Rules of good manners: a complete guide to foundations

Yulia Voron, makeup artist, winner of the Russian Open Championship in makeup “Russian Cup 2012” in the category “Fantasy Makeup”

Foundations are the basis of makeup!

It's hard to imagine good makeup without foundation. It not only improves complexion and hides all imperfections, but also protects the skin from exposure to wind, rain, sun and temperature changes.

Every time a woman looks at herself in the mirror, no matter how perfect her skin is, she finds some minor flaws. Freckles, a blood vessel, a rash - you want to hide them entirely. Therefore, foundation is a product that should ideally hide all imperfections on our face, simply erase them and at the same time be invisible. Many people do not like this remedy, mistakenly believing that it does more harm than good. But if you know the secrets of selection and application, then foundations can become favorites in your cosmetics bag!

Choosing the right foundation among all the variety presented on the cosmetic market is not easy. But without this skill you can’t go anywhere - if you apply any foundation on your face indiscriminately, you can only aggravate the situation. How to choose a tone and apply it so that your skin looks perfect?

A little about the composition of foundations

Any foundation consists of a base (fat and moisture, nutrients and protective substances), powder and pigments. The base provides ease of application, protection, hydration, etc. The amount of powder gives density, and the amount of pigment gives color.

Nowadays, synthetic microfibers are used in foundation products, forming an elastic mesh on the skin that freely allows air to pass through.

Types of foundations by texture and consistency

Makeup base can have different consistencies: fluid, emulsion, cream, mousse, compact cream (stick). You need to choose the texture and consistency of your foundation based on your individual skin characteristics.

Tone-fluid is a liquid foundation with a coverage of 5–25%. It contains more moisturizing components and moisture, less pigment, so it has a low degree of masking. Suitable for any skin as long as it has no defects. Can be used in both everyday and professional makeup. Used for transparent tone technique.

Foundation is a thick, nourishing cream-like product with an average coverage of 25–50%. Excellent resistance to layer-by-layer application. The foundation is suitable for both professional and home use.

Foundation-primer (cream-powder) is a fairly dense base with a coverage of 50–80%. Creates the effect of velvet skin. Does not require fastening. Fixation is recommended only when used on very oily skin. Also suitable for creating makeup that needs to last a long time.

The compact foundation stick is a very dense product with 80-100% coverage. Conceals imperfections, creating the effect of a second skin. Completely covers moles, scars, and pronounced age spots. Not recommended for household make-up. Ideal for television, photo and film shooting, and for the podium. In household make-up it is used locally to disguise skin defects.

There are many types of foundations with additional effects and properties:

BB cream (BB cream: Blemish Balm cream) is a masking and healing cream.

This multifunctional product combines the properties of several cosmetic products. Moisturizing (lotion, cream), smoothing the skin surface (make-up base), evening out skin tone (toning agent), masking defects (corrector, concealer), protection from UVA and UVB sun rays (sunblock), treatment of pimples, inflammation, anti- age properties (special care products). BB cream is usually thicker than regular foundation, less often reminiscent of something between whipped mousse and light cream.

CC cream is a rebranding of the already familiar BB cream. However, the abbreviation itself does not mean “ordinal number”, but a specific action - Color Control Cream (color control). The main emphasis in the new product is on care. In addition, the cream has excellent masking ability, remaining invisible on the skin. It is slightly lighter in density than BB, but withstands layer-by-layer application very well. CC cream will be less noticeable on the skin thanks to the system for adjusting to individual shade.

HD foundation , the latest hit in the cosmetics industry, is a very fine product. The microparticles contained in the cream do not absorb light, but reflect it. This foundation is great for high-resolution photography and video shooting. In everyday life there is no need for such a foundation: the human eye has difficulty distinguishing such subtleties.

A foundation with reflective particles (any foundation that has the word luminous in its name or description). This tone has a “satin” finish. The cream contains reflective particles (microscopic lenses), which helps solve several problems at once. The product removes dark circles around the eyes and gives the skin a soft glow, making it appear healthier and more youthful. Uneven skin texture, fine wrinkles and enlarged pores become less noticeable thanks to optical illusion. And tiny beams of light scattered across the surface of the face smooth out the difference between the natural skin color and the shade of the foundation. Cosmetics creators are happy to experiment with various additives that scatter light. Photochromic pigments, silk proteins, nylon “pearls” or microprisms - such ingredients in the cream’s formulation testify in its favor.

Waterproof foundation . It often happens that you can’t do without waterproof support. At sea and in the pool, in the sweltering city heat, in rainy weather, when shooting in a photo studio (if there are special effects using water), waterproof cosmetics help us out.

