Style and permanent makeup: we determine the color type of the client

An ideal permanent makeup master should have extensive experience not only in makeup, but also in the field of cosmetology, coloring, and stylistics. We continue a series of publications about the intersection of permanent makeup and other sciences.

Everyone believes that in order to look stylish and modern, you need to focus on clothing, hair or permanent makeup. But the first big step in creating a harmonious image is to determine the color type, which will allow you to choose a color palette for permanent makeup, clothes and everything else.

In order to make it more clear what is at stake, we propose to consider the basic terms and look into the big history of the emergence of the theory of color types.

Each person has an individual combination of eye, hair and skin colors, which is called the color type of appearance (color type).

Currently, there are several theories on the complete definition of the color type, but the most widely used is the American theory of "seasons", which proposes a classification into four main color types of appearance: "spring", "summer", "autumn" and "winter".

Color types

The “spring” color type is characterized by soft pink thin skin, with freckles, prone to redness. Therefore, it is not recommended to use pigments of too warm tones containing a lot of red in permanent make-up.

"Autumn" skin suggests both fairly fair (but with a distinct yellowish or orange undertone) and olive skin. In this case, both cool colors and orange-brown colors are needed for balance, which can add warmth to it and bring it into balance with the presence of olive pigment in the skin.

Representatives of the "summer" type can have both light and thin skin (perhaps even porcelain), and olive. No need to use shades with a high gray content on the eyebrows, as the graphite shade will prevail.

The skin of the “winter” type is pale, as if it lacks color (blue undertone). Therefore, all shades of gray on the eyebrows can give off blue, and the use of lip pigments containing a lot of blue (lilac-pink, fuchsia) often turn into an earthy lilac or cyanotic.

It is important to understand that a warm skin tone always suggests a cool hair tone. Cool skin tone ALWAYS suggests warm hair tone. In this case, the color of the eyes is only intended to further balance the overall impression, to give greater harmony. And if the skin is more of a neutral, balanced shade that is difficult to classify, then the hair and eyes will also have a color that is difficult to determine. Knowledge of this law allows you to more correctly classify the color category of a person, even if his hair is dyed and colored lenses are in front of his eyes. Although it is generally accepted that natural tanning does not fundamentally affect the change in skin tone, nevertheless, it is often misleading about the nature of a given undertone. We can only advise you to pay attention to those parts of the body that never sunbathe. It is they who are able to show the real picture.

Appearance characteristics

In the process of determining the individual natural coloring of appearance, characteristics such as hue, brightness and saturation of various colors in relation to your skin, eyes and hair are considered. It is possible to single out the dominant characteristic of appearance: light or deep, soft or contrasting, warm or cold.

• Light type: spring or summer
• Deep type: winter or autumn
• Soft type: summer or autumn
• Contrast type: winter or spring
• Warm type: autumn or spring
• Cold type: winter or summer

With such a gradation, each season is repeated three times, that is, it can have three dominants. However, only one of the three dominant characteristics is primary. It is she who determines the basic color palette. Complementary colors are determined based on secondary and tertiary characteristics. Modern color analysis classifies a person's appearance in a certain season or color, based on the result of mixing these three pigments.

Coloring (Italian colorito, from Latin color - “color”) - composition, consistency, combination of colors (tones of the chromatic series) that are in harmony with each other. It is natural, real color - the most harmonious, most correct and suitable. The best choice for a person is a choice based on the natural data of appearance. It is necessary to take this feature into account when choosing a direction in permanent makeup. Decorative makeup gives a temporary effect and is used to create an image for a specific style for a specific purpose (evening, wedding, for photo shoots, etc.), while permanent makeup should first of all be natural, because it exists along with natural color over many months and years.

Do not forget about the brightness, saturation and contrast of the selected shades. Bright colors used in make-up should not be used in PM! It looks unnatural, and often even ridiculous.

Color saturation is the quality of purity, clarity of chromatic (color) tone. It is determined by the absence of impurities of other tones. Therefore, the primary colors of the spectrum are more saturated: red, blue and yellow. The least saturated achromatic tones are black and white, so they have the maximum ability to absorb the tones of the chromatic series. Adding black or white to a hue reduces its saturation.

Luminance is the quality of color or chromatic tone, which is determined by the combination of saturation and lightness. For example, dark tones - blue and violet - have visual depth and, therefore, have significant saturation; light ones - yellow and orange, on the contrary, they have less depth and saturation, but greater brightness.

Lightness is a qualitative characteristic of tone. In the achromatic (black and white) tone scale, this pattern is most evident: from the lightest - white tone to deep black. The lightest are yellow and orange tones of the spectrum, red and green are classified as medium, blue and purple are the darkest. In addition, each color tone can vary in lightness by changing its saturation, that is, by adding white or black.

Based on such a detailed study of appearance, we can draw a conclusion for subsequent modifications and modeling of appearance.

Appearance modeling

Modeling (from Italian. modellatura) - giving the necessary form according to a given model or according to the image in the artist's imagination.

Each master sets priorities in his own way: someone pays more attention to medical aspects, someone to the execution technique, some believe that it is necessary to be an artist, etc., many believe that the PM procedure is definitely decorative. Of course, permanent makeup includes a combination of all these parameters. But no matter how technically the procedure is performed, if the harmony of the image is violated, the shape or color is incorrectly selected, few people will appreciate the quality of the performance. After all, our main spectators and judges are our clients!