For those preparing for the PM procedure: expert advice

Evgenia Bryukhovetskaya , top master of Ukraine - 2017, IBF world champion (team competition, 2018), speaker of conferences and forums on PM, founder and leading master teacher of Vobrazi studio schools, official representative of iCORE and BioTouch in Ukraine, cosmetologist

This article is not so much for masters as for clients, because women who come to us for the procedure have a lot of questions. If the client is afraid to decide to lie down on your couch or doubts whether she should do the PM, show her this material

In our traditional "Expert Advice" column, we have always tried to answer the questions that interest you, the PM masters. In this issue, we decided to slightly change the format and publish answers to the most exciting questions that your clients come to you with in order to make it easier for them to choose, dispel some fears and doubts, and increase confidence in the procedure and the chosen master. We hope that during the consultation or waiting for the procedure, reading this article, your clients will find answers to their frequently asked questions.

1. What is PM? What is its essence?

PM (micropigmentation, dermopigmentation) is a procedure for drawing the main lines of makeup by introducing a pigment substance into the upper layers of the skin (depth - 0.5–1 mm). It should be carried out by a highly qualified specialist, in an equipped office, using an apparatus (demograph) equipped with special needles. The dye that is applied must be certified and approved for cosmetic use. The purpose of PM is to emphasize natural beauty or to make a correction in shape, volume.

2. What is the difference between a PM and a tattoo?

The differences are drastic. First of all, it is the depth of penetration of the pigment into the skin. Once again, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that in PM the pigment is introduced into the upper layer of the dermis, so the procedure is less traumatic than a tattoo (the tattoo reaches the hypodermis layer - 2–3 mm). Finer needles are used to create sharper contours. If, when creating classic tattoos, the pattern remains on the skin almost forever, then in the case of permanent makeup, the result lasts for 1.5–2 years. The second important difference is the use of various pigments (for PM and tattoo).

3. How long does PM last?

It holds up differently for everyone. Many factors are important here. For example, the younger the client, the less PM will be worn, since the metabolic processes in the body are more active and faster. For this reason, the correction should be carried out more often for younger ladies, in whose body the rate of metabolic processes is much higher. Clients of the age group (from 50 years old) are in a better position. Also, the duration of the PM is affected by the use of drugs (daily), dietary supplements; the region where the client lives (for example, the hot climate and constant exposure of the PM to solar radiation accelerate the fading process).

4. Does it hurt to do PM?

The perception of pain is individual and depends on the physiology of the body, and the sensations from the procedure are also influenced by many factors, such as the type of PM, the professionalism of the master, the use of anesthesia during the procedure, etc. The less skin is injured, the more comfortable you will feel during the procedure and after her. Advanced needles and devices allow for a painless procedure. For anesthesia, application anesthesia is used, the effect of which is felt even by clients with a low pain threshold.

5. Is there swelling and how long does it last?

Naturally, puffiness will be present in any case, since the integrity of the skin is disturbed. But depending on the type of skin, someone will have a little more swelling, someone will have a little less. On mucous membranes, swelling will always be greater (edema on the lips will be more pronounced than in the eyebrow area). The swelling lasts up to two days. In today's realities, you may not take a vacation after the PM procedure. Indeed, thanks to new techniques, devices and needles, the risk of edema is reduced to a minimum.

6. Is crusting a normal thing? And how long does it last?

Definitely, a crust is formed. Once again, PM is a skin injury, after which a period of regeneration and healing must pass. This crust will be small if the master performed the procedure correctly and at an acceptable depth. On the eyebrows, the crust begins to move away on the 5-7th day, it can be completely invisible and look like a slight peeling of the skin. On the lips, the crust comes off a little earlier, on the 3rd day after the procedure, since the epidermis layer is much thinner here.

7. How to take care of the skin after the PM procedure? Are there universal recommendations for all clients?

The use of any medications without consulting a doctor is strictly prohibited. I consider it wrong when a PM master (without a lack of medical education) advises a client to take any medications. Treated leather must be kept clean. It is necessary to remove the resulting lymph in time. The only thing I recommend to my clients is to apply a thin layer of moisturizers (creams, balms) on the lips.

