Correction of secondary dry skin during the cold season

A feeling of tightness, roughness, uneven skin compaction, increasing sensitivity and itching, local erythema and flaking - this is a familiar list of symptoms of dry skin in winter. A common mistake is to leave the care that satisfied you in the summer during the cold season. Since the skin is more demanding in winter, clients often turn to a dermatologist-cosmetologist to diagnose their skin condition and select care.

When building care strategies, one should take into account the physiological restructuring of the skin for the winter period - the work of the sebaceous and sweat glands. During the cold season, oily skin becomes combination, combination skin becomes normal, and normal skin becomes dry. The last one is the worst - it requires extra attention.

A common mistake is to leave the care that satisfied the client in the summer during the cold season.

Pathogenesis of secondary dry skin

The stratum corneum is the most superficial, functioning as a barrier. It prevents transepidermal evaporation of moisture, protects against the influence of environmental factors, urban pollution, and promotes adaptation to seasonal weather changes. Let's imagine the stratum corneum as a brick wall with cement, where the bricks are corneocytes, and the cement is the lipid matrix. Part of the liquid is contained in the corneocytes themselves and in combination with low molecular weight water-soluble amino acids. This liquid is called natural skin moisturizing factor (NMF). Moisture is necessary for the stratum corneum to maintain softness, elasticity, barrier function and biological processes.

When using low-quality, hard products, the “brick wall” collapses as the cement is washed out. This leads to loss of NUPA and epidermal dehydration. It can also lead to aggravation of skin diseases such as chronic xerosis, acne, atopic dermatitis, rosacea, photodamage, and psoriasis. Therefore, cleansing should be active and at the same time gentle, not traumatic to the epidermis, and also perform additional functions - moisturize, nourish, and reduce the signs of skin aging.

Help in the beauty salon

Change the client's cleanser to a softer one - a creamy, oily texture. This formula will prevent damage to the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum and reduce the feeling of irritation and tightness while washing. Avoid large particles in cleansing procedures, such as in scrubs. Large particles damage the stratum corneum, which will lead to increased loss of moisture from the epidermis, thinning, loss of elasticity, and peeling. Give preference to superficial AHA and enzyme peels, gommages with maximum moisturizing properties. For example, mandelic, glycolic, and lactic acid in light superficial peels have an exfoliating and moisturizing effect. It is better to complete the procedure with nourishing creamy masks.

Home Recommendations

The choice of cream for home care is no less important. In winter, the skin needs two-component protection to replenish NUPA and restore the lipid layer. Replace moisturizers with nourishing and softening ones. This texture will protect the stratum corneum from both frost and hot, dry rooms. Depending on the degree of dryness, choose from emollient to dermatological ointments based on natural oils and waxes, which will replace and restore the lipid barrier of the epidermis. It is important to apply the cream in the morning 30-40 minutes before going outside.

In case of damage and chapping of the face, lips, open areas of the body, for example, hands, advise using intensive regenerants - the so-called COLD or SOS cream.

If your client goes to the ski slopes, recommend that he wear a cream with SPF 50+ while outdoors. UV protection in the mountains is no less important than on the hot coast - photo damage and dryness will not be long in coming after a few quick descents.

Interestingly, decorative cosmetics in winter serve as an additional barrier for the epidermis. But you should not use a water-based foundation, as it evaporates and loses its title of “protector”. An excellent alternative is powder or cushion.

At the same time, it is important to maintain dry skin from the inside - eat a balanced diet, including in your diet more foods containing fatty acids, vitamins (especially A and E), microelements, and omega acids. Nuts, olive oil, avocados are foods rich in fat. Recommend that the client reduce the amount of caffeine and alcoholic drinks, but do not forget to drink enough mineral water.