Visage in permanent makeup: how to get away from patterns?

The master of permanent makeup must be a makeup artist

2020-07-13

Makeup is an extremely important part of the work of a tattoo artist. And the neglect of knowledge in this area is absolutely unacceptable for becoming a master in this profession.

In practice, you can often see that most of the training centers in the basic permanent makeup courses devote very little time to the laws and rules of make-up. But not everyone who comes into this profession has experience as a make-up artist or at least an art school.

Experts in the field of permanent makeup notice that beginners experience the greatest difficulties when choosing the shape of a sketch of a future tattoo (especially when tattooing eyebrows), building a proportional shape, and choosing colors. And if a person draws lines uncertainly even on paper, cannot see the asymmetry and doubts the choice of color, what can we say when in his hands is not a pencil or a brush, but a needle.

A permanent makeup master simply needs to develop the skills of an artist, a sense of proportion and color, and master the ability to apply precise lines. That is, the tattoo artist needs to learn this!

Make-up and tattoo: let's look at the features

The fundamental feature of makeup in tattooing can be called the implementation of makeup on certain parts of the face for a long time. After all, highlighting a part of the whole with the help of tattooing, permanent masters must remember that they will inevitably change the expression of the whole face, and this, in turn, will affect the perception of the face by others.

Even when permanent makeup is performed on all areas of the face, it is impossible to talk about the fundamental similarity of permanent makeup with classic makeup. Makeup is performed depending on the style of the person and the situation, it can be changed due to changed circumstances. For example, business makeup will be replaced by evening makeup, and tomorrow the girl will generally apply makeup for a photo session or a wedding one. You can't play with PM like that. Even speaking of “whole face tattoo”, it is understood that permanent makeup is made in the form of eyebrow tattoo, eye tattoo and lip tattoo and does not affect the overall tone of the face, from which classic makeup is just beginning (which every makeup artist will confirm to you).

The fundamental difference described by us most often leads to a number of mistakes made by tattoo artists. We list the most common of them.

When performing eyebrow tattooing, masters often change the shape and color of the eyebrows. Highlighting this important area on the face, the masters change the face as a whole, but sometimes they forget that this accent should not be dominant and it is important to “fit it into the face”. Or, on the contrary, they perform a bright tattoo of the eyes, as a result of which only eyes are visible on the face, and the whole face is “lost”, because the eyebrows absolutely do not correspond to such eye makeup. Therefore, it is very important to choose the style and techniques of tattooing, taking into account these important features.

A master of permanent makeup must be a make-up artist, because in tattooing it is not enough just to measure the face with a ruler or apply the shape according to the template. Determining the “classic” shape of the eyebrows is only the first step, and then you need to be able to choose the one that will decorate a particular face. In various sources (videos, articles on the Internet, etc.) you can find a lot of information on how to build a classic eyebrow shape or an ideal lip shape. And having studied the available sources, the masters, as if by a template, create the same faces with exactly the same “correct” eyebrows. The same applies to absolutely identical lips, the shape of which is considered fashionable at a certain point in time. These forms do exist, we do not argue, but they are more often suitable only for owners of ideal faces (of which there are not very many in reality). And on the face of an “ordinary” person who has natural asymmetry, wrinkles, they will look unnatural, separate from the rest of the face.

When making an eye tattoo or eyebrow tattoo, it is important to take into account the structure of the bones of the face, the features of facial expressions, and asymmetry. The master should ask the client how she usually brings her eyes up, whether she wears glasses, whether she plans to change her hair color. And there are a lot of such nuances. But if the client is in the hands of a professional, the risk of failure is minimal, because for an experienced makeup artist these nuances lie on the surface, and the results are predictable.

In sufficient detail, we described makeup techniques in tattooing in one of the previous articles. In this material, we will try to give some tips for beginners when choosing the shape and color scheme in tattooing.

Individual form: how to achieve perfection?

The first thing to do when starting to choose the shape of the future tattoo is to choose a sketch shape that best suits a particular person. What is needed for this? Firstly, to evaluate the individual features of appearance (determine the shape of the face, identify dominant features, select the optimal intensity of the part of the face being changed or emphasized by the tattoo).

Small “life hacks” developed by experienced craftsmen can help in determining the shape of faces.

The face is considered round if the width and length of the face are almost the same, and the widest part of the face is in the cheek area;
Your client's face is oblong if the forehead, cheekbones, and lower jaw are nearly the same width;
The same width of the forehead, cheekbones and lower jaw (especially if it has a massive jaw) are considered features of a square face;
A heart-shaped face tapers towards the chin (i.e. always wider at the forehead), while the forehead and cheekbones are the same width;
If the widest part of the face is in the cheekbones or temples, the face tapers towards the chin, and the forehead is low and narrow, then it can be argued that the face has a diamond shape;
If the forehead is wider than the chin, the cheekbones protrude, and the face gradually narrows to a narrow oval, this is an oval face.

Dominant facial features

The tattoo master should be able to determine the dominant facial features, as well as his types. This will help and facilitate the selection of the best form of tattooing. Many people make the mistake of thinking that a large nose or protruding chin is too visible and impossible to "hide". Harmony can be easily achieved, it is enough to switch attention from one facial feature to another. A properly selected form of tattooing will help to divert the observer's gaze to the face as a whole, without allowing you to focus on any particular detail. This technique is very often used by makeup artists in classic makeup.

Eyebrow tattoo form

The value of eyebrow tattooing is difficult to overestimate, because with its help you can change both the visual shape of the face and its expression. How to achieve harmony and balance of eyebrow tattooing with other parts of the face? Here, too, there are a few rules.

Large eyes won't go well with overly thin brows, especially if the client usually wears heavy eye makeup. In this case, it is better to make the eyebrows darker or thicker along the lower border.

For almond-shaped eyes, masters with experience advise choosing the shape of an eyebrow with a break, since with round eyebrows such eyes will also appear rounder. If the client has fine facial features, it is better to choose eyebrows with a thinner shape and intense color. If the client asks not to reduce their thickness, then you can give the eyebrows a lighter shade so that they are in harmony with the delicate features of the face.

By changing the shape of the eyebrows, you can divert attention from an overly prominent nose. Straight or light brows won't do this, brows with a high kink will do the job better. Thickened eyebrows will visually reduce the nose even more. By adding thickness to the brows, you will not only help the client balance the facial features, but also make the eyes more expressive.

High cheekbones look spectacular with any type of face. In classic makeup, they can be emphasized with blush. Permanent makeup has its own version of emphasizing the cheekbones - you just need to give the eyebrows a shape that follows the contours of the cheekbones. In this case, you will get eyebrows with a high break and a tail directed higher than usual.

Large lips or a pointed chin take attention away from the eyes and direct it to the lower part of the face. The rounded shape of the eyebrows will help to balance them.

The main goal of eyebrow tattooing is to achieve harmony of the features of the entire face and emphasize the merits. Large facial features are more consistent with expressive eyebrows, while thin ones are less intense. The intensity of the eyebrows is usually affected by the distance to the eyes: the closer the eyebrows are to the eyes, the more expressive they seem.

Eyebrows and eyes together define the boundaries of the eye area: too close to each other, the eyebrows visually reduce the eyes. You can make your eyes more open by raising the lower border of the eyebrows.

The basic rule of color: the darker, the more expressive. Light or dark eyebrows have a very strong effect on achieving balance in facial features.

And the main thing to remember is that the main goal of makeup in tattooing is to achieve harmony and emphasize the dignity of the face. Good luck in defeating this goal, dear masters!