Perm: hair diagnostics before the procedure

Sergey Belyavsky, hairdresser-stylist, champion of the Republic of Belarus, multiple winner and prize-winner of the championships of Ukraine and Russia, silver medalist of the European Cup

No other method gives dull hair as much volume as a perm. True, any perm is a deep attack on the hair structure, after which it practically does not recover.

Modern cosmetic brands offer a huge selection of products for perms. All of them are divided according to their chemical properties into 2 types - acidic and alkaline.

Acid wave-forming preparations are more gentle on hair. They do not loosen the structure as much, but as a result, the curls are less durable than after alkaline preparations. In addition, acidic drugs carry the risk of an allergic reaction.

Classic alkaline wave-forming preparations are no longer as aggressive as before. A special additive - a derivative of green leaves, chlorophyllin - supports the process of wave formation, and the so-called cationic nutrient and panthenol heal existing hair damage, after which the curling process in these places is not so aggressive.

Regardless of the drug, the hair curling process remains the same. Straight hair has a circular cross-section, curly hair has an oval shape. To curl straight hair, you need to change the shape of its section while twisting it along its axis. Hair has a complex structure: keratin chains in the hair structure are interconnected by three types of bonds. One of them is disulfur bonds (cestins), which consist of two sulfur atoms. It is the cestins that are destroyed by the chemical composition of the curl so that under the influence of the fixative, which includes hydrogen peroxide, they are restored, but in a displaced form this is how the process of curl formation proceeds.

Each perm procedure should begin with a diagnosis. It is necessary to assess the health of the curls and pay special attention to damage. For different hair types, special formulations are used that are suitable for them.

There are several factors that you definitely need to know before perming a client's hair:

1. Pay attention not only to the condition of a person’s hair, but also to his health: hormonal changes, allergies and stress can affect the final result.

2. Perm is not possible if the client has used henna or bleached his hair.

3. If dyeing was done before curling, be prepared for the alkali to wash out the dye by almost half.

4. To minimize the negative impact, proteins and amino acids are added to the formulations, which reduce the durability of the curl.

5. After curling, an unpleasant odor remains, which disappears after about a week.

6. The scalp may be damaged during the procedure, which will lead to dandruff. It is impossible to overestimate the importance of properly selected home care after perm, because not only the duration of the effect of the procedure, but also the health of the hair depends on it.

The client needs to know

After chemical treatment, your hair will become drier, so you need to choose the right home care that will restore its structure. Intensive protection and nutrition of hair will provide it with a beautiful appearance. Be sure to remind the client that to maintain the curling effect, you cannot wash your hair for three days after the procedure. Together with the client, select a shampoo and conditioner for hair care after perm. In addition, your client will need a round soft hair brush and styling products that add shine to their curls. Show and tell us how to properly style and care for your curls at home so that your hair looks neat, stylish and harmonious. The duration of the perm effect depends on the individual characteristics and desires of the client. Curling should be resumed as the hair grows, on average this period is 6-7 months.

The material was first published in the Fashion Mirror magazine