Natural and mineral waxes (beeswax, rice bran, paraffin, stearin) and fixing silicone polymers, which are highly volatile, are added to waterproof foundations. Upon contact with air, volatile compounds evaporate, and the applied cosmetics, painted with a waxy, water-repellent film, remain on the face. Modern waterproof decorative products - contrary to stories that they are too “heavy” and even harmful - contain many moisturizing and softening ingredients, such as vitamin E, natural antioxidants, plant amino acids, minerals and oils. However, cosmetologists do not recommend using waterproof cosmetics regularly. Due to the dyes and water-repellent elements it contains, it can be allergenic.

DO NOT BE CONFUSED!

There is another type of long-lasting makeup - “long-lasting” makeup. This is makeup that uses a foundation with a prolonged effect (but not necessarily waterproof). If basic cosmetics last 4–6 hours, then so-called “long-lasting” cosmetics last 8–12 hours. Long-lasting makeup durability is achieved through Long-Lasting and Long-Wearing formulas. Cosmetics have a high pigment content and are made on the basis of highly viscous silicone oils.

How to choose a foundation based on your skin type?

You need to choose a foundation based on your skin type. Therefore, before purchasing a product, first of all, decide on your skin type. In addition, try to objectively assess the general condition of the skin, see all its flaws, even the smallest ones.

Oily/combination skin

The cream should not contain oils, as they can clog pores and aggravate the skin condition. But the presence of absorbents that can absorb excess sebum is welcome. Oily skin needs hydration just like any other. Therefore, the presence of moisturizing components, as well as UV protective factors, will be an additional advantage for the foundation. A good foundation for oily skin should contain antibacterial and sebum-regulating components, such as zinc, sulfur, and vitamins (A, B). Such products do not contain fatty components, as evidenced by the Oil free inscription on the packaging. In order not to overload oily skin, abandon dense textures in favor of lightweight fluids. For local masking of inflammation (and they are often found in those with oily skin) or traces of them, a tone stick is suitable.

Dry/normal skin

Dry skin needs constant hydration. The ideal option is an oil-based product that will prevent moisture evaporation and ensure the correct water-fat balance. Considering that dry skin is characterized by small, unnoticeable pores, it is not necessary to buy thick concealer foundations. Foundations containing hyaluronic acid have proven themselves well. For a long time, it retains moisture in the skin, preventing “drying out” of the applied makeup. It is worth paying attention to a light tinting cream marked “for dry skin” with a high percentage of fats and moisturizers in the composition.

Sensitive skin

It is most difficult for those with sensitive skin to choose a cream. Which foundation should you prefer? The basic rule is a light and hypoallergenic structure that does not irritate the skin. Such products have a light melting texture and contain moisturizing components of plant origin.

Fading (aging) skin

Tonal products with a lifting effect are designed to visually even out and lift the skin, which is why they are often used in anti- aging makeup . Often their formulas contain collagen and elastin or substances that promote its production. Such creams may also contain additional vitamins and may be quite greasy, because aging skin requires additional nutrition. It is worth paying attention to light translucent textures with a satin finish. Excessively matte finishes will only emphasize age.

How to choose a foundation by shade?

You need to try the foundation on an unpainted face and in daylight. Test the foundation on the inside of your wrist, it is a different color from your face. Place a small amount of the test shade on your jawbone, nose, or forehead—the brightest part of your face—and be sure to blend it out rather than leaving it as a stain. And only then evaluate the result. If nothing has happened on this area of your face - it hasn’t darkened, hasn’t turned red, maybe it’s become a little lighter, or you can’t see where you applied the tone - then you’ve chosen the shade that suits you perfectly.

It is also worth considering that the foundation will be absorbed and show its maximum effect on the skin 5-7 minutes after application. Even if in the store it seems that the shade is perfect, it’s worth going outside and once again assessing the result in daylight. If it is difficult to choose between two suitable shades, it is better to choose the lighter one. In France there is even a saying about this: “One tone lighter is 10 years younger!” This technique is especially good when preparing your face for photography. However, too light a cream will make your face pale and sallow. The ideal option is a foundation one tone lighter than your skin.

If you have experience in mixing different shades, then you can take a foundation that is one tone darker than your skin tone and very light. By mixing them, you can achieve the perfect shade.

By the way, when the season changes, I recommend changing your foundation. If you use a mattifying cream in summer and spring, then in the cold season you need to switch to a denser analogue that will not dry out the skin that is already suffering from dry air.