5 common mistakes that experts make

And Yana Chaplitskaya , national technologist of TM Kaaral and international class colorist, will help us with this.

Blondes have always been considered the most expensive women. And this is not so far from the truth. Blonde dyeing is one of the most expensive and sought after services in a salon, and keeping blonde hair in good condition is not cheap at all. Unfortunately, not every blonde leaves the salon feeling satisfied with the service received. Yellowness, damaged hair, too dark, too light... and this is not a complete list of clients' complaints. And they are not always groundless.

Blonde color is not light enough

Very often, clients complain that they cannot get the shade they want as light as possible. What is the reason? The main mistake of the masters is an incorrectly prepared base in advance. Some masters believe that the dye will raise the base one more level, level it out, and clean the background lightening. They hope to cover up their flaws with tinting.

Dear masters! Remember the basic rule of color: paint does not lighten paint! If we do not reach the base to the desired level with powder or cream to lighten, then the paint will not do it! And adding correctors will not improve the situation, but on the contrary, it can darken the hair color. Example: the desired color is 10.0, the master lightens the base to level 9.3. The artist then uses 10.02 dye in the hope that the violet nuance will neutralize the golden undertone. But a miracle does not happen, the client’s hair is darkened and the result is 8.0 instead of the desired shade. There is only one way out: you need to properly prepare the base by lightening it. If we want to get a neutral color, then the base should be one level lighter. If we perform fashionable blonde dyeing in ash, purple or pink shades, then the base should be two levels higher.

Hair color not cool enough

Cool blonde is always a priority for clients. In order to always get the desired result, you need to learn how to correctly determine the level of the desired tone and, accordingly, correctly prepare the base, taking into account the lightening background. If the base is two levels higher than the desired tone, only then can we get beautiful pure shades. If we want to get an even, cool shade on very porous hair, we first need to moisturize it by simply moistening it with water. Water will smooth out the hair structure and the shade will fall more evenly. If necessary, you can add a copper corrector to the ashy shade so that the ends of the hair do not acquire blue or bluish tones.

Hair color is uneven

There are several reasons for uneven coloring. Firstly, this may be influenced by the heterogeneous structure of the hair: more lively at the roots with dry, porous ends. In this case, it is recommended to first carry out a restorative procedure using an ampoule of the X-Form restoring lotion from TM Kaaral. This will smooth out the hair structure along the entire length, and the dye will lie evenly. It is also recommended to moisturize your hair before such complex blonde dyeing.

Secondly, the cause may be improper application of the dye. To obtain an even, beautiful color, you should never smear the dye on your hair. You need to apply it to your hair in a thick layer. Moreover, over-bleached hair initially needs to be pre-pigmented, and it is advisable to tint bleached hair with an ammonia-free dye. We also often encounter such a phenomenon as banding. This is a yellow or light stripe at the roots of the hair.

Where does it come from? The reason may be that the client often changes brands of dyes, artists, percentage of oxidizer, or simply used the wrong dyeing technique. How to get rid of this streak? We always start lightening from the banding area. First, apply the lightening mixture to the strip, and after about 15 minutes (depending on the brightness of the banding), apply paint to the root. Another main reason is the heterogeneous base. To get an even color, just level it.

Color fades too quickly

One of the main reasons why this happens: initially the master under-lightens or, conversely, over-lightens the base. For example, the client wanted level 8 blonde, and the master lightens the base to level 11. Accordingly, the dye will quickly wash out.

How to avoid this? You need to properly prepare the base: to do this, it is enough to carry out pre-pigmentation to the desired level. The second good reason, oddly enough, is the clients themselves. After the time of application of the dye has passed, the color of the dye on the hair may change and darken. The client begins to get nervous that it will be darker than necessary, and asks the hairdresser to urgently wash off the dye from her hair. The master, following the lead, washes off the dye from the hair earlier than necessary. This must not be done under any circumstances! Always follow the holding time specified by the manufacturer! Let's turn to chemistry.

First of all, blue dye molecules appear on the hair. And visually at this moment we can see the darkening of the hair. Secondly, red pigments appear. They come together and a purple color appears, which is visually even darker. At this moment, the client, as a rule, demands to wash off the paint. But the pigments do not have time to penetrate the hair properly, and the color does not fully appear.

As a result, it is quickly washed out. The reason is that the dye molecule did not have time to polymerize completely and increase 300 times, so it will quickly leave the hair. And the third reason is the lack of professionalism of the craftsmen. After the dye combines with the oxidizing agent, the mixture must be applied to the hair as quickly as possible before the molecules polymerize.

While the molecule is small, it easily penetrates the cortex layer, grows inside the hair and is not washed out from there. Often we see the following picture: the master makes a color mixture, then begins to prepare the client for coloring, talks with the client and delays the start of coloring for 10-15 minutes. At this point, the molecules have already polymerized and the composition of the dye turns from semi-permanent to physical. And the resulting color lasts on the hair for only 2-3 shampooing procedures.

The correct application of the dye also plays an important role. Warm shades are known to require pre-pigmentation. Cool shades (for example, when dyeing ash blonde) are recommended to be applied from the ends according to the scheme: ends - length - roots. The mistake that the craftsmen make is that they paint the root thickly and then stretch the dye along its length. As a result, the dye polymerizes in the root zone, and the enlarged molecules can no longer penetrate the length of the hair: we get a weak blonde color with dark roots.

Poor hair quality

Indeed, the lightening procedure does not have the best effect on hair. Throw a party for the blonde! Invite your client to additional restorative salon treatments. For example, for a deep hair restoration procedure - a mask with natural royal jelly Royal Jelly with an ampoule of X-Form restoring lotion from TM Kaaral. Recommend a home care complex to your client that will help her maintain her hair in excellent condition. By following these simple recommendations, you will get beautiful, even hair shades, and your grateful blonde clients will come back to you again and again.

The article was first published in the magazine “Makeup&YOU Professional” and is intended for professional colorists.