8. When can I apply decorative cosmetics to the PM zone?

If we are talking about the eyelids, then I do not allow the application of decorative cosmetics for 2-3 weeks, depending on the complexity of the procedure. Clients ask the same question about eyelash extensions. I advise you to build eyelashes only after the client comes to the appointment for a possible correction of the PM, that is, 2 months after the first procedure. If correction is not necessary, the client can increase eyelashes. When to do beauty injections? I also recommend after the control examination after 2 months.

9. What to do first - lip PM or lip augmentation with hyaluronic acid?

I recommend doing a PM first, and after 2 months (if correction is not required) an injection of hyaluronic acid

10. Can there be an allergic reaction to pigments? What else can you be allergic to?

A highly qualified specialist will not allow himself to use pigments from an unknown manufacturer, but will try to minimize the risk of an allergic reaction to the pigment. An allergy can occur to an anesthetic. Therefore, I advise you to conduct an allergy test of painkillers. If the client has a reaction to the anesthetic, the procedure using this drug is contraindicated. The PM master should warn in this case that the procedure will be more painful. This is necessary so that it is possible to assess the level of pain threshold with the client, so that the person can mentally tune in not some discomfort, and not leave with unfinished arrows or lips. Allergies can also occur on post-treatment. Therefore, I do not recommend PM masters to prescribe medications as care products.

11. If there is an allergic reaction to decorative cosmetics, is it worth doing PM?

You can, because all the pigments that are allowed in Ukraine are hypoallergenic.

12. Is it possible to get a herpes rash after PM of the lips?

In my opinion, this is possible and not excluded. All people are carriers of the herpes virus. And even if herpes has never manifested before, this unpleasant situation can arise. In this case, I recommend using tea tree oil. When answering this question, focus on the fact that rashes will not affect the retention of pigment in the skin if the client does not peel off the resulting crust.

13. Is it possible to get hepatitis or other viruses/infections during the PM procedure?

A very common question and one of the main fears that stop women from having a PM procedure. If you are confident in your master and know that he only works with disposable needles opened in front of the client, you are not at risk of infection. Other parts of the device in contact with the skin must be sterilized after each procedure.

14. How long does the PM procedure take?

Time plays against the master during the procedure. The longer the procedure lasts, the more puffiness appears, respectively, the more difficult it is to put the pigment into the skin. The optimal time for the procedure is 1.5-2 hours. Therefore, ask your master how long it takes him to PM the zone you have chosen.

15. Do I need a correction after the main PM procedure?

During the first procedure, it is impossible to take into account all the moments and predict for one hundred percent how the skin will react, how the pigment will take root. In order to be able to correct or modify, you need to come for a follow-up examination - only then it will become clear whether you need to saturate the color or slightly correct the shape, as well as evaluate the healing picture.

16. How to choose a studio and a PM master?

The right choice of a master who performs high-quality tattooing directly affects the result of the procedure. I recommend contacting only cosmetology, specialized studios where PM is done. Ask all your questions and, most importantly, get professional, well-founded answers to them. Pay attention to what devices the master works with, what needles and pigments he uses to carry out the procedure. Familiarize yourself with the portfolio of the master, preferably with healed works, get detailed advice when choosing a color. Don't settle for an unskilled procedure, don't fall for the low cost of the procedure. Remember that a PM cannot cost as much as a manicure. Choose a master according to the recommendations of your friends and relatives.

17. And finally, about the benefits of PM.

It is safe. In any conditions, you will always be naturally beautiful, with high-quality makeup. This greatly facilitates the life of a modern woman and significantly saves time. You are irresistible 24 hours a day.

I wish all clients to find their master, to be bright, irresistible, self-confident and enjoy their appearance.

The material was first published in the journal Permaentn No. 3(11)/2018