Lip Correction Techniques: Theory and Practice of Permanent Makeup

Undoubtedly, permanent makeup can be a solution both from an aesthetic point of view and for congenital defects and injuries of the lips. However, care must be taken in choosing the corrective action. It should be remembered that the result of permanent makeup lasts for a long time, and the removal of unsuccessful work is an expensive and time-consuming process.

Human lips have a complex geometric shape, so working with them is always interesting. Permanent lip make-up is a delicate work, jewelry, which depends on the professional experience and intuition of the master, knowledge and understanding of facial geometry, as well as artistic vision. With the help of paints, you can change not only the color of the lips, but also the shape. And choosing the right shape, in turn, can even solve the problem of raising or lowering the oval of the face.

Lip correction techniques

There are well-known methods of correction in permanent lip makeup.

The main changes in the shape of the lips:

• lip reduction;
• adding fullness to the lips;
• smoothing the asymmetry of the lips.

The influence of the selected color on the volume of the lips:

• the use of light and dark colors on the lips (the interaction of color rules);
• obtaining additional volume on light and dark lips (glare, accents).

Lips can be given expression by changing the pattern of the lips in the corners:

• laughing - lifting the corners;
• whining, sad - lowering the corners.

To reduce the lips, a clear contour is drawn and they are densely painted over inside. To enlarge the lips, the contour is rearranged above the natural one, capturing the skin above the upper or lower lip, depending on which lip needs correction. To perform permanent makeup of the lips in volume, you can resort to the use of highlights: on the upper lip - in the area of the proboscis, on the lower - on the tubercles of the lips.

Facial geometry: what to consider

To create a beautiful lip contour and fullness of color, it is not enough to follow only the basic knowledge of makeup. Always take into account the general geometry of the face, as well as the principles of harmonious combination of all its forms and the technique of introducing pigment under the skin.

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the center line that runs through the middle of the nose and chin. The tip of the nose, for example, in women more often “looks” to the right, and if the angle of rotation of the nose is pronounced, this will affect visual perception. It may seem to the client that his lips are displaced.

Do not forget about mimic activity in the lip area, which also affects the shape. For example, the effect of a skewed mouth, in which one side of the lips is raised and the other is clearly lowered. If the asymmetry is pronounced, immediately draw the attention of the client to it and agree on which part of the face you will start from when working with the new shape. After all, diverting attention from one shortcoming, you can attract it to another, much more conspicuous.

The definition of changes should be performed in a state of physiological rest of the client's face.

Ideal lips are characterized by the same size of the upper and lower lips, not too thick and not too thin. Color - smooth, light red.

Consider some of the difficult situations that the master has to face in the work of applying permanent lip makeup.

Natural effect without a clear lip contour

The task of such work is to make the PM of the lips more expressive, using only the reception of color rendering. To achieve the "naturel" effect, the natural shape of the lips is not changed. If the border of the permanent makeup of the lips is different, then when direct sunlight falls, the difference between the old and new borders will be very noticeable both in profile and full face.

Lips can be more or less defined - it depends on the preferences of the client. The main thing is that as a result of this technique, the effect of “eaten lipstick” is not created. To avoid this, it is better to choose the colors of the pigment exactly in tone or slightly lighter than natural ones.

We start work with a contour. To complete the basting contour, you will need a single-pronged needle. The basting contour is a reciprocating movement aimed at fixing the sketch on the skin. It is performed in the same way as applying the main contour, only with zero pressure and a fast speed of hand movement along the skin. This will allow you to get a smooth, but desaturated line. It can be fixed with the main fixing line in the second pass. Remember that the contour line should be very thin and neat, uniform in color and width.

Then we change the needle to any one that is convenient for painting over. The natural color of the lips lies in its transparency. Therefore, Flat or Magnum needles will be preferable here, since they are the ones who apply the pigment in thin layers. Do not overload the skin with color. It is enough to perform 3-4 passes for a complete shading.

