How to care for gray hair?

Yulia Sedletskaya , rehabilitologist-trichologist of the scalp and hair shaft, developer of procedures for trichological anomalies, leading specialist of the Orising company, speaker of international congresses, member of the All-Ukrainian Association of Trichologists, member of the RHRS (Russian Hair Research Society), owner of the Sedletskaya studio, work experience - 13 years

Let's start with a general question for the entire special project. Do you think the gray hair trend is a positive trend?

I am definitely for aesthetics in this matter. There are people for whom gray hair suits them very well - they look beautiful and stylish. And there are cases when gray hair greatly increases age, the grayness of the face and even small wrinkles become more distinct. But the choice always remains with the person himself, in which image he feels more comfortable. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that gray hair often becomes very hard and porous. The hairstyle looks unkempt, the strands stick out in different directions, and women are even ready to say goodbye to long hair, since the characteristics of gray hair give their image an unkempt appearance.

Caring for gray hair – how is it fundamentally different from caring for natural hair?

In order for gray hair to look aesthetically pleasing, it really requires special care. Definitely, it is necessary to add more moisturizing preparations, since gray hair changes its structure and becomes very dry and hard with age.

How do gray hairs differ in “behavior” and characteristics?

The hair structure includes three layers:

- medula - the inner layer responsible for thermal conductivity, found in the terminal type of hair in the first 10-15 cm from the root zone. In pigmented hair, as it grows, the medula is found intermittently or is completely absent;

- cortex - the middle layer responsible for all physical properties, such as elasticity and color. This layer is rich in amino acids;

- cuticle is the outer, strongest and toughest layer. It consists of 9-12 overlapping keratin scales, held together by a lipid layer.

When hair turns grey, the structure changes. The medula already occupies a leading position and lines the entire hair fiber; the cuticular rows also double in size, which leads to displacement of the cortex. Accordingly, these changes make the hair very hard and dry.

Does gray hair need special care?

Certainly. Gray hair can often turn yellowish over time - this is very unsightly. Therefore, it is necessary to have in your arsenal balms and shampoos that neutralize this effect.

What products should a hairdresser have in his or her arsenal to properly care for a client’s gray hair?

In this case, I would pay attention to caring for the scalp. I see a fairly large number of clients with gray hair, and I see that as the hair changes, the skin also changes: it becomes drier and accumulates a lot of keratinized epidermal cells. Therefore, I take care of it with abrasive and phytoenzyme peels, use oils and lotions that stimulate blood flow to the hair follicles, and I love antioxidants.

Brands are increasingly releasing special lines for gray hair. Do they work?

Often, beauty brands release lines with an anti-yellow effect - of course, they work by making gray hair look more well-groomed. Trichological brands use drugs with anti-aging effects that make hair healthy and beautiful.

Are there special seasonal treatments for gray hair?

There are no particular seasonal ones. There must be constant and high-quality care for the scalp and hair, similar to facial skin care. Yes, yes, don’t be surprised, for hair to be healthy, it needs an integrated and systematic approach.

And finally, I want to say: youth is shiny, elastic hair that flutters in the wind, without a complicated hairstyle. Many women regularly bouffant themselves and use a lot of styling, which makes their hairstyle rough and makes them look older. Advise your clients to opt for moisturized hair, slightly below shoulder length, and light Italian-style waves. And, of course, perfect care!