How to lighten hair correctly: rules for healthy curls
Colorists need to know this
Creating the perfect blonde while maintaining the health and integrity of the hair is aerobatics, as the experts say. But what determines whether the hair will remain healthy after dyeing or not?
Tatyana Solomonova , colorist, technologist TM BES, champion of Ukraine (2016, 2019)
There are a number of conditions and rules for effectively working with blonde, which we will analyze sequentially.
Hair diagnostics
Correct hair diagnosis is the key to the success of beautiful coloring. Many masters use diagnostic cards. In order to create the correct algorithm of work, you must collect an anamnesis of your client. Diagnostics can take from 10 to 40 minutes or more.
What should you know when diagnosing?
- UGT is the level of depth of tone of natural hair.
- Color according to hair length.
- How did the client dye his hair at home or in the salon?
- Has the client done Botox, keratin, oil home wraps, does he have henna, basma or tonics on his hair?
- What home care.
- Check hair for strength, elasticity, porosity, determine the percentage of gray hair, if any.
- Determine the condition of the scalp.
- Make test strands.
Choosing a product for coloring
After diagnosis, you need to choose the right product for the job. It can be a cream dye, bleach powder, oil or paste. The choice of product should depend on the client’s wishes and the capabilities of his hair (condition).
The main thing is not to forget that any hair has a certain reserve and cannot always withstand an aggressive load on the hair, this is why we do test strands that will show us what is in the hair and what condition it is in after bleaching.
Rules for working with blonde
When working with blonde, you must know the technical characteristics of the product, its capabilities and the degree of stress on the hair. Work with plexes, they will help you maintain the structure of the client's hair. You should also know hair lightening backgrounds and how to work with them. Use only professional cosmetics before and after coloring in the salon, and also recommend care that your client can use at home to maintain hair color and quality.
Observe the time it takes for lightening products to sit on your hair, because after it expires, the powder stops its work of bleaching and begins to dry the hair from the inside, drawing moisture out of it.
In any case, no matter what algorithm of work you choose, you must have knowledge and understanding of what you are doing and why. Never take on a job that you don’t know how to do, otherwise this can lead to disastrous consequences for your client’s hair: in addition to spots and streaks, it can simply break and fall off.