Hidden coloring: what is it and who is it suitable for?

The colorist tells

2020-06-04
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What is hidden coloring, why do it, and which clients might it be suitable for? Our permanent expert answers these and more questions.

Have your clients ever had a time when they wanted to change their image, but due to indecision or circumstances, they could not afford a bright colorful coloring?

Fortunately, coloristics has found a solution to all customer problems and requests regarding coloring. So, for those who like bright colors, but “under cover” there is hidden coloring.

Hidden coloring is a coloring technique that can be used to create bright strands or even a whole canvas of a colorful shade under the main body of hair so that they are not visible until the client loosens or collects the hair in a ponytail or bun (depending on where the staining was done). Our regular expert Alexey Baluev told us a little more about the technique.

Alexey Baluev , art director of LONG & SHORT beauty salon and co-founder of LONG & SHORT hair academy, as well as winner in the “Colorist” category of the international Stella award

Hidden staining refers to block staining. Block coloring comes from Italy. Italians are a little lazy when it comes to coloring, but very smart, and such coloring allows you to quickly diversify the client’s image.

This is a cool alternative when you can add an interesting color nuance or a bright accent to the classic salon coloring to make the client’s image more interesting and unusual.

That is why it is called hidden because it is invisible behind the general mass of hair and comes out only when we see the hair in texture or when the client collects the hair.

This is a rather convenient solution for office employees who, due to their duties, cannot wear any bright accents, although they really want to. And hidden coloring is an excellent alternative, because when going to a party, for example, you can put your hair in a ponytail or bun and show off your bright “hidden” highlights.

Typically, these color blocks are performed in the occipital or temporal areas. But there is a certain specificity of such coloring so that it looks harmonious and non-sticky.

Lately my clients love and ask for hidden coloring. They either cannot afford or are afraid to paint themselves completely bright. Moreover, not only teenagers, but also accomplished adults try this type of coloring, because it is very practical and convenient.

The meaning of this technique is as follows. According to certain schemes, we select a block that will be covered by the main tone of the hair, after which it will not be visible. Then we desaturate this block. Why do we bleach it? Because such coloring is performed mainly with the help of direct pigments, and they need to be applied only to bleach hair. And then in two applications of paint (horizontal and vertical) a bright color gradient is created.

It can be a single-color bright block or a combination of several shades. At one time, hidden dyeing in the form of a “rainbow” was very popular, when seven colors could be seen behind the bulk of the hair. Now there is a much larger number of different combinations that are successfully used by masters.

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