Cosmeceuticals for rosacea: what should be included

Andrey Shor , Doctor of Chemistry, chief developer of the cosmeceutical company O. S.​ A Cosmetics , brand Renew (Israel)

As a result of exposure to unfavorable factors (sharp temperature changes, ultraviolet radiation, nervous stress, genetic predisposition, liver disease, etc.), the tone of the capillaries of the dermis decreases, their permeability increases, the elasticity of the vascular wall decreases, which generally worsens microcirculation and metabolism of vascular cells.

Microcirculation is the transport of biological fluids at the level of body tissues, the movement of blood through microvessels of the capillary type (capillary circulation), the movement of intercellular fluid and substances, the movement of lymph through lymphatic vessels. Disruption of microcirculation is externally manifested in the formation of spider veins, meshwork, giving the skin a pink and even red color - a phenomenon that we call rosacea. As a rule, the most noticeable manifestation of rosacea is in the central part of the face - the nose, wings of the nose, parts surrounding the nose such as the mouth, chin. Therefore, based on the above, the main task in the fight against rosacea is to strengthen the walls of blood vessels, regulate the pressure in them and establish microcirculation of the skin.

When developing and producing preparations for skin prone to rosacea, special attention is paid to the selection of active ingredients for an effective, but gentle and careful effect. The active components included in such drugs can be divided into several functional groups:

• the first includes components that strengthen the walls of blood vessels, increase the elasticity of the walls of capillaries, reduce their permeability and restore capillary blood circulation;
• another group of components is designed to reduce irritation, eliminate inflammation, even out the color and structure of the skin;
• certain components help moisturize the skin and prevent transepidermal moisture loss;
• Particular importance is given to components that ensure effective delivery of active substances and vitamins.

Since many components solve several problems simultaneously, that is, they are multifunctional, this division is quite arbitrary.

So, when assessing in advance the effectiveness of drugs to combat rosacea from various cosmetic brands, refer to the composition of the cosmetic product. The presence of a large number of therapeutic and preventive components with proven therapeutic anti-rosacea effects guarantees their high effectiveness. What are these components?

Plant extracts

One of the most active components of anti-rosacea drugs is tomato extract , which contains large quantities of vitamin K - an element especially important for coagulation (blood clotting). Vitamin K is the first remedy for healing microtraumas associated with disruption of the continuity of blood vessels and, in general, for any problems with blood vessels. It improves skin tone, eliminates dilated blood vessels and age spots. It is indispensable for caring for the skin of older people with weakened blood vessels and prone to redness and the formation of spider veins on the skin. In addition to vitamin K, tomato extract contains vitamins B and P, ascorbic acid, carotene, and organic acids, which allows this ingredient to normalize the functioning of capillaries, tone the skin, and help cleanse the walls of blood vessels.

Arnica extract contains organic acids, tannins, keratinoids, and ascorbic acid. It has wound-healing, anti-inflammatory and hemostatic effects. When used externally, it promotes the resorption of hemorrhages.

Water pepper extract (Polygonum Aviculare Extract) contains flavonoids, rutin and quercetin, vitamins A, E, K, and ascorbic acid. Has a hemostatic effect. Tannic and polyphenolic compounds clog damaged small vessels and capillaries and inhibit bleeding. Flavonoid compounds reduce the permeability of the vascular wall of capillaries.

Horse chestnut extract (Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract) reduces blood clotting, prevents the formation of blood clots in blood vessels and promotes the resorption of those formed. The active substance of horse chestnut extract, esculin glycoside, reduces capillary permeability, has an important capillary-strengthening effect, and reduces capillary fragility.

Aloe extract contains enzymes, vitamins, glycosides and other biologically active substances that have a tonic and soothing effect.

Vitamins

In addition to vitamin K, contained in tomato and water pepper extracts (which we discussed above), other vitamins are also used in anti-rosacea preparations. Particular importance in solving this problem is given to B vitamins - they normalize metabolic processes in the dermis and epidermis, smooth and tighten aging skin, moisturize it, make it firmer and more elastic, and improve complexion. Vitamin B3 (nicotinamide) helps maintain normal blood circulation by dilating blood vessels and reducing resistance to blood flow. It has antioxidant activity, softens the skin, stimulates skin regeneration after damage and inflammation. Vitamin B5 is used in a stable form in the form of panthenol, maintains skin tone, promotes moisturizing, healing and smoothing of the skin.

Vitamin P - rutin, an anti-sclerotic element that reduces the permeability and fragility of capillaries, protects against hemorrhages. Rutin belongs to the group of biological active substances – flavonoids. Rutin reduces the aggregation of red blood cells and prevents the formation of blood clots, has an anti-inflammatory effect, protects hyaluronic acid from decomposition under the influence of certain enzymes, increases the activity of ascorbic acid (protecting against oxidation, rutin helps its better absorption), strengthens the walls of blood vessels, and reduces the risk of internal hemorrhages.

