A new generation of retinoids: retinoic cosmetics

These powerful skin care products have a number of advantages that make them particularly attractive for use in cosmetics. Let’s talk about the use of new generation retinoids in cosmetics and their effects on skin health.

Third generation retinoids

The latest generation of retinoids includes two synthetic substances with retinoid-like effects. The substance tazarotene in the form of 0.05 and 0.1% gel, being a prodrug, is hydrolyzed in the skin to an acid that stimulates nuclear receptors for retinoic acid. Due to its pronounced irritant effect, the drug is used mainly for the treatment of psoriasis, less often for acne.

Adapalene – a derivative of naphthoic acid with retinoid-like effects – is an effective agent in the local therapy of acne (0.1% water-based gel). The adapalene molecule is resistant to sunlight and oxygen (unlike tretinoin group drugs), due to its lipophilicity it quickly penetrates the upper layers of the skin. The therapeutic efficacy of the drug is explained by the fact that the adapalene molecule selectively binds to the nuclear receptors of retinoic acid of the sebaceous hair follicle, which ultimately leads to a decrease in the adhesion of keratinocytes and accelerates their desquamation. The lack of interaction with nuclear receptors of retinoic acid, the stimulation of which leads to peeling and severe dryness of the skin, allows to minimize the side effects observed when using tretinoin group drugs.

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