Permanent Eye Makeup Rules: Fashion and Techniques

What does the phrase “expressive look” mean to you? Which eyes do you think are expressive? It is clear: how many people, so many opinions. For some, a languid look will be expressive, for someone - decisive. Others mean big eyes by this, while others generally evaluate expressiveness by eye color - brown, for example. Is there a fashion in the design of the eyes? What eye makeup rules does she dictate to create this or that image? And does it somehow affect modern permanent makeup techniques? Let's try to figure it out.

The second half of the last century (until the end of the nineties) was remembered for its distinct, soaring arrows, which either increased or decreased, but still continued to dominate the face. The beginning of this millennium gave rise to a boom in everything natural and natural, and feathering has replaced the arrows.

All this fashion trends have not bypassed permanent eye makeup. Until recently, masters operated with only two techniques: arrows and staining of the inter-ciliary edge. The shape of the arrow was selected (and is still being selected) depending on the shape of the eye: thin, wide, long, short, etc. When applying permanent arrows, it is possible to use pigments of various shades - black, brown, green, blue. The choice of the master depends on the desire of the client and the laws of color. With the help of the arrow, you can give the eye an almond shape, visually open it, enlarge it, and correct minor imperfections. However, compared to shading, the line makes the look somewhat aggressive.

Staining of the inter-ciliary edge looks more natural, but only accentuates the eyes, without giving the opportunity to radically change their shape. For this reason, owners of large and too bulging eyes rarely resort to such a technique, because the eyelids “summed up” with its help will only enlarge the eyes even more, making the look inappropriately surprised.

It was the fashion for naturalness that made its own adjustments, thanks to which the shading technique began to develop, which implies a blurry outer edge, the so-called “plant”. The optimal width of shading on the eyelids is 2-3 mm. Wider shading is also possible, but it will offset the desired effect of naturalness. The option of a wider shading is suitable for people with bulging eyes, because such shading will help to visually reduce the eyes and “remove” them deep into the orbit.

Narrow shading is recommended for owners of low superciliary arches, when the upper eyelid is partially covered by a skin fold. But to abandon this technique is with deep-set eyes, otherwise they will seem even smaller.

Like an arrow, professionally executed shading can create an almond shape and visually enlarge the eyes, while its presence will be imperceptible even from a fairly close distance. But unlike the arrow, during which options are possible - to make it a little longer or a little shorter, or to draw it just above the ciliary edge, shading is strictly “tied” to the edge of the eyelashes and does not imply any deviations. When working with this technique, masters most often use black, brown, blue or green dyes.

First you need to create a contour by drawing a very thin line of undiluted paint directly along the edge of the upper eyelid close to the eyelashes. The contour is best done with a “unit” needle, because it paints over the skin to the greatest depth, giving, accordingly, the darkest color. The shading should be darker near the lash line and fade away as you move away from it. How is this effect achieved? To do this, you need to take several caps and in each of them, using a mix, create the necessary shade - from dark to light. Directly shading is drawn with a “three” or “five” (the latter, as a rule, is used in cases where the width of the working surface of the eyelids is large enough). Shading is performed in circular or spiral movements, making it slightly narrower at the inner edge of the eye and slightly expanding towards the outer edge. To avoid mixing paint from different caps, it is recommended to change the tubes of the machine after each shade.

The lower eyelid, as a rule, does not require a clear contour at all, and shading is usually performed without much gradation, with a light shade of the selected pigment. To do this, use the needles "three" or "five".

The most modern version of permanent makeup of the eyelids using the shading technique is to create the effect of colored shadows. It is performed in several ways: by shading with one paint, from darker to almost transparent, or by using more complex transitions involving several shades.