible to create the widest range of colors for both eyebrows and lips. Shades of brown can vary from tea rose to dark chocolate. The shade depends on the content of iron oxides in the pigment.

White color can be obtained thanks to titanium dioxide , for example:

• Cl: 77891 - White Mixing Color;
• Cl: 77891 - Covered White Mixing Color.

Adding white to permanent makeup paint allows you to make it more pastel.

Chromium oxide (green color) is another component, without which the range of pigments for eyebrows and eyelids would not be complete.

An example of pure chromium oxide color: Cl: 77288 - Green Mixing Color.

The green color added to the eyebrow dye provides an olive tone to the PM, which looked especially natural on fair-haired clients. In addition, green color is a stabilizer of redness, which can appear in the process of pigment fading.

The purer and better the dry pigment, the better the finished paint. Therefore, the quality and intensity of the coverage that the pigment provides is directly dependent on the quality of the base material.

Natural pigments are very expensive, only large manufacturers can produce them. Smaller producers who cannot afford it often have to resort to various tricks. So, in an attempt to increase the density of pigments, "cut pigments" - mineral fillers - are added to their composition. These include calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, kaolin, talc, barium oxide, etc. Such additives increase the volume of the product and reduce its cost. Along with this, its hiding power also decreases.

Organic pigments are of animal and vegetable origin, and carbon is necessarily present in their composition. Pigments of this group are less resistant. But this does not mean that manufacturers refuse them. The fact is that with all the advantages of mineral pigments, the shades that are obtained when using them are pastel, and saturation can only be achieved by adding organic pigments.

Separately, it is necessary to mention black pigment , which can be obtained from black iron oxide or carbon black. The latter is preferable, as this option gives a more saturated color. The difference between carbon black and other organic or inorganic pigments is that the size of its molecule is ten times smaller, and this makes it possible to achieve the maximum black color during the production of paints.

Pigment grinding and other manipulations

Practice has shown that grinding the pigment to the optimal size (6 microns) allows you to get the brightest and most saturated color. The only exception to this rule is carbon black, which has a particle size of 0.1 microns. In addition to grinding, each pigment particle is processed to obtain an ideal spherical shape. Only after this is the actual color of the pigment created by mixing several components. To ensure the greatest density, air remains are removed from the pigment. To reduce the immune reaction of the skin, each finished granule is coated with a silicone shell and a shell with sunscreen properties.

The pigment is delivered to the skin with a needle, so the pigment must have the necessary consistency so that the needle can pass it, i.e. contain a liquid medium. The basic components of the liquid medium of pigments are distilled water, isopropyl alcohol, glycerin. They are part of the pigments of any production. The percentage of these basic elements divides all paints into water-alcohol, alcohol, glycerin. This information is provided on the label: the ingredients are listed there in descending order (the higher the item in the list of ingredients, the more it is in the composition). Glycerin pigments are considered the most convenient to use and provide the most uniform skin healing.

In addition to the basic elements, various substances can be added to the recipe that expand the properties of the pigment: aloe vera, castor oil, witch hazel extract, etc. The number of additional components can reach 20.

European legislation in the field of permanent makeup carefully controls the production of pigments and their components. Therefore, the paints of European manufacturers can be considered of high quality.