Be sure to keep the skin tight! The most common mistakes after healing, such as unevenly placed color, spots and even a complete lack of color, are most often the result of not following the correct tension of the skin and fixing it in a small area of \u200b\u200bwork. Do not try to stretch the entire upper or lower lip as a whole. If you divide the lips into sections of 1–1.5 cm, it will be easier to fix the tension.

lipstick effect

Most often, permanent lip makeup with shading is best combined with a clearly colored contour, or the contour is made to match the shading. Shading is performed both on the red border area and stretched over the entire surface of the lips. This method is used to change the color, volume, shape, relief of its own shape.

To perform the contour in this technique, needles 1, 3 and 5RL are suitable. The more needles in the bundle, the wider, fatter the contour line and the denser its color. It will take more effort to insert a large number of needles under the skin - but not the pressure of the master! This applies only to the capabilities of the device.

Unfortunately, many masters still use low-quality Chinese "pens" in their work, which injure the skin more due to the lack of power in them. Using such equipment, move slowly and insert the needle under the skin at a sharper angle.

The number of passes along the contour is 2-3. For a more pronounced contour, you can take a darker or more saturated color in the palette.

Lip shading can be done with rounds (R - round), magnums ( Magnum) from 5 needles per solder. The technique of movements can be spiral or zigzag when working with beam needles. Flat needles correspond to lingering or short movements, reminiscent of working with a flat brush.

What technique to choose?

If there is still little experience, it is better to use one color in the work. The polisher needs to learn to predict the result by analyzing the "healed" colors of one or more companies in your professional arsenal. It is necessary to study the behavior of color on different skin, gradations obtained using needles of different configurations.

A specialist with sufficient experience and knowledge can try to work in layers, applying one color to another, or mixing several colors at the same time. Using this technique, you can neutralize the natural cold tint of the lips or fix an old permanent makeup job. After - apply the desired shade of any selected color.

Perhaps this is the most colorful type of permanent lip makeup, which involves the use of color highlights to give relief to the lips. When color modeling the shape of the lips using this technique, the specialist must take into account the individual structure and the proportional relationship of the geometry of the face. If the lips are dominated by width, the corners of the upper lip should stretch upwards - this may be the shape of a bow, the lower lip should be highlighted diagonally, tapering to the bottom of the lip, and the corners of the lips should be darkened.

In the 3D permanent lip makeup technique, color highlights can be applied not only to the red border of the lips, but also in the form of a light kayal above or below the contour. You can also highlight the corners of the mouth or wrinkles above the upper lip. All these techniques visually highlight the lips and rejuvenate the face.

Choice of pigment color

This is the most interesting part of the PM master's work. The color is selected according to the following criteria.

When performing permanent lip makeup, you can limit yourself to applying a contour, or you can try various shading options, made by two-thirds or half of the red border, or completely fill the surface of the lips. Proceed from the original goals: to give brightness or relief to the lips, change the color, increase or decrease the volume. The use of different methods of applying permanent makeup allows the lips to look natural, merging with natural colors, or, conversely, decorative.

First determine: you want a dense lip color or transparent. For the first, pigments of a denser texture are suitable, with a large proportion of coloring matter. Then you should exclude colors that will not suit the client due to the presence of complementary shades regarding her skin color, teeth, pigmentation in the application area or other unaesthetic defects.

Now it remains to determine the temperature of the desired color in accordance with the color of the lips. If you are not sure what to determine correctly, take calm shades, with a reddish-orange base. This will avoid possible blue in the healed work.

There is another interesting trick: if the lips have their own cold tone, contour with a warm shade of pigment. As a result, the lips will become more juicy.

Try adapting makeup techniques in permanent makeup. The contour of the lips should be the color of the contour of healthy lips (red-brown), while it does not matter at all which primary color is chosen for painting. And if you use a warmed pink color, then the effect of swelling of the lips will be created.

You need to choose the color wisely, after analyzing the trend of its change after complete healing: too bright will seem defiant, cold colors will cast blue-violet hues, but the mother-of-pearl effect can only be used by clients with perfect lips and even skin color.