Anti-age therapy taking into account aging morphotypes

As a rule, the main objectives of almost any anti-aging correction are:

• increasing skin tone and elasticity;
• elimination of hyperpigmentation;
• relief leveling;
• restoration of the epidermal barrier;
• improvement of microcirculation and lymphatic drainage;
• elimination of local lipodystrophy (“double chin”);
• creating a frame and tension lines;
• eliminating facial stress on individual zones.

To achieve these goals, aesthetic and medical cosmetic procedures are used. Moreover, their success depends on the consistency and consistency of implementation. The basis of the holistic (integrated) approach to aesthetic correction is the classification of morphotypes of aging by one of the leading modern cosmetologists Inna Kolgunenko. Using pathogenetically based principles of correction, you can select an individual comprehensive program that will give both quick and long-term results, and will also allow you to predict further age-related changes. Let's look at some anti-age correction methods.

Skin peeling

To remove hyperpigmentation, smooth the skin texture, increase its tone and elasticity, the best procedure is peeling. Depending on the active agent (mechanical, chemical, physical) and the depth of impact, the most effective peeling can be selected for each morphotype of aging:

• tired morphotype – combined biomechanical 50-70% ( FILLMED ), combined glycolic-salicylic 50% (Dermaceutic), milky 30% (Mesoesthetic), almond Easy TCA 15% (Skin Tech), mechanical microdermabrasion HydraFacial, fractional photothermolysis (Palomar);
• finely wrinkled morphotype – glycolic 20-50%, combined glycolic with kojic and phytic acids, lactic 20%, Easy TCA 15%, HydraFacial, fractional photothermolysis;
• deformation morphotype – glycolic 70%, combined glycolic-salicylic, salicylic, retinol, almond, TCA 15-20%, HydraFacial;
• muscular morphotype – glycolic 50-70%, combined glycolic-salicylic, milky 30%, almond, mechanical microdermabrasion, HydraFacial, combined glycolic with kojic and phytic acids, salicylic, retinol, almond, TCA 15-20%.

Leather reinforcement

Mesotherapy is used to restore the epidermal barrier, improve microcirculation and lifting. The injection type of reinforcement with mesopreparations is of interest from the point of view of technical accessibility to a wide range of specialists, and is characterized by low risks of complications and side effects, and a short rehabilitation period.

When reinforcing with biorevitalizants and multicomponent drugs, the clinical effect is achieved through the implementation of two effects - pharmacological and puncture itself, which is a consequence of targeted traumatic effects, as a result of which complex processes in the skin provide active compression of the dermal flap.

An adequate pharmacological effect when reinforcing aesthetically significant areas is possible with the appropriate choice of drug. In recent years, to solve a wide range of aesthetic problems, the use of polyrevitalizants (skin boosters), which are distinguished by a complex multicomponent composition, has been updated. Polyrevitalizants are a fundamentally new class of drugs that combine the advantages of biorevitalizants (high molecular weight native hyaluronic acid) and mesotherapy cocktails that have a complex restructuring effect. Such preparations are specially designed for biorevitalization and correction of superficial wrinkles, increasing tone, skin turgor and muscle corset. They have a quick lifting effect, provide a high level of hydration and a visible effect of smoothing the skin texture.

Indications for reinforcement with polyrevitalizants are:

• fine-wrinkled type of aging (whole face);
• tired type of aging (middle and lower thirds of the face);
• deformational type of aging with implicit signs of gravitational ptosis (combination with lipolytic drugs is possible);
• muscular type in the neck area;
• signs of skin atony caused by rapid weight loss;
• reinforcement of individual zones.

Please note: it is very important that polyrevitalizants are registered in Europe as medical products intended for intradermal administration (CE Class III Injectable), which indicates the high efficiency and safety of this mesotherapy agent.

Meso cocktails

For general anti-age mesotherapy, active regenerating and stimulating cocktails are used that improve the quality of the skin. The synthetic and proliferative work of fibroblasts is stimulated, the number of collagen and elastin fibers and matrix increases, microcirculation improves, and oxidative stress is eliminated. Preference is given to cocktails with proven peptides and biostimulins.

Techniques for administering drugs are nappage, papular and retrograde-linear. Course: 4-8 procedures once a week or according to the scheme.

For hyperpigmentation (especially for finely wrinkled and muscular morphotypes), whitening cocktails with tyrosinase inhibitors (RRS® HA Whitening, Mesoline shine) are used, which are introduced using a 1 mm mesoroller and papulally into the spots. Course: 6-8 procedures once a week.

In the lower third of the face (especially with deformed and tired morphotypes), not only traditional tightening, but also lipolytic ready-made cocktails with silicon, hophytol, caffeine, L-carnitine, phosphatidylcholine and deoxycholinic acid are used, as well as ready-made cocktails for the treatment of local lipodystrophy (RRS Cellutrix , Mesoline Bodyfirm). In this case, the skin is folded so that the solution gets directly into the hypodermis. Course: depending on the cocktail, 4-6 procedures are required with a frequency of 7-10 days or 2-4 procedures with a frequency of 10-14 days.

To obtain the effect of skin relaxation while reducing muscle activity, aesthetic medicine today uses a new product - mesotherapy drugs with botulinum-like effects. Dermal filling effect with hyaluronic acid + dermal relaxing effect BoNta 568 (pentapeptide, hexapeptide, octopeptide) is an excellent combination of dermal stimulation and muscle relaxation, especially for patients who, for certain reasons, do not want or cannot undergo botulinum therapy. Also, these procedures prolong the effect of botulinum toxin.

The administration scheme is the same as for botulinum toxin, but it is possible to administer it according to the mesobotox principle - minimum depth in the muscle and in the skin. Course: 4-6 procedures once a week. It is also worth noting that European trends (AMEC Convention 2015) and the economic situation are returning us to the use of mesoscooters in correction. During the needling procedure (or CIT - collagen inducing therapy), collagen synthesis is stimulated, microcirculation is improved, micro-holes are formed for the introduction of bioactive drugs, relief is leveled, and reparative processes are stimulated. In other words, during the procedure there is a pathogenetic effect on the aging process or on age-related structural changes occurring in the skin. Needling has a particularly good effect on the tired morphotype of aging.

The procedure can be performed using dry puncture or with the introduction of mesotherapy cocktails. After the procedure, hyperemia lasts 24-48 hours. If another procedure is needed, it can be done after 4 weeks.

Vladlena Averina , doctor of the highest category, dermatovenerologist at the Zdravitsa Family Medicine Clinic, scientific organizer of the series “Portrait of a Complex Patient”, President of the Association of Aesthetic Gynecology and Andrology, Member of the Scientific Committee of AMWC Monaco

This article is part of the special project Injection anti-aging

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