Makeup for magazine photography: what you need to know?
Expert advice
Makeup for photography has a huge number of nuances that are important to consider so that the result pleases all participants in the process. Which ones? Let's look into this issue with our expert.
In this material, we have collected all the practical tips and tricks that will help you create the right makeup for photography for a magazine publication that meets the customer’s requirements. How to prepare for creating an image, how to work with light, what features are important to consider when working in the studio and on the street, and also how to create makeup for the face, eyes and lips step by step.
We'll take a closer look at how to do makeup for photography with our regular expert Svetlana Rymakova.
Svetlana Rymakova , certified makeup artist, makeup artist with extensive experience working with Ukrainian and Russian stars (Jamala, ONUKA, Irina Bilyk and others)
Let's start with the fact that any shooting is painstaking work of a team that brings to life the task set by the customer (in this case we are talking about the editorial office of the magazine). This team, at a minimum, includes a photographer, stylist, makeup artist and hairdresser. Depending on the complexity of the task, additional assistants and other participants in the process may appear.
Preparing for photography
All the nuances of the image: style, clothing, hair and makeup are discussed in advance, so that later on the site you do not have to search for the necessary things and tools. Preliminary preparation makes the task easier and also speeds up the process - in this case, you can enjoy your work without panic. But we don’t rule out the possibility of creative improvisation; let’s be honest – anything can happen on set...
So, when you have discussed what the client wants to see as a result and how the photographer will implement this idea, your time comes. I won’t talk about organizing your workplace: I hope there is no need to remind you about clean brushes, cosmetics and your appearance. Most often, both beginning models and experienced, high-status clients work on shoots for magazines. And you have absolutely no need to blush because of comments about your neatness. Cleanliness and hygiene are the key to your professional reputation, and there is no need to justify your dirty desk by saying that you are a creative person.
Quite often you have to work in parallel with a hairdresser. Agree not to interfere with each other.
Makeup for photography in the studio and outdoors
Before applying makeup, it is very important to find out what kind of light will be used during shooting - the density and brightness of the makeup will depend on this. After all, 30-40% of the brightness will be absorbed by light, if we talk about shooting with flashes and studio light. Daytime diffused light requires softness and naturalness, since colors and shades practically do not change. And the bright sun gives hard shadows, as if frying your face. Remember, a photo is not a dynamic picture. They will scrutinize it and notice all your mistakes, so you need to work carefully and carefully.
Take note:
- any side light emphasizes all reliefs;
- frontal light evenly illuminates the face and helps hide unnecessary reliefs;
- backlight helps highlighters shine and emphasizes the plasticity of the face.
If you lack knowledge and experience, do not hesitate to ask the photographer how best to act in a given situation, and also study the work of photographers you like.
And remember, the person with the camera is your main friend when shooting; you are bound by one task and goal. Listen to his advice and comments, do not be stubborn if they ask you to soften or add something. Inquire about subsequent color correction of the photo so that later the shade of the eyebrows or shadows does not change beyond recognition.
How to do facial makeup for photography
First, prepare your skin. Cleansing and moisturizing will help you apply the tone flawlessly. There should be no peeling on both the face and lips (scrubbing wipes will help you).
Apply the tone all over your face or spot on, it’s up to you. A favorite reference of fashion publications is nude makeup. Light radiance and naturalness require very delicate work with the skin, so do not overdo it with a dense tone. It is advisable to apply all textures as easily as possible. Sometimes one concealer and a subtle touch of product with reflective particles is enough. Remember, too much light can turn your highlighter highlight into a bold highlight that is very difficult to retouch. So be careful when working with any shiny textures.
Pay close attention to the T-zone: highlights in this part of the face do not suit everyone. Just like a lot of powder. Always be on alert, watch everything that happens on the monitor, especially when close-ups are being taken, and even more so macro-plans for beauty.
As for blush, creamy textures are ideal for me: they are easy to blend and always look very natural. As for the craze for competition, as they say, if you don’t know how, don’t try it. Often I see in the photo not a correction, but some kind of “unshavenness”. Make corrections very easily, unobtrusively, only where needed! The photographer himself, using light and shadow, will refine the face if necessary. And brown spots, which some people think make the face look thinner, are a myth.
Don't forget to tint your neck, the area behind the ears and the décolleté area. Sometimes, with the permission of the stylist, it is advisable to tint even the arms and legs. If possible, work all over the skin, especially for lingerie shoots. If there is no possibility, the retoucher will be puzzled by this.
Eye and eyebrow makeup
A separate conversation will be about eyebrows. Their shape and appearance are difficult to correct with subsequent processing, so don’t overdo it and don’t try to make them too dark and wide (the days of fluffy caterpillars are over). Now it’s enough to apply styling gel and draw the missing hairs with a marker. If your eyebrows are too stubborn, eyebrow soap will help keep them in place.
When doing eye makeup for photography, make them a little brighter than you want to see in the photo. Use matte or satin, glossy or pearlescent textures - decide with your stylist. The main thing is to use them wisely.
Lip makeup for photography
Well, in conclusion, let's talk about lip makeup. Regardless of what it is: matte, glossy, with a clear or shaded contour, remember that any texture will look beautiful only on well-prepared, moisturized and nourished lips. Especially if you plan to work with matte lipstick.
To avoid stains and streaks, blot your lips moistened with balm with a napkin. And watch the area where the lipstick borders the mucous membrane of the lips: this is where unsightly folds often gather. If you want to visually enlarge your lips using pencil and lipstick, remember that light can both hide and highlight your efforts. Especially if the texture of the product is shiny.
I will never tire of repeating that photography is a team effort. And even if you are a supermaster, but you work on your own wavelength, the result will not please anyone. Many makeup artists rely too much on photo post-production. But, in my opinion, the minimal intervention of a retoucher is always more valuable.
Don't forget that each publication has a certain style and approach to the picture. Don't ignore these rules, otherwise they will start ignoring you. Remember, today, shooting for magazines continues to be a good way to start a career as a makeup artist and promote your name. It is on filming for gloss that you can develop good taste and competent knowledge of professional techniques.