Anti-aging makeup: top 6 recommendations from a makeup artist
Word from the expert
Anti-aging makeup can work wonders! With simple actions that are available to every woman, you can lose about five years, and this is not the limit.
Step-by-step instructions for anti-aging makeup may seem very complicated at first glance, but if you know the main secrets of makeup artists, everything turns out to be much simpler. In the article we tell you what beauty products are needed to create makeup for “mature” girls, what nuances you should pay attention to, and how to do anti-aging makeup correctly in order to look several years younger.
Vika Pisarenko , international class makeup artist-stylist, creative director of the salon direction at Bellmar Centro di Colore, author of the project “ Style School by Vika Pisarenko ”
Making your face younger without resorting to plastic surgery and injections is quite possible! It is enough to master anti-aging makeup and understand its main principles.
Skin preparation
Firstly, the skin should be well moisturized. It is best to use creams that are suitable for adult skin, but you need to choose them based on the time of year. During the winter season, it is better to moisturize your skin at night, as applying moisturizer in the morning can cause irritation and do you a disservice.
If the outside temperature is below 7°C, it is better to use the cream only in the evening. When it is windy outside, apply the cream an hour and a half before applying makeup and then going outside. During this time, it will be absorbed and begin to perform its immediate functions.
The next stage is performing massage or facial exercises, which play an important role in facial rejuvenation. It is best to do it in the morning, when all the cells of the body wake up.
Face makeup
The base is the first layer that we apply when performing anti-aging makeup. It creates a barrier between the skin and decorative cosmetics, which is not always useful. The base fills enlarged pores, wrinkles and all kinds of unevenness on the face and ensures uniform application of cosmetics. Additional functions that the base can perform: matting, antiseptic effect, additional hydration or nutrition, as well as color correction if there is uneven pigmentation or problem areas on the face (in this case, the base should include a corrective pigment - yellow, purple, beige or green depending on the problem it solves).
A primer is one of the types of base that performs only one function - protecting the skin from environmental factors and decorative cosmetics. As a rule, the base has a silicone base. But modern high-quality bases contain silicone that is not harmful to the face with a texture that allows the skin to breathe. This product can be removed with regular micellar water.
In summer, the primer can be replaced with a mattifying base. During this period, you should avoid silicone products so that silicone does not clog pores and retain moisture, so give preference to cream products.
In the photo: actress Victoria Bilan-Rashchuk. TM Collistar. Makeup: Vika Pisarenko . Hairstyle: Evgeniy Kulik . Clothes: Elena Burenina
For women over 35 years old, I recommend applying a base with reflective particles - they help hide small wrinkles and unevenness and create the illusion of well-moisturized skin. You should not use such products on flaky, seborrheic and problematic skin, because they will highlight all the unevenness and roughness.
Another key to the success of anti-aging makeup is a properly selected concealer. It is the area under the eyes that most often reveals a woman’s age: age spots appear, blood vessels and bruises under the eyes become more pronounced. A concealer in a light orange shade will help remove purple circles under the eyes, and a concealer with a yellowish undertone will help remove blue ones.
What is the difference between corrector and concealer? The concealer is a well-pigmented, liquid, creamy, lightweight corrector. They have the same function – color correction. Concealers have a denser texture, so they are easiest to hide scars, blood vessels and other problem areas. With the help of concealer, for the most part, circles under the eyes and small blood vessels are masked, as well as small pimples and redness near the nose due to chapping or after colds.
Blush always makes the face softer, fresher and younger, so you shouldn’t skimp on it. Blush can be either cream or dry. The most important thing is to get into the tone and preferably use warm shades. Blush will perfectly complement even the most natural makeup.
You should use highlighters only in places where there is no accumulation of facial folds - these are the upper cheekbone, the area under the eyebrow and the bridge of the nose. I categorically do not recommend applying highlighter to the entire face or all areas that are usually highlighted on a young face, because the accents will be placed incorrectly.
With age, the law of universal gravitation lowers all muscles downwards, the face becomes saggy, so the main task of anti-aging makeup is to lift all facial features. For this reason, all correction that is performed on the face should be slightly higher than in standard makeup.
Eyebrow makeup
Thin eyebrows very often show age, because 15 years ago they were in fashion. Many women simply pinched them, and their eyebrows stopped growing. Sometimes a girl who looks good but has thin eyebrows looks older because subconsciously we perceive her as a woman from the last century. Therefore, many makeup artists increase the width of the eyebrows and draw additional hairs to make the face look younger.
I don’t really recommend even modern tattoo techniques, because no one knows what will be fashionable tomorrow or the day after tomorrow. I advise you to limit yourself to organic dyes such as henna, or use eyebrow makeup products: powder pencils, watercolors, shadows, cream textures - now there are a huge number of such beauty products.
Anti-aging eye makeup
To visually rejuvenate your face, I recommend using bright mascaras, pencils and eyeliners. Just use dark green or navy eyeliner instead of black or use colored mascara to feel more youthful and fashionable. Plus, it will add zest to your look.
Women over 35 years old should not use pearlescent shadows. Hiding in facial wrinkles, mother-of-pearl will emphasize them and add two to three years of age. Therefore, shadows should be matte, preferably natural neutral colors. With age, the skin acquires a grayish tint, so bright neon colors do not look very harmonious on it.
In the photo: actress Victoria Bilan-Rashchuk. Makeup, hair: Vika Pisarenko. Photo: Vadim Sery. Earrings: Vita Kulbovskaya
Lip makeup
If lip makeup is chosen incorrectly, it gives away the woman's age most of all. I don’t recommend pearlescent lipsticks - they add age, especially if a woman has drooping corners of her lips. Around the lips of women over 40 years old there are vertical wrinkles into which dark lipstick colors can flow, so you need to be very careful with them.
Conclusion - for anti-aging lip makeup, it is best to use moisturizing lipsticks in natural shades. The main task of lipstick is to refresh, so give preference to neutral and warm colors, even if you have a cool color type.
In recent years, lipsticks have been used without a clear outline. Lip makeup with a shaded contour will make your face look younger and fresher, and you won’t have to worry about your lipstick bleeding. That is why this method is used by makeup artists of Hollywood stars and artists at fashion weeks.
Or, on the contrary, use a very long-lasting lipstick with a well-defined contour. This makeup, despite facial folds and wrinkles, lasts for several hours. But long-lasting matte lipsticks dry out the skin of the lips very much, so I advise you to alternate them with moisturizers. In this case, you can use more saturated shades, especially if the woman has bright hair, such as red or burgundy. Hair color should be harmoniously combined with lipstick.
Fixation of anti-aging makeup
I recommend finishing your makeup with a fixative. This is a unique product, worthy of the highest praise, because it fixes makeup exactly in the place where you applied it. Throughout the day, makeup does not move off, and the face looks younger due to the light shiny effect that the fixative provides.
Knowing these secrets of anti-aging makeup, you can stay young and beautiful for a very long time!
In the first photo: actress Victoria Bilan-Rashchuk. Idea, style: Vika Pisarenko. Hairstyle: Elena Micheli. Clothing, decoration: Alena Oleynik (TM ao2). Photo: Vadim Sery