On the shelves: modeling different oval shapes of the face

Alesya Kuzmenok, makeup artist for television projects and Ukrainian Fashion Week shows, multiple winner of the Ukrainian Makeup Championship

Facial modeling is the elaboration of the shape and details of the face using light and shadow techniques. The basic rule is to highlight those forms that should be emphasized and darken the imperfections. In makeup, there are three types of face modeling: dry, oily and mixed.

Products for modeling the oval face

To model an oval, you will need a foundation that ideally matches your skin color, a concealer (corrector) that is a lighter tone, and a highlighter. And also compact powder one tone darker than the main tone. All the light colors are applied first, and then the dark shades.

Using modeling, you can lighten circles under the eyes and the inner corner of the eye, the depression on the chin, nasolabial folds, the fold between the eyebrows or on the forehead. To do this, use a concealer that is a shade lighter than your skin tone.

Concealer is a tinting agent with a high content of antisulfur pigment (removes gray nuances). The product is available compact, in the form of a stick, and liquid - in a tube. Liquid concealer is used under the eyes and on the upper eyelid, as the skin in this area is very thin and delicate. Rule: the thinner the skin, the lighter the texture of the product should be.

Then light highlights are added with a highlighter, which, unlike its brilliant colleagues (meaning shimmer, bronzer, luminizer, glitter), does not necessarily have to give the face a glow. Its task is to use reflective particles to lighten dark areas of the face in order to correct its relief, hide wrinkles and give a fresh look, as well as rejuvenate the face and create a glossy effect, which is very relevant today. The texture of the highlighter can be different: crumbly, creamy, compact or liquid. For aging makeup, it is better to use a liquid highlighter.

Highlighter is used in the following areas:

• on the zygomatic tuberosities (the highest point of the zygomatic bone);
• in the inner corners of the eyes: “spaces out” close-set eyes, making them more expressive;
• under and above the eyebrow: emphasizes the shape of the eyebrows and optically lifts them, opens the eyes;
• above the upper lip: gives it volume and relief;
• on the sides of the forehead: emphasizes the relief, visually makes the forehead higher;
• on the bridge of the nose in the form of a thin strip in the central part: corrects the shape of the nose.

Next comes the stage of powdering the face with loose powder: it will fix the foundation and provide the basis for further work with dry dark corrector powders. Cream-based corrector products should be used after applying foundation, outlining the areas of future shadow with a synthetic brush. You also need to blend everything smoothly. And then fix it with transparent transparent powder to preserve the result for a long time.

Proper application of blush is of no small importance in creating a beautiful oval face. Today there are several varieties of blush - powder, gel, cream, loose and liquid.

The right blush can make you look several years younger. The main thing is to find a suitable shade and apply blush to the right places. A good choice is pastel shades of pink, which “erase” age from the face.

For several seasons in a row, blushes in natural shades – pastel pink, light beige and peach – have been considered the most popular. The most versatile are powder blushes, suitable for any skin type. They do not dry out and do not add excess shine. Apply with a natural oval brush. You can also use gel blush for all skin types - they will not “run” and will retain their bright color until the evening. For dry skin, choose blush in a stick or in the form of a mousse; apply it with your fingertips after applying foundation. And if your skin is oily or combination, it is better not to use blush with glitter.

To achieve a professional result in correcting the oval of the face, you need to use light and dark blush.

Modeling different face shapes

So, working with an elongated and rectangular face, we darken the upper and lower parts (forehead and bottom of the chin). Apply blush horizontally from the outer corner of the eye to the earlobe. Or we put a spot of color located in the center of the front part (Baby Doll). This method is more interesting and relevant.

Long face

Rectangular face

A round face needs to be visually lengthened by reducing the volume of the cheeks. We use dark powder on the sides near the ear, temple hollows, and lighten the bottom of the chin. Apply blush from the middle of the cheekbone up to the temple.

A square and trapezoidal face will become more delicate if you darken the corners of the lower jaw with a slight transition to the cheek area. We apply blush high on the cheekbones and it’s good when the color spot turns out to be bright enough.

A diamond-shaped face is distinguished by prominent cheekbones, which need to be smoothed out a little, darkened with dark powder. We put a light highlight on the forehead and chin, apply blush at the level of the outer corners of the eyes in the form of triangles.

A triangular face is characterized by a narrow chin and wide forehead. Apply dark powder to the upper part of the face (along the hairline) and cheekbones. We use light blush on the highest point of the cheekbones, blending down from the cheekbone.

Remember: dark tones visually narrow, reduce, and light tones create an accent. This way you can visually change the shape of your face, create a small, neat nose or a chiseled chin, or hide the effect of a double chin.

The material was first published in MAKEUP&YOU Professional magazine.