Vitamin C - ascorbic acid, is important for the functioning of the body. Participates in the regulation of redox processes, carbohydrate metabolism, blood clotting, normal capillary permeability, and collagen synthesis. Enhances the active effect of vitamin E.

Vitamin A is used in the form of a stable form of retinyl palmitate. Plays an important role in normalizing metabolic processes in the skin. Prevents the formation of wrinkles, improves skin cell regeneration, increases skin tone and elasticity. In skin cells, retinyl palmitate is hydrolyzed and oxidized to its active form, retinoic acid.

Vitamin E in the form of tocopherol acetate protects vitamin A from oxidation and prevents the oxidation of skin lipids leading to deterioration in the appearance of the skin. Vitamin E is one of the most powerful antioxidants.

Anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredients

Certain components are introduced into anti-rosacea complex preparations to reduce irritation and soothe the skin.

Allantoin - has a softening, soothing and moisturizing effect on the skin. Stimulates the healing of microcracks and rough, cracked skin, eliminates flaking, makes the skin smooth and elastic, and enhances its regenerative ability.

Bisabolol is one of the components of chamomile essential oil. It has analgesic, sedative, anti-inflammatory properties. It is well tolerated by the skin, relieves irritation and protects against redness and skin allergies. Bisabolol has the ability to improve the transepidermal delivery of peptide components.

As one of the components of this group, the synthetic dipeptide glutamyl amidoethyl indole is used, which reduces the production of inflammatory molecules - interleukins and cytamines. The peptide protects nerve cells from destruction under the influence of UV radiation. The neuroprotective effect of the peptide is higher than that of vitamin E. Skin moisture loss is reduced, skin elasticity is increased, redness, irritation and itching are reduced.

Another peptide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide -8, belongs to the group of immunoregulators, fights inflammation of a neurogenic nature, soothes and softens inflamed skin, and restores the normal threshold of skin sensitivity.

We are accustomed to considering hyaluronic acid, which is one of the types of glycosaminoglycans (GAG), only from the standpoint of its hygroscopic properties, since its main function is to retain a large mass of water in the intercellular space. However, in addition, HA also acts as an ingredient that enhances skin regeneration and has an antiseptic effect.

Ingredients responsible for bioavailability

Advances in formulation and vehicle science, as well as revisions to existing formulas, have resulted in more attractive drugs and new delivery systems for topical treatments. Microencapsulation of active ingredients or the use of microspheres leads to a slower, controlled release of active ingredients and improved tolerability of the cosmetic product itself.

In order to improve the transepidermal delivery of active components, special components are also used in anti-rosacea preparations. Thus, squalane protects skin lipids from photo-oxidation, restores the lipid barrier of the skin and improves the transport of substances such as vitamins A and E. Polyethylene glycol 400 increases the solubility of active substances and their bioavailability. Has soothing and moisturizing effects.

Peelings for rosacea

Naturally, professional care for skin with rosacea cannot be limited to beauty treatments. Even the most sensitive skin, prone to rosacea, needs the rejuvenating and healing effects of superficial acidic chemical peels with age. Let's look at the acids indicated for use on sensitive skin with rosacea.

Phytic acid obtained from rice bran is non-toxic and very stable. Even in high concentrations, this acid does not require neutralization. Slowly penetrating the skin through hydrated areas, phytic acid forms insoluble metal salts, which are removed in subsequent peeling stages. Having a stressful effect, phytic acid stimulates skin renewal processes, since the peeling procedure provokes a powerful oxidative process, including due to a sharp decrease in skin acidity, reducing the amount of “active forms” of metals that increase under these conditions and helps curb inflammatory reactions. The binding of copper ions inhibits pigment formation, which is essential for reducing the risk of post-inflammatory pigmentation.

Azelaic acid and its derivatives (azeloglycine) have a specific anti-inflammatory effect - it reduces the production of pro-inflammatory reactive oxygen species by a special type of leukocytes (neutrophils). The anti-inflammatory activity of azelaic acid helps reduce inflammation and erythema, counteracts inflammatory reactions in the epidermis and dermis.

Lactic acid - affects the processes of regeneration and renewal of the skin, exfoliation of dead cells. Has a strong moisturizing effect.

Treatment of rosacea requires an integrated and ongoing approach. The vascular nature of this disease dictates the need for drug therapy. However, with the use of highly effective cosmetics, you can achieve a significant improvement in the condition of skin suffering from rosacea and prevent the worsening of the condition of the skin.

First published: Les Nouvelles Esthetiques Ukraine, No. 3 (79), 2013, pp. 102-104