Eyebrow permanent: the main mistakes of a novice master

Viktoriya Lisitskaya, master of PM (experience ⎼ 7 years), cosmetologist, methodologist of the European Beauty Business School "Cosmotrade", winner of the championship "Permanent style of Ukraine" in the nomination "Colored arrow with shading" (2015), speaker of the scientific and practical conference on permanent make-up "Malyovnicha Krasa", speaker of the scientific-practical conference on permanent make-up within the framework of the exhibition "InterCHARM-Ukraine 2017", speaker of the conference on permanent make-up Inside Color pro

The desire for professional excellence is the natural desire of every master. Let's figure out what we might be doing wrong, and certainly eliminate errors in our work.

A work can be called high-quality if it meets three criteria:

• well-chosen sketch, which takes into account the features of the client's face;
• harmoniously chosen color in accordance with the color type of the client;
• uniformity and ease of spraying.

When a person looks at the eyebrows, the first thing that is perceived is the shape - how harmoniously the eyebrows fit into the face. This step is very important. Even the right color and technically perfect work will not look harmonious if the form is built in violation of the rules of make-up.

Sizes and shapes

What are the main mistakes beginners make?

Too narrow eyebrows (photo 1). When a client asks to make two thin stripes, it is assumed that the coloring over them will be quite dense. Otherwise, that is, with a light, airy coloring, they will be lost on the face. In this case, the naturalness of the work will be lost.

Too wide eyebrows. Now social networks are full of photos of beautifully drawn make-up eyebrows, but they look relevant only against the background of fairly bright makeup, and this must be taken into account. They are not always appropriate on a face without make-up, and our clients do not wear “war paint” 24 hours a day. You also need to understand that we are doing work for some long time (1.5–2 years). During this time, the tastes of the client and fashion may change, and it will not work to immediately wash off the eyebrows.

Tails raised above their shape (photo 2). Often clients ask the master to draw eyebrows above their anatomical shape. In most cases, this is dictated by the desire to visually lift the eyelids when they are lowered. But in reality, everything happens exactly the opposite. By drawing the eyebrows higher, we leave even more space between the eye and the eyebrow, in this case the eyelid looks even more massive.

Massive heads with a very narrow tail always make the face frown, and very long tails visually fill up the eyebrow and create the “Pierrot effect” (photo 3).

Colors and techniques

After perceiving the shape, our eye evaluates the color. Among the main mistakes in the selection of colors are the following:

• the choice of unnecessarily cold and dark tones. Excessive brightness adds age and makes the face rough. Grays without a touch of brown tend to acquire bluish tints over time;
• the use of low-quality pigments, which in a year and a half go into red shades (photo 4).

The third, very important condition for beautiful work is the technical side of introducing the pigment into the skin.

Errors:

• too dense coloring, deepening. Such works often take on a leaden hue;
• errors in technique that lead to unnecessary trauma, and, as a result, during healing, most of the pigment comes out with a crust. There may be several reasons for this: a traumatic device, insufficient fixation and tension of the skin during operation, the wrong choice of needle and pigment for a particular skin type;
• unevenness, spotty coloring. Again, there may be several reasons: incorrect fixation and tension of the skin, the master may have problems with the uniformity of hatching, that is, in some part of the stroke, the master deepens the needle. Also, the cause may be a malfunction of the equipment, when the device is unstable and changes its power and penetration depth.

Analysis of your mistakes will help to significantly improve the quality of work. It is important to understand the cause of a problem in time and eliminate it.

More grateful clients and beautiful works!