Realistic hairs: the secrets of the PM eyebrow technique from Anna Zabolotnaya

Anna Zabolotnaya , Head of the Biotek International Academy of PM and Aesthetic Dermo-Pigmentation (Russia), certified artist, international class master teacher in permanent make-up, aesthetic dermopigmentation and trichopigmentation, winner of the first Contour of the Century competition (2003), judge of permanent make-up championships in Russia and abroad, lecturer at the International University of PM (Milan, Italy) (Russia)

The popular hair technique is one of the most difficult in PM. To work with it, you must be highly qualified, know different methods and techniques of correction and arm yourself with knowledge of color. Follow a few practical tips and you will master the technical skills needed to master the realistic Spikelet technique.

Continuation. Start here

Fundamentals of color

So that the color of your mix does not come as a “surprise” to you, it is important to remember how different colors affect each other: which ones are mutual brightness enhancers, and which ones are mutual neutralizers.

Bright pigments look more expressive in combination with dark ones. When using contrast to create depth or volume, remember that it will be taller in the foreground and almost invisible in the background.

To create voluminous eyebrows, you will need flesh-colored pigments. Working with them is very difficult and requires the strictest observance of proportions and control over application.

Do not abuse the creation of highlights with the help of light pigments. Incorrect placement of the highlight can not only negate all the work on creating volume, but also give the entire eyebrow an artificial, drawn look.

In the presence of an old low-quality PM that needs to be eliminated, pigments of camouflage shades are used. However, old permanent makeup can serve as a backdrop for new work. And shading with a drawing in one key will give tenderness to the work. In this case, no contrast is needed. Instead, we have to create a haze effect. This technique is suitable for clients with very fine hairs.

Before and after the procedure. Photos provided by the author

When creating voluminous eyebrows, it is also important to know how different types of lighting affect our perception of objects. For example, a face in shadow is illuminated by diffuse light, which is characterized by weak contrast, blurry transitions from light to shadow, and fuzzy edges of the shadow from the object itself. If the object is under direct rays of light, then we, on the contrary, will note a strong contrast and a distinct transition from light to shadow.

In diffused light, the texture of the hair is visible throughout the head. In direct light, the texture of the hair is well defined, but only visible in a small area.

Draw a Sketch

Before you start injecting pigment, it's helpful to sketch your work on the client's face using special pencils. Biotek's permanent makeup pencils have been in production since 2012. The composition of the pencils includes a pigment that is fully consistent with the pigment for permanent makeup, which is in the bottle. Thus, the master can show the client the result even before the start of the PM procedure.

Typically, the creation of a sketch begins with determining the proportions of the eyebrow, its height and width, as well as the direction of the hairs that are characteristic of this client. After that, the entire shape of the eyebrow is filled with hairs.

Then the form is filled with chiaroscuro, that is, it acquires the features of a three-dimensional object. Here it is important to note and work out precisely those details that are most important for this client.

They complete the sketch after highlighting significant places in the foreground with spectacular lines. At the same time, they try not to touch insignificant details at all.

Despite its popularity, the hair technique remains one of the most difficult in PM. To master it, certain skills are required, indicating the highest qualification of the master. First of all, such a specialist must be able to draw, that is, fully control his working hand and typewriter. Moreover, he should feel the machine almost like his own hand, determining the need to increase or decrease pressure without visual control. Such a master clearly sees where the shadows and highlights should be in order for the subject to be drawn to look three-dimensional. In addition, the PM specialist must highlight the main details at a glance and be able to correctly break down the work into stages. And finally, no amount of skill can turn a drawn 2D object into a naturally 3D one unless the artist has the talent to “breathe life” into their work.

Create a sketch

A matter of technology

The good news is that all of this can be learned. Here are some practical tips to help you master the technical skills needed to master the Spikelet technique.

Begin by daily drawing horizontal and vertical lines on paper at equal distances from each other. Practice both moving towards you and moving away from you. Learn to make fast and slow (“light” and “heavy”) lines with your eyes closed. Move from straight lines to parallel curves, circles, ellipses, etc. Learn how to draw slanted lines from left to right and vice versa, and how to create mirrored lines. Bring to perfection the drawing of circles, and then the drawing of identical circles.

As you follow these instructions, try doing it at different paces.

Graphic exercises

Having achieved confident results on paper, switch to latex. Working with the machine will allow you to explore the possibilities of different needles. When training on latex, do not limit your actions to only the above. Design and implement your own exercises. Learn to find and focus on the most important details.

Experienced teachers advise students to supplement daily practical training with imaginary ones. It turns out that mental actions performed in the head contribute to the processes of fixing practical skills in the corresponding parts of the brain, which significantly accelerates the acquisition of the required level of skill.

Finally, I want to give useful advice to novice PM specialists: we all know that great masters are distinguished by their own “handwriting”, for which they are usually appreciated. But if you want to find your own style, to achieve creative independence and originality - try to postpone this search, at least until the moment when you have mastered the classical methods and techniques of PM.

If you eventually realize that PM is your true calling, you will inevitably develop your own original style. After all, a true master always follows his own imagination!

The material was first published in Permanent No. 1(9)/2018