Alopecia and permanent makeup: important aspects in the work of the master

Zhenya Denizeri , international-level master trainer in permanent makeup, master trainer in removing low-quality PM and tattoos, official trainer of the Svyatoslav Otchenash team in Turkey, representative of the Biodermalogic MTDERM Germany brand in Turkey, founder and president of Jenya Permanent makeup ART studio & academy academy, speaker and jury member of permanent make-up contests, founder of a project to help people with alopecia in social adaptation, founder of the J-line brand (collections of this clothing brand are adapted for medical professionals and beauty professionals), organizer of master classes in Turkey for beauty professionals, Kodi profesional brand official in Turkey, Adi Shendel official trainer and A & İ Shendel product representative in Turkey

Increasingly, clients with varying degrees of baldness come to an appointment with a permanent makeup master. Moreover, women among them are by no means less than men. Let's see what alopecia is and how to help a person cope with his problem.

Alopecia is a multifactorial disease characterized by a violation of the hair growth process. If we consider total alopecia, then the main cause of hair loss in this case is a genetic predisposition, that is, the “friend or foe” control factor is violated in the immune system, as a result of which self-destruction and rejection of hair as a foreign body begins. Thus, in a few months there is a complete loss of hair. Each type of this disease has its own causes and consequences.

Let's look at the types of alopecia. Unfortunately, there is no specific risk zone or ways to prevent the disease, everyone can be affected by it - both adults and children, and the reasons can be very different - from stress, taking various medications to pregnancy.

Scarring alopecia

It has an irreversible character due to the destruction of hair follicles, due to inflammatory, atrophic and scarring processes in the skin.

Causes of the disease:

1. Hereditary factors and congenital diseases (ichthyosis, skin aplasia, pigment incontinence).
2. Autoimmune and other systemic diseases (discoid form of lupus erythematosus, limited and systemic scleroderma, dermatomyositis, amyloidosis, scarring pemphigoid, sarcoidosis).
3. Lipoid necrobiosis is the destruction and necrosis of cells and tissues due to an abnormally large deposition of fat in them.
4. Lichen planus, fungal skin infections (trichophytosis) and some infectious diseases.
5. Abscessing perifolliculitis, epilating and keloid folliculitis, characterized by an inflammatory process in or around the follicles.
6. Tumors of skin appendages, squamous and basal cell skin cancer and some other diseases.
7. Mechanical, thermal injuries, chemical and radioactive damage, purulent inflammation.

The final skin manifestations of these diseases is the formation of scars and the death of hair follicles in these areas.

Types and degrees of hair loss in men and women

Non-scarring alopecia

It accounts for 80 to 95% of all hair diseases. The etiopathogenesis of this group, unlike the previous one, remains poorly understood. Most likely, different types of diseases of this group are based on different mechanisms, although the causes and triggering factors in almost all types are the same in most cases. All types of non-scarring alopecia are united by the absence of a previous skin lesion.

Causes of non-scarring type alopecia:

1. Immune and autoimmune disorders, which have played a leading role in recent years. They lead to the formation of immune complexes and autoaggression of the body in relation to the hair follicles. These disorders occur both independently and in combination with some autoimmune diseases - chronic lymphocytic thyroiditis, vitiligo, hypoparathyroidism, adrenal insufficiency.
2. Genetic predisposition due to a gene that predisposes to inadequate biochemical processes in the skin and increased sensitivity of follicle receptors to androgens.
3. Diseases and disorders of the function of the endocrine glands, various metabolic disorders, including amino acids, proteins and trace elements - selenium, zinc, copper, iron, sulfur.
4. Acute stressful conditions and long-term negative psycho-emotional impact, leading to spasm of peripheral vessels and malnutrition of the follicles.
5. Vegetative, cerebral and other types of disorders of the sympathetic innervation of the scalp and face, leading to disorders of blood microcirculation in the skin vessels. From this point of view, chronic neurotic and acute stressful conditions, long-term repeated negative psycho-emotional effects, chronic inflammatory processes in the nasopharynx, larynx and paranasal sinuses, chronically enlarged and painful submandibular lymph nodes, osteochondrosis of the cervical spine, neuritis of the occipital nerves are of great importance. All this is an irritant of the upper cervical nerve sympathetic nodes that innervate the scalp.
6. Diseases of the digestive system, leading to a deterioration in the absorption of nutrients and trace elements.
7. Exposure to certain drugs (cytostatics), acute and chronic industrial or household intoxication with chemicals (mercury, bismuth, borates, thallium), exposure to radioactive radiation.

Classification of non-scarring alopecia

The classifications of non-scarring alopecia proposed today are fuzzy, they are based on signs of a mixed nature - both the main external clinical manifestations and causative factors. The most convenient classification is the division into alopecia:

• diffuse;
• focal, or nested, or circular alopecia;
• androgenetic.

