In the zone of special attention: men's permanent makeup

What is important to consider when working with a male face?

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If earlier the representatives of the stronger sex turned to the services of permanent makeup masters mainly to eliminate visible physical defects, today there are more and more clients who want to gain a more attractive appearance.

More recently, men's permanent makeup was considered as something out of the ordinary, but recently, more and more men have become clients of permanent makeup offices. And this is logical, because there is nothing wrong with striving to look beautiful and well-groomed.

Men have their own ideal of beauty, which they follow with varying degrees of vanity. If in the past this was expressed mainly in the use of traditional male skin care products, now men are potential clients of permanent makeup studios that require special attention. And in order to win this target group, it is necessary to take into account its characteristics.

What can be a reason for a man to apply to a permanent makeup studio? Most often, these are medical and / or aesthetic indications (hair loss, vitiligo, the need for color correction of scar tissue, masking skin dyschromia, etc.). However, in recent years, it is also the need to look young, which at one time led men to fitness centers and beauty salons.

What is important to consider when working with a male face?

First of all, makeup should look completely natural. Moreover, it is natural to such an extent that even an experienced look does not immediately understand whether it is present on the face or not. This obliges the master to use soft strokes, muted natural tones. Lip shaping must immediately be done using the shading technique, and in the eyebrow area, imitate natural hair growth using a thin and natural rendering of hairs of natural color.

To cope with such a difficult task, the master needs a deep knowledge of pigmentation techniques and the theory of pigment selection. In addition, in the case of men, subsequent correction is even more necessary than when working with women, since natural pigmentation is a more complex technique than decorative. To avoid mistakes in choosing a color scheme, it is better to carry out several consecutive procedures (up to three sessions), during which the master will gradually create the required color picture. For a natural result, you can use both one color and several, choosing one pigment as the base and applying a secondary pigment on top of it, which will provide the desired color nuance. The choice of pigments here, as in the case of women's permanent make-up, is determined by the characteristics of the client (type of appearance, color of skin, eyes, hair, etc.). In men's permanent lip makeup, red-brown colors, as well as intense red and pink palettes, should be avoided. It is better to use only natural and pure shades of red, giving the impression of lips with a normal blood supply. The secondary pigment is used to give the lips more naturalness and the desired shade.

Men's permanent makeup should be performed with a fairly thin (for example, single-pronged) needle, which can be used to create a natural and clear pattern. In addition, light shading with such a needle will be thinner than with any other combination of needles.

Eyebrows: expressiveness of the look and harmony of the face

If the existing eyebrows correspond to the desired shape, then only single-growing hairs outside the working area are removed, thereby fixing the contour. Using the fine shading technique, the appropriate pigment (or a combination of them) is applied to achieve a natural volume effect. Since the work must ultimately look completely natural, one procedure is usually not enough to achieve the desired result. Attention! Not all pigments lose their intensity during the healing process (this depends on the color of the dye, its manufacturer and the skin's own pigmentation). If the shape and density of the eyebrows do not correspond to the desired one, the master, without drawing a contour, makes up for the lack of hairline in the right places by thinly drawing individual hairs (of course, corresponding to male ones, thicker and denser than female ones). In addition, to enhance the density, using the technique of fine shading, draws thin hairs in the growth zones of the client's own hair. As a result, permanent makeup is performed over the entire area of the eyebrows: only where the client has his own hairs, thin ones are drawn, and where there are none, thick ones. And again, in accordance with the fine shading technique, to create more volume, the master uses not one pigment, but two, applying a second, lighter shade, next to and on top of the base one. The technique of fine shading is very natural: it focuses on the actual growth of eyebrow hairs, and if the eyebrows are missing for some reason, then on the degree of expressiveness of the face or its type.

Eyelids: tattoo of the interciliary space

Permanent make-up of the eyelids is usually performed in one procedure and involves only sealing the inter-ciliary contour and drawing the line of the upper eyelid. As a rule, masters use a dark, not too cold brown pigment, which is introduced during one session (three to five passes). Correction is usually not required here. You should pay attention to how a thin line is drawn in the inter-ciliary contour - repeated movements of the needle "back and forth" should not lead to its thickening. The thinner the line, the more natural the work looks. Pigmentation of the inter-ciliary contour effectively emphasizes and “opens” the eyes, and it is this type of permanent eyelid makeup that is more preferred and often used by men. The main technical rule here is not to go beyond the ciliary contour and not to draw a line beyond the outer corner of the eye. Sometimes it makes sense to also draw an arrow of the upper eyelid: with light pigmentation, it gives the eyes more volume. But even here it is necessary to work without leaving the eyelash growth zone. This method can be used if the client's eyelashes are short and sparse.

Lip tattoo for men

In the area of the lips, the master works using the shading technique to obtain a single color scheme and a translucent natural effect. For this, a wider needle is used, for example, a three-pronged one (preferably a contour one). The master makes uniform stroke movements from the edge of the lip contour perpendicularly downwards and then returns upward to the contour (for men, it should by no means be sharp). When shading, make no more than two or three passes. This helps to ensure uniform coloration of the entire area and excellent pigment absorption with exceptionally low lymph flow (which reduces the healing and recovery process of the skin). The color of the selected paint should be as close as possible to the color of the client's lips so that it can be nuanced with a secondary pigment.

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