“Makeup without makeup”: main features and rules

There are several types of makeup, and the subtleties of each are related primarily to lighting. Makeup can be wearable, for photography, television, and the podium. But a special place is occupied by the so-called “makeup without makeup”, which is distinguished by the complexity of its execution, because all its color codes must convey maximum purity and naturalness. Let's look at some features of nude makeup, which professional makeup artist-stylist Alexander Pushkar will tell you about.

Preparing for makeup

If the client is unfamiliar (as a rule, this is a photo shoot or a catwalk), make-up artists use means of quick skin resuscitation - rolling or gommage, which scrub and polish the skin. They do not require thorough washing (can be washed off with tonic or micellar water), they act quickly and efficiently, and are available in many brands and professional companies. After exfoliating the dead skin particles, we apply a disposable fabric mask to the face, which contains hyaluronic acid as the main element, without any impurities (preferably from Japanese and Korean manufacturers). It fills even the most tired skin with moisture in 15-30 minutes.

Once your skin is ready for the no-makeup makeup technique, apply a makeup base to your face without fear of being too heavy. Color bases: lavender and pink - for tired skin tone (earthy yellow) of older women, mint - for sensitive pink skin. Silicone base is good for enlarged pores. Mattifying base is ideal for oily skin. If everything is perfect and a colored base is not needed, you can take a base with particles of radiance - it will give a beautiful highlight even under the foundation. When all the preparatory steps are completed, apply foundation to the skin.

Tone and facial modeling

If the skin is close to ideal, take CC, BB or Fluid - light foundations with a maximum of 15% coverage. They care for the skin and protect it from the sun. If there are flaws, the foundation should be thicker (you can even use cream powder). But remember that natural light does not like foundations denser than 50%. If this is a shooting or fashion show, then the camera and flash light determine the tone. Always evaluate the result on the display and, if anything, add a little tone. The main thing in this case is the quality of the picture. And don't be afraid of freckles - they're beautiful!

Once you have determined the tone, play with modeling your face: both oily and dry. Dark colors are closer to nut, gray-brown, light colors are closer to skin color, but a little lighter, the shading is perfectly smooth and natural. In the catwalk, photo and video versions, don’t be afraid of correction: it looks beautiful and will be fashionable in the Hollywood hills for a very long time. White and dark stripes on the face, which they forgot to work out well, are irrelevant.

We choose powder based on the circumstances: HD - for artificial light, light loose - for daylight, and compact can be used independently without tint. You can not use powder at all, but fix the base with fixatives in a spray (in wearable forms, a high density of toning and powdering is unacceptable). Shimmering powder and roll-on powders can be used as shimmer and highlighter. For dry skin, it is better to choose cream textures.

Eyebrows, eyes, lips

Eyebrows when creating “no makeup makeup” are as natural as possible. If you need color, take eyebrow mascara: colored for color, transparent for fixation. If necessary, correct the eyebrow with a pencil.

We color the eyes as naturally as possible: beige, slightly peach shades, satin or matte shadows. The intensity is set by the light! Mascara in a natural shade. Don't forget about the wet effect on your eyelids: you can achieve it by using a transparent lip gloss. You can use Vaseline or a slow-absorbing cream, or simply spray thermal water on your makeup.

Lip makeup emphasizes sensuality. If necessary, we adjust and use lip varnish in neutral and soft pink shades. And don’t forget to touch up your makeup if necessary!

Experiment, feel light, color and know when to stop. The versatility of the master determines his professionalism!

How to do “makeup without makeup” step by step, we told and showed in the photo in our previous material.

The article was first published in MAKEUP&YOU Professional magazine.