Before and after the procedure. Author's works

Diffuse alopecia can occur as a result of physiological hormonal changes in the body during puberty, pregnancy and lactation, in menopause. In the first two cases, excessive hair loss is not considered pathological and is transient after hormonal levels stabilize. Under the influence of various provoking factors, it can be more or less pronounced.

Diffuse alopecia is characterized by rapid hair loss of varying degrees, uniform throughout the head. Loss of all hair is extremely rare. Diffuse alopecia is divided into:

• anagen, which occurs during the period of active hair growth;
• telogen - hair loss in the resting phase of the follicles.

Most often, diffuse alopecia is provoked by a stressful condition, the use of narcotic drugs, certain medications and contraceptives, a lack of trace elements, especially with hidden iron deficiency in women with menstrual irregularities, as well as in people who have undergone gastrectomy, due to poor absorption of iron due to lack of vitamin B12.

Alopecia areata in women and men occurs with the same frequency. It accounts for about 5% of all skin diseases. Single (at the beginning) symmetrical foci of hair loss have a round or oval shape and appear more often in the occipital region. They tend to grow and merge, resulting in large areas of baldness, the edges of which reflect cyclicity. The course of alopecia areata in most cases is benign and proceeds in three stages. In particular, these are:

1. Progressive, during which the hair falls out not only at the site of the lesion, but also in the border zone with it. This stage lasts from four months to six months.
2. Stationary - the cessation of the formation and merging of new foci of alopecia.
3. Regressive - restoration of normal hair growth.

Depending on the area of damage and the nature of the course, the following forms of focal alopecia are distinguished:

• benign, described above;
• malignant, which includes subtotal, total and universal forms.

The subtotal form is characterized by a slow progressive course. At the same time, the number of areas and their area not only gradually and slowly increase, but are also combined with the loss of eyelashes and hair in the outer areas of the eyebrows.

With a total form, all hair on the head and face falls out within three months. If the hair is restored, then this process lasts for years and occurs in the reverse order: eyelashes, eyebrows, face. Hair on the head grows last.

With the universal form, hair is lost not only on the face and head, but on the entire body and limbs.

Androgenetic alopecia accounts for 90% of all causes of alopecia in men and women. This type of baldness is singled out by most authors as an independent one, although in terms of external manifestations it is mainly diffuse in nature and is often combined with oily seborrhea. The disease is associated with a hereditarily transmitted autosomal dominant gene, the function of which is realized, presumably, through mechanisms that affect the action of enzymes in the hair follicles and papillae. These mechanisms lead to increased conversion of testosterone to a more active form and, in women, to estrone. Therefore, the types of baldness in men and women may differ.

Features of working with alopecia

What are the difficulties of working with people who have been diagnosed with a disease such as alopecia? Let's find out the nuances of the work.

Today, for people with alopecia diagnosis, we offer the following services: permanent make-up of eyebrows, eyelids (only for women), trichopigmentation . The procedure is in demand, as hair is perceived as an indicator of masculinity for a man, youth and attractiveness for a woman. Over the years of working with clients diagnosed with alopecia, we have helped over 200 people to adapt socially in society. Approximately five works per month are performed free of charge on a first-come, first-served basis.

If you have a client with this disease, ask him to consult a doctor first. During treatment and during the use of preparations, we do not recommend doing a permanent make-up procedure.

An important aspect of working with patients with alopecia in permanent makeup is caution. The main rule is not to harm, as there are no camouflage hairs.

Stages of work:

1) If you don't feel ready for a perfect job, ask the client for preparation time (I asked my first client for a month).
2) Work on paper and latex.
3) Seek advice from colleagues. Masters often write to us that they have a client with alopecia and they don’t know if they can handle it or not. We always help.
4) If you feel that you are ready, the client has come with confirmation from the doctor that the procedure will not affect the course of treatment, get to work.

5) Ask your client to show pictures before the hair loss started.
6) The layout of the hairs (with alopecia in the eyebrow area) should be done as close as possible to the one that was before baldness.

It should be noted here that male and female layouts differ from each other in the following ways: hair styling for women should be ideal in terms of symmetry, shape, color; the men's should be careless, a little asymmetrical in terms of styling, it is possible to add hairs separately from the eyebrow - a few millimeters lower, for example.

Stages of the trichopigmentation procedure

If a person came to you, it means that this is important for him and you can influence his self-esteem. All clients after the procedure note significant changes for the better in their social life.

In conclusion, I would like to wish my colleagues creative success. Do not be afraid to start working with alopecia, but do not forget to be careful.

The article uses materials from the site http://bellaestetica.ru