How to cut curly hair?

In this article, experts will share their experience and talk about the features of cutting curls. Girls who are not only curly, but also naturally curly, sign up for a curly hair cut at their curling studio.

Valentina Antonenko , co-owner of the beauty salon "Valentina Antonenko's Curl Studio", former technologist, teacher, organizer of the International Club of Hairdressers, organizer of seminars and master classes in Ukraine and abroad, winner of championships and competitions, co-organizer of a large online platform for communication between specialists hairdressing, practicing master with over 37 years of experience, specialist in the field of hair curling

Alexander Antonenko , co-owner of the Beauty House beauty salon, director of the beauty salon "Valentina Antonenko's Curl Studio", organizer of seminars and master classes in Ukraine and abroad for the Hairdressers Club, administrator and developer of Ukraine's first professional website for hairdressers Perukar.org (now Volosy.org), practicing master with more than 10 years of experience, leading hair curling specialist

Haircut shape

Curly hair looks advantageous in different versions of graduated haircuts and haircuts in layers (cascades). Exceptions are possible for very thin, sparse hair, where massive forms may be appropriate. On long, thick and dense hair, we often use disconnection.

Elaboration

Curls need to learn to feel, to understand where elaboration is needed and where not. If elaboration is needed, then what tools are best to work with and what technique to use? Thick hair almost always needs work, thin hair rarely does. The tool can be varied: thinning scissors with rare teeth, a thinning razor, straight scissors.

You can work your hair with a straight cloth using channel cutting, pointcut, and sometimes slicing techniques. All tools are good, the main thing is to learn to feel the texture.

Should I cut my hair before or after the curl?

Our opinion: before and after. If the shape for future curls has already been created, the haircut can be safely done after curling. In cases where the haircut shape is massive, it is better to make a suitable shape before curling and, if necessary, clean it after the procedure.

There are several approaches to cutting curly hair

1) On damp hair, cutting can be done on curls of any degree of curl.

2) On dry, pre-styled hair using a diffuser. This haircut is suitable for clients who wear their hair exclusively in a natural curly state. With this approach we can refresh the ends, provided that the main shape is done in the previous haircut.

3) On dry, brushed hair, a haircut is performed if the client wears not only curls, but also straightened hair. In this case, after the main work - creating the shape - we work out the structure on dry, stretched hair.

4) On dry hair, straightened with an iron. Usually it is enough to straighten your hair with a brush. In rare cases, when we are working with very thin and sparse hair with a slight degree of curl, it makes sense to use a straightening iron.

Total straightening with a straightening iron is also pointless if there is a strong degree of curliness, because during such a procedure the individual “habits” of the hair are lost. Pulling should not be forced, because you should be able to slightly adjust the haircut by feeling the movement of the hair. Regardless of the approach to cutting curls, the hairdresser must cut it in such a way that the client can wear the haircut without the daily painful styling.

The article was first published in the Fashion Mirror magazine No. 2/2017