5 main mistakes when painting with permanent dyes

Don't repeat them!

2019-12-10
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Many people think that in order to become a good colorist, you need to have perfect command of sophisticated coloring techniques and knowledge of the color wheel.

But everything is much simpler - it’s enough not to make gross mistakes. After all, the majority of masters’ mistakes are made at a completely different, more primitive level.

Alena Evgenieva, top stylist at D2 salon, leading teacher at the Dudenko Kyiv school

Let's look at 5 main mistakes and find out how to deal with them.

  1. The result is a “surprise”

When starting coloring with a permanent dye, you need to read the instructions for use, no matter how trivial it may sound. Dilution proportions, % of oxidizing agent and its ability to lighten natural hair - these data about the dye should not be neglected. Teach yourself not to jump above the bar that the manufacturers themselves have already set. Don't expect a snail to sprint, because this always leads to disappointment.

Solution: develop the habit of always studying the requirements for the dye and not overestimating its capabilities.

  1. "Burning Roots"

The most common mistake that is easy to fix. First of all, you need to clarify the difference between primary and secondary staining. This data is in the instructions that the manufacturer always includes in the paint package. Remember: it doesn’t matter what kind of dye was used - household or professional. This is where the skill described above will come in handy - always explore the possibilities of the dye. Please note that “burning roots” are the result of over-lightening your hair.

There are two ways out of this situation - darken the root or lighten the length.

  1. Paint does not lighten paint! Come on?!

I know many masters who did not argue with this theory during a certain period of their practice. I regularly see the same result - the master is proud of his unique move and the deplorable condition of the hair after such a procedure.

The opinion that dyes with a high lightening ability do not damage the hair as much as powder at low speeds is deceptive. Modern powders will cope perfectly with any task at 2, 3, 6%. Moreover, their effect on hair is not so catastrophic. The option of lightening hair with permanent dyes leads to greater destruction of the cuticle. The result is “burning roots” and color that fades quickly.

Solution: to lighten hair, use powder at 2, 3, 6% instead of dyes with a high lightening ability.

  1. Ammonia (permanent) dyes wash off quickly

Each company guarantees a certain number of washes before the color fades. But masters must understand that not everything is so simple.

There is a dual coloring system . This system was once popularized by many manufacturers under different names. The rules of the dual dyeing system are to apply an ammonia (permanent) dye to the natural root, and to equalize the porosity of the hair along the length using ammonia-free dyes or a small% oxidizing agent. This gives us the opportunity not to loosen the hair even more, maintaining its quality and beauty.

Solution: use a dual coloring system to maintain the brightness of the color longer.

  1. Now I will mix 110 tubes and get super color

Everything is much simpler. Remember the truth: there are only three primary colors, everything else was obtained by mixing them in different proportions . I allow for mixing different levels of dye to achieve an average result if necessary. But mixing more than 3 ranges of dyes is self-deception, and, most likely, the color you need already exists.

Solution: do not mix more than 3 ranges of dyes.

conclusions

Remember that you need to create beautifully and confidently. Color depends not only on your knowledge of the color wheel, but also on your ability to apply the dye correctly. Difficulties begin when you deviate from the rules.

Based on materials from the magazine "Mirror of Fashion"

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