Forms in permanent makeup: we take into account image features
Client Requests and PM Master Selection
The same shape of the eyebrow does not always suit everyone, moreover, it may look awkward depending on the type of activity or lifestyle of a person.
Olena Onufriychuk , PM master, make-up artist-stylist, international make-up master, certified make-up judge of Ukraine, bronze medalist of the World Championship in hairdressing art in the body art nomination (Paris, 2010), graduate of the Ukrainian branch of the International Training Center Bogomolov` Image School (2010)
Thin, thick, dark, light, sable ⎼ eyebrows are different. Fashion dictates its canons, and we meet more and more women with the same lines above the eyes. Of course, we perform high-quality, beautiful permanent eyebrow makeup, sometimes, unfortunately, forgetting that the same form does not always suit everyone, moreover, it may look awkward depending on the type of activity or lifestyle of a person.
The goal of working with a client in the beauty industry is to make sure that he leaves the master completely satisfied and brings a lot of his friends. What does it mean? This means to satisfy his needs, and for this it is necessary to correctly understand what the client is guided by
In permanent makeup, a lot of attention is paid to the construction of forms in accordance with the morphological features of the structure of the face. It is very important to be able to correctly “read the face”: the structure of the eyelid, the location of the eyebrow, to see its shape, which can be decomposed into a lot of components, such as thickness, angle of elevation, the shape of the line itself, etc. Today, this is taught by eyebrows - a relatively new science, which was isolated from makeup, the doctrine of the structure of the face. Without this knowledge, it is impossible to achieve a positive result, since, in addition to eyebrows, there are also eyes, nose, mouth and other parts on the face that must be considered and analyzed when working with an eyebrow. But now about something else...
How to satisfy the client, how to correctly understand what he wants from us? To answer these questions, it is necessary to clearly understand who our client is, in what environment of communication he enters, who he works for, what character traits he needs to show in his professional activities. And therefore, the client's requests can be completely bipolar, that is, depending on the social group, one and the same client can be offered completely different solutions for the PM of eyebrows, arrows and lips ⎼ in accordance with his proposal, based, of course, on the natural morphology of the face.
Customer Requirements
Functionality. This requirement will be put forward by clients who work 24 hours a day, who have little, or rather no time for daily makeup, and an extra half hour of sleep in the morning is a huge bonus for them. These are lawyers, marketers, business people, bank and office workers, government officials, senior managers, etc. In this case, permanent makeup should look like a business makeup, taking into account the dress code, which does not require tinting, maximum ⎼ lip gloss . For a direct sales client, the PM may be more contrasting to highlight facial features (to communicate with customers). Permanent eyebrow makeup for a business woman is a contrasting broken shape raised above the eye; the arrow is clear and elegant; PM lips correct their color within the natural palette, with an emphasis on elegant shades, there may be a lipstick effect.
Individuality. In this category, I would include clients whose eyebrow shape and color defy any logic and any canons of building the correct shape and color principles. These are clients who want to stand out from the crowd in any way. I mean the positive pole of individuality, and not the trashy work of negligent masters. Such a client is quite complicated, since his request may not coincide with our understanding of the beauty of eyebrows, lips, arrows and their role on the face, go against the knowledge of color and morphology. It can be purple, burgundy shades on the lips, very black eyebrows of an incredible shape, with a high rise, creative arrows in an oriental style. Usually this category includes people of creative and unusual professions. A client with such a request in the professional life of PM masters is not so common, and the main question in working with such a client is how long the profession chosen by him is.
Beauty and, as a part of it, sexuality. Here, the first thing to start from is the ideal proportions of the face, the second is the ideal of beauty that our client aspires to, and the third is a refreshing color palette. The client can show a photo depicting the desired shape and color, our task is to match the desired shape with the face and the ability to complete the task, and most importantly, determine how harmonious this shape will be on this face. Here our knowledge of makeup and color should already work. Who can come with such a request? These are women working in areas that do not require a strict dress code, or simply wanting to raise self-esteem and add vitality, or the age category of clients. In this case, the PM should perform corrective functions, bringing any face closer to ideal proportions, ⎼ lift the eyelid, open the eyes, correct the overhanging eyelid, fill the shape of the lips, making their color healthier and fresher.
Eyebrows "high flight"
There is another category of clients that I would like to mention. These are people of high social status, the requirement of which will be the maximum naturalness and naturalness. Often these are public people: politicians, artists, business women, for whom the services of a makeup artist are a common thing, but in everyday life they must also be impeccable.
This requirement is very close to the request for beauty in terms of form, but in this case there are more restrictions on the choice of colors and the difficulty of matching it to the natural color of the hairs or lips. The so-called permanent makeup without permanent makeup, when the client can be sure that, leaving the master, he will not draw attention to his face either by color or shape of the PM. In my opinion, this is the most difficult work that requires a serious and thoughtful approach and a certain amount of knowledge in various fields - from pigmentology to psychology.
I would like to dwell on one more factor that cannot be attributed anywhere. This is a positive attitude towards life, or an active life position. Let me give you a simple example: a positive person comes to you with a bunch of jokes in his luggage, with an amazing sense of humor and eyebrow tails down. There is a terrible dissonance of perception due to the discrepancy between the role and external data. In this case, there is no doubt about parting with "fallen eyebrows" and drawing a completely new, positive form. That's the right decision.
All the listed requests-requirements of the client must be compared with the contents of his cosmetic bag, with what a person is used to, this is very important in determining the color scheme of the work. It is better to see the color of the usual eyebrow pencil and your favorite lipstick once than to wonder if you understood the verbal description of the warm shades of cold pink correctly.
The influence of fashion on the shape and color of the PM should be minimized by the master, even contrary to the opinion of the client, unless the fashionable form is not his natural and most harmonious for this person. Modern fashion for wide, even dark eyebrows, male-type eyebrows - wartime eyebrows (remember the 40s of the last century), when men went to the front, and women in their absence performed male functions. Will such an eyebrow be harmonious on a face with small features? If the fashion for thin, most feminine eyebrows comes, then the category of wide-faced and large-sized clients immediately falls out of such a “fashionable” circle.
The result of the work of the PM master, which satisfies any of the above requests from clients, should be based on the consistency of the shape and color for a given face, the harmony and aesthetics of the perception of the head (not only the face, but also the hairstyle) as a whole, taking into account national makeup features.
The article uses the knowledge gained at the Bogomolov` Image School and at the author's seminars by N. Voronova.
The material was first published in Permanent