How does hair porosity affect the coloring process?
Please note
Hair porosity is a factor that affects both the dyeing process and the final result. Let's understand the concept of “porous hair” and how not to work with porous hair.
Natalie Silchenko , technologist TM BES ITALY, former teacher at the Arsen Dekusar hairdressing school, who took a fundamental color course from the art director of BES ITALY Saverio Palma (Milan, Italy)
It's no secret that hair porosity can affect the coloring process. Today I would like to talk about this particular point, because difficulties often arise with this during the work process.
What definition can be given to the concept of “porosity”? Hair porosity is the ability of hair to absorb moisture. The degree of porosity is directly related to the condition of the hair cuticle. Healthy hair with tightly fitting cuticle layers is resistant to the penetration of any chemicals and is called hydrophobic (that is, it repels moisture).
The surface of such hair is smooth, reflects light and the hair shines. In porous hair, on the contrary, the cuticle layer is raised or completely absent, the hair is matte, easily absorbs moisture and is considered hydrophilic (absorbs moisture well).
Too porous hair is like a sponge - it can absorb more moisture than required.
Undoubtedly, the porosity of the hair affects the dyeing process, and you may notice that on porous hair the color may appear darker and denser, apply unevenly, “fall through” or even wash off after several head washes.
It is important to find an approach to porous hair and understand how to work with such a structure.
To avoid color dips and uneven coverage of the hair, you can use nourishing masks and conditioner, which will help fill voids and unevenness in the hair, so that later the color goes on more evenly and there are no dips or excessive darkening.
With porous hair, it is not recommended to use aggressive products; there is no need to bleach at too high a percentage of OXY, since any bleaching makes such hair even more porous.
I would still recommend working with dyes on such curls, as they have a more favorable effect on the quality of the hair. And, of course, don’t forget about home care, nourishing and moisturizing your hair.