Men's makeup: what does a makeup artist need to know?

Expert advice

2019-09-17
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Makeup is no longer an exclusively female phenomenon. We'll talk to an expert about how to do men's makeup correctly, how it differs fundamentally from women's, and what its key features are.

The technique of male makeup allows you to present the face with more texture and relief, even out the color, hide all color defects, or make the eyebrows or beard more expressive. You can’t do without it, so the ability to perform this type of makeup is important for every makeup artist.

Vika Pisarenko , international class makeup artist-stylist, creative director of the salon direction at Bellmar Centro di Colore and author of the project “ Style School by Vika Pisarenko

What is men's makeup for and where is it used?

Men's makeup is quite simple to perform, but at the same time it is very necessary in certain cases. Most often, this type of make-up is used if the man is a public person and his face often gets into the frame. These could be politicians, TV presenters or artists: people for whom the face is an important component of the image as a whole.

Full-fledged men's makeup does not necessarily include applying foundation and performing facial correction. Quite often, a makeup artist can get by with just CC cream , eyebrow pencil and gel, and lip gloss.

How to do men's makeup?

As a rule, men have thicker skin, which is prone to redness due to changes in mood or expression of emotions. Therefore, if you need to use foundation, make sure that it is as light as possible, but with a high dose of pigment. But I advise you to forget about creams with a high powder content, because the gloss on a man’s face looks absolutely natural. It is best to apply the tone using a damp sponge rather than a brush - this ensures the thinnest layer possible.

It is important to remember that foundation should not be applied to areas of the face covered with stubble. White stains from the foundation on the hairs look very sloppy.

Also, the tone should not be brought to the lash line, because in this case the eyes will appear much smaller. When doing men's makeup, it is imperative to tint the ears and neck, because the skin tone in these areas quite often differs from the complexion. Also, be sure to run the brush along the hair parting line so that there is no obvious difference in color.

To understand how to properly do men's makeup, it is important to decide on its appearance.

Types of men's makeup

There are three types of male makeup that are most often found in the work of a makeup artist.

Makeup for a wedding. At a wedding, the groom is one of the main characters of the celebration, all attention is paid to him and the bride, he is constantly included in the frame. A couple of weeks before the wedding, a man needs to visit a cosmetologist to even out the relief, moisturize and nourish the skin. The day before the wedding, you should not experiment with new shaving products or test new cosmetics so as not to cause irritation.

In this case, it is important to take care of an even complexion and the absence of dark circles under the eyes. Facial correction in men's makeup should be done gently, and the eyebrows should be well combed and corrected on the bridge of the nose.

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that men’s eyebrows are not corrected under the brow line and very rarely corrected in the temporal area. Most often, hairs are removed in the area of the bridge of the nose to avoid a sullen appearance.

It is better to choose the lightest and most translucent foundations for men. I prefer products with low pigment content unless there are prominent scars or blemishes that require more careful correction. These products include Lirene brand BB cream or ViSTUDIO foundation.

Please note that the zygomatic line can be corrected if a man has an indistinct zygomatic bone. And even in this case, I advise you to make correction only for photo and video shooting - with daytime makeup it will catch your eye.

Now let's talk about men's eye makeup. I advise using mascara only if the client has light eyelashes. Give preference to dried mascara in a brown or gray shade so as not to create the feeling of painted eyes. Men with dark hair already have quite expressive eyelashes, so there is no need to add additional emphasis.

Lips should look as natural and natural as possible. I do not recommend making an outline: in this case, the man will look effeminate. Hygienic lipstick will be enough to make your lips look well-groomed and moisturized.

Makeup for TV presenters . Professional makeup for television filming is radically different from ordinary makeup for a special occasion. In this case, you will need almost all the same cosmetic products as for women's makeup.

First, the tone is applied, then the area under the eyes and cheekbone is corrected. One of the favorite products of television makeup artists is the well-pigmented tone from the brand Cinecitta.

TV presenters are allowed to tint their eyes and eyebrows in a beige-brown color scheme so that they do not stand out too much on their face and look natural. It is enough to paint the ends of your eyelashes with dried mascara to make your look expressive.

Make-up artists also prefer to apply lipstick to make a man's lips look natural. Ordinary lipsticks are rarely used even when performing professional makeup for men. In some cases, when a man has an uneven lip contour, the most delicate and unnoticeable application of a pencil in the color of his lips is allowed.

Stage makeup. This type of makeup is necessary for stars before going on stage. Elements of makeup can even be painted tattoos, shaved eyebrows or colored lenses, such as Melovin. One cannot help but recall the stage makeup of Marilyn Manson or members of the band Kiss. In this case, professional make-up artists work with celebrities, who know the features of their image and follow pre-prepared technical maps or agreed upon working conditions.

Do not forget to advise your male clients to visit a cosmetologist from time to time and regularly take care of the skin of their face and lips at home - only in this case will the makeup apply beautifully and look natural.

Photo: Vadim Sery

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