Forms of modern retinoids
In recent years, doctors have begun to use different types of retinoids more often. Let's look at what retinoids are and what forms there are today.
Evgenia Glebova, cosmetologist, technologist
Cosmetics with retinoids were made popular by the famous dermatologist Albert Kligman (by the way, his father is from Ukraine). He actually discovered the role of retinoids in the treatment of acne with the creation of the drug Resin-A, and also introduced the terms “cosmeceuticals”, “photoaging” and “corneotherapy”.
As they say, accidents are not accidental. While studying the effects of retinol on acne for Johnson & Johnson, Kligman identified its anti-aging properties and in 1969 created a photodamage treatment with tretinoin, which received FDA approval as an anti-photoaging treatment.
Retinoids are natural and synthetic derivatives of vitamin A. They are lipophilic molecules and easily penetrate the epidermis. Their biologically active forms can modulate the expression of genes involved in cell differentiation and proliferation. As is known, retinoic acid (tretinoin), its 13-cis isomeric isotretinoin, as well as various synthetic retinoids are used for therapeutic purposes. While retinaldehyde, retinol and retinol esters, due to their controlled conversion to retinoic acid or their direct receptor-independent biological action, can be used as cosmeceuticals.
“Cosmeceuticals” is a rather vague concept, but nevertheless, drugs that do not belong to the group of drugs, but still exhibit pronounced biological activity without side effects, fit this definition.
In the area of topical retinoids, this excludes retinoic acid and all synthetic retinoids. Accordingly, candidates for the group of topical cosmeceutical retinoids are retinol esters, retinol, retinaldehyde and the oxoretinoid group.
Forms of modern retinoids
RETINOL – pure vitamin A. Increases collagen levels and improves the natural skin regeneration cycle.
RETINALDEHYDE – is closer to retinoic acid in the conversion chain, so its action is much faster.
RETINYL RETINOATE is a direct acting ingredient that does not need to be converted into retinoic acid as it is a hybrid molecule of traditional retinol and retinoic acid.
Modern forms of retinoids provide a pronounced clinical effect of improving skin tone and texture in a short course of constant external use from four to eight weeks. And most importantly, they can be used even for sensitive skin and at any